Yea, one of my first complaints was that it wasn't adjustable... till someone else pointed out that sub-menu.
I put it in My Menu, I don't have to adjust too often, but its useful if you have to switch between stopping movement with my kids, or keeping ISO down for a landscape. I agree it would be nice for Nikon to surface this setting a little more.
Also, maybe you knew this but it confused me at first coming from Sony anyway. In Auto ISO the back dial will change ISO but it won't go out of Auto mode (I'm not really sure what the point in unless it sets a bias?) But anyway the front dial acts as an On-Off switch for "Auto". So if you're in Auto and want to get to a fixed ISO 64 etc, make sure you switch off Auto.
Ulff wrote:
That's it, thanks a lot, Matt! I missed the sub menu and didn't expected it there! Now I only need to find a way to change this setting fast depending on whether I use IBIS or not.
I found the setting and liked it immediately when I first set-up the camera - but then I never found it again. Coming from Canon, this feature is worth a lot to me in contrast to having a fixed algorithm to determine the "best" minimal exposure time before going up with the ISO. Canon always worked with 1/focal length(*crop factor) as the minimum exposure time, which was okay with lower MP-cameras. They didn't changed it although with the 50MP 5Ds, where I'm not able to get sharp shots under most conditions with this formula. To get reliable exposure I need at least 1/80s, better 1/100s for a 50mm lens. This behavior made using the AV mode with AutoISO almost useless. I never understood why there weren't more complains about this or firmware changes. Nikon solved this much better.
Mathieu18 wrote:
Also, maybe you knew this but it confused me at first coming from Sony anyway. In Auto ISO the back dial will change ISO but it won't go out of Auto mode (I'm not really sure what the point in unless it sets a bias?) But anyway the front dial acts as an On-Off switch for "Auto". So if you're in Auto and want to get to a fixed ISO 64 etc, make sure you switch off Auto.
This confused me too, but only the first two times, now I'm used to it. The thinking behind this feature is probably that you can get back faster to the ISO you set before you changed to AutoISO.
Ulff wrote:
That's it, thanks a lot, Matt! I missed the sub menu and didn't expected it there! Now I only need to find a way to change this setting fast depending on whether I use IBIS or not.
Hi, Markus, you are very welcome.
I also look forward to Canon to Nikon Z adapter as I have the same issue with focus direction with Nikon since I am multi-system user with Leica.
As for ISO setting, I think you might already know that you can hit ISO button and release it, within a few sec, you can use front wheel to select Auto ISO or not, use back wheel to select your minimal ISO used within AUTO ISO. (So, you are still with AUTOISO, just ISO start from ISOxxx you selected than ISO64) You can also setting which wheel do which based on your like.
For example, if you want freeze movement, you can change your minimal ISO from ISO64 to any other ISO (I used ISO400 most of time even for small aperture landscape shooting for sharpness as it has better DR than any ISO between 200 and 400 with duel gain tech).
I put IBIS in my Q menu, so I can disable it fast. I put AUTO ISO setting in 'my menu' in case I want change the minimal shutter speed, however, as mentioned above, I seldom need do that given I can disable autoISO or just change minimal ISO on fly.
Edit, since this image thread. add one
24-70 in square
zhangyue wrote:
As for ISO setting, I think you might already know that you can hit ISO button and release it, within a few sec, you can use front wheel to select Auto ISO or not, use back wheel to select your minimal ISO used within AUTO ISO. (So, you are still with AUTOISO, just ISO start from ISOxxx you selected than ISO64) You can also setting which wheel do which based on your like.
For example, if you want freeze movement, you can change your minimal ISO from ISO64 to any other ISO (I used ISO400 most of time even for small aperture landscape shooting for sharpness as it has better DR than any ISO between 200 and 400 with duel gain tech). ...Show more →
I know about the possibility but couldn't imagine an application for this feature. I always try to keep ISO as low as possible - and in your example (with not enough light) I would prefer M-mode with aperture and exposure set in combination with AutoISO (in cases where more light is needed). Not perfect either when the light is getting unexpected too bright and base-ISO is not sufficient, but this way my ISO stays as low as possible.
Ulff wrote:
I know about the possibility but couldn't imagine an application for this feature. I always try to keep ISO as low as possible - and in your example (with not enough light) I would prefer M-mode with aperture and exposure set in combination with AutoISO (in cases where more light is needed). Not perfect either when the light is getting unexpected too bright and base-ISO is not sufficient, but this way my ISO stays as low as possible. http://www.paintingwithlight.de/FilesEx/z7_07.jpg
(Z7 + 24-70 f4, composite of 2 images)
That is a killer shot well composed. I like it a lot.
I understand your preference. The way I described is much faster on fly than either go to change auto ISO setting in menu or change to M mode adjust shutter and aperture.
The key is you want keep autoISO, but want a faster shutter speed than your autoISO setting for whatever reason quickly on fly without enter menu.
For example, I hiking with my kids in national park, I might prefer keep ISO as low as ISO64 and use IBIS for as slow as 1/10S handhold for landscape, but if I want a quick portrait of my family, or I want freeze leaf movement for certain shot, I might just quickly boost ISO to 400 or 800 and make a few shots and come back on fly
And there is another subtlety: by directly setting ISO to 400, you forgo autoISO from 160 upto 400, which all have DR below than ISO400 per Nikon Z7's duel gain design. Unless, there is need for specific shutter speed, there is no loss but all gain.
Sometime after sunset or before sunrise, the lighting change quite fast, if I am at high pace shooting need change location, composition or aperture quick, I will not set myself to M mode for Nikon Camera. (Leica is different as I have direct access for both aperture and shutter speed without relying viewing on LCD or EVF). I might want play ISO, shutter speed and aperture or all. Change minimal ISO is the fastest way for me to play to optimize both IQ(DR) and hand hold-ability (Sharpness) on fly fast.
Here are a few images I believe are all take this way with ISO64 or ISO400 on fly. (I may or may not be in AutoISO depend on situation)
Which ones? From memory, standard with sharpening and clarity turn up a little. Auto iso, auto WB.....NR and anything related to hdr turned off. Center point focus mostly.
I have been looking for a smaller, lightweight telephoto for travel...as I adore my Nikkor 200-500, but it is a bazooka to walk around and hike with. I thought I would try the 70-300 af-p fx lens on the Z6. Received it today and took it out for some random shots this evening. First impressions are really good. It is light, fairly compact (even with the adapter), focuses quickly and is sharp throughout the range...at least during my unscientific few hours with it thus far! Looking forward to giving it more time this weekend.
zhangyue wrote:
That is a killer shot well composed. I like it a lot.
I understand your preference. The way I described is much faster on fly than either go to change auto ISO setting in menu or change to M mode adjust shutter and aperture.
The key is you want keep autoISO, but want a faster shutter speed than your autoISO setting for whatever reason quickly on fly without enter menu.
For example, I hiking with my kids in national park, I might prefer keep ISO as low as ISO64 and use IBIS for as slow as 1/10S handhold for landscape, but if I want a quick portrait of my family, or I want freeze leaf movement for certain shot, I might just quickly boost ISO to 400 or 800 and make a few shots and come back on fly
And there is another subtlety: by directly setting ISO to 400, you forgo autoISO from 160 upto 400, which all have DR below than ISO400 per Nikon Z7's duel gain design. Unless, there is need for specific shutter speed, there is no loss but all gain.
Sometime after sunset or before sunrise, the lighting change quite fast, if I am at high pace shooting need change location, composition or aperture quick, I will not set myself to M mode for Nikon Camera. (Leica is different as I have direct access for both aperture and shutter speed without relying viewing on LCD or EVF). I might want play ISO, shutter speed and aperture or all. Change minimal ISO is the fastest way for me to play to optimize both IQ(DR) and hand hold-ability (Sharpness) on fly fast.
Here are a few images I believe are all take this way with ISO64 or ISO400 on fly. (I may or may not be in AutoISO depend on situation)
Certainly not the greatest Astro shot, but wanted to test the 20mm 1.8 Nikkor with the FTZ adapter and Z6 tonight, as a lightning storm marched across Lake Superior. BTW...lens works great!
Just received an adapter for my beloved Canon FD 50mm 1.4 and am very pleased with the first few shots! It may seem like a weird idea, but I may send back the 50 1.8 S, considering I have the excellent 24-70 S!
Just received an adapter for my beloved Canon FD 50mm 1.4 and am very pleased with the first few shots! It may seem like a weird idea, but I may send back the 50 1.8 S, considering I have the excellent 24-70 S!
I missed the sub menu and didn't expected it there! Now I only need to find a way to change this setting fast depending on whether I use IBIS or not.
