ufdlim wrote:
This is the same case for me. I've never had the opportunity to calibrate the EVF relative to what I KNOW was in focus so I feel like using a MF lens with slightly bad vision (-0.75) makes it impossible for me to make tack sharp shots. Usually I resort to magnify, but many situations don't allow you to have this much time.
I must be an idiot. I calibrate the EVF to maximal sharpness of the numbers, letters, etc in the viewfinder/EVF. Isn't that the right way to do it?
I second the Ona Bowery. It and the Brixton are my non backpack bags that get any use. They are high quality and in leather, they pass for “man purses” rather than screaming camera bag. The Bowery is small and I use it for a camera with lens attached and a second lens. The Brixton is much larger and will hold a camera and I carry it with up to five lenses tho prefer it to be a camera and three lenses. I often travel with this bag and it will hold my iPad in addition to the camera nd lenses on the plane. Always carry these across the shoulder for both security and to save my shoulder. Really nice bags tho not cheap.
xpfloyd wrote:
Thanks. I ended up just purchasing a Mirrorless mover 10 as I really like the 5. I forgot to factor in that I use a half case but it still works out ok
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Chainring wrote:
Mirrorless Mover 10 works great with my a7R2 and CV 40 with hood. It's snug, but not overly so.
I agree. I also use the Think Tank Mover 10 to carry my 40/1.2 Nokton. Great bag.
Neurad1 wrote:
I must be an idiot. I calibrate the EVF to maximal sharpness of the numbers, letters, etc in the viewfinder/EVF. Isn't that the right way to do it?
That's a good place to start. But I don't think there's any guarantee the graphics and the image are in the same plane. I will fine tune the diopter on the viewfinder image.
FotograafNL wrote:
Can anybody help me my questions one page back please?
Is is wise to buy a M version (obviously to gain auto focus with the Techart Pro adapter)?
You might try the search thread function here to see if you can find the answers (try "TAP" as well as "Techart"). Seems like most people commenting here have the FE version.
From what I've seen, the VM version has more significant field curvature on FE bodies, which results in worse bokeh at the corners mostly. You also lose the electronic connection, which relays f-stop, focal length (for IBIS), and focusing (for auto-magnify and focus dial). I think TAP defaults to 40mm though, so maybe IBIS will work fine.
I've also read about less than perfect experiences with TAP in general. The battery drain issue and developing wobble are two. Sounds like AF is ok, but not on level with native lenses (Eye-AF and other focusing can depend on which camera body you have). I also hate how the AF motor sticks down below the camera body.
For those reasons, I went with the FE version and I still feel like it was a good decision.
It’s disappointing that DxO PhotoLab doesn’t have a lens profile for this lens, or from what I can tell for any Voigtlander. Makes it that much harder to make the switch from LR. Not impossible of course, but their lens modules have been pretty useful to me.
FotograafNL wrote:
Can anybody help me my questions one page back please?
Is is wise to buy a M version (obviously to gain auto focus with the Techart Pro adapter)?
I think the lack of reply is due to the topic already being extensively hashed out earlier in the thread.
I believe my earliest posts about it are around page 80. Hope that helps.
@grahamgibson provides a pretty good summary. However, I will say that between the TAP and Fotodiox Pronto adapters, I have yet to experience the wobbling.
As far as AF goes, it is all dependent on the shooter. If you’re willing to accept the caveats and adjust to the setup to maximize your success with it, it is a very helpful tool over MF depending on what you’re shooting.
There’s a lot of guys around these parts that will talk about how good one can be with MF. If you’re not sure you’ll be one of those people (even with practice), it might be a good idea to go with the VM version if you have to have the lens.
grahamgibson wrote:
You might try the search thread function here to see if you can find the answers (try "TAP" as well as "Techart"). Seems like most people commenting here have the FE version.
From what I've seen, the VM version has more significant field curvature on FE bodies, which results in worse bokeh at the corners mostly. You also lose the electronic connection, which relays f-stop, focal length (for IBIS), and focusing (for auto-magnify and focus dial). I think TAP defaults to 40mm though, so maybe IBIS will work fine.
I've also read about less than perfect experiences with TAP in general. The battery drain issue and developing wobble are two. Sounds like AF is ok, but not on level with native lenses (Eye-AF and other focusing can depend on which camera body you have). I also hate how the AF motor sticks down below the camera body.
For those reasons, I went with the FE version and I still feel like it was a good decision....Show more →
I did search already but only found 1 user who had both who was pretty happy with how it worked with TAP. So that's not my definition of heavenly discussed (at least not based on experiences). And because it's not a cheap lens..
But i'm very happy you took the time to reply.
The field curvature is the thing i most worry about. That's something i'm curious for to hear from people who use it / see how bad it actually is. Setting the focal length for IBIS is extra work indeed, but oke.. Curious if you are right about that default focal length. There's really not much to find about this combo.
Auto magnify can be solved easy with my custom button (c2 in my case). The "which relays f stop" part i don't understand, sorry. Does the Av program still work correctly? I guess it also misses a camera raw profile. How bad is that i wonder. I don't have experience with lenses like this.
I guess i'd have to disconnect the TAP in the bag for the battery issue if these things can't be solved through updates.
The AF motor is just in line with my Sunway bracket i think.
The things i'm worried about is: will TAP keep working, how bad is the field curvature (and other errors??), the noise of the motor (can i use it during a ceremony; typical a situation you want AF).
Difficult decision. I don't have other M mount lenses. Photograph pretty all round and like to use it for my free work / travels as well. But mostly for portraits with surroundings. The wide aperture is a big plus over my Batis f2, which is beautiful but i find find disappointing in that aspect. These portraits are situations that i have control, but still.. photographing somebody from a low angle for instance. And i guess i have to refocus after each little pose change.
Despite the missing auto magnifier i can still use it very well (with all the Sony help) as a MF lens don't i? So the only issue is: how bad is the lesser IQ at the wide apertures?
@JohnDizzo15: can you be more specific about what you mean with "adjust to the setup to maximize your success with it"?
If i will buy this M version i will probably use it in AF-s or AF-c with face detection and eye af (which AF-s automatically does).
Do i have to set the focus distance roughly in advance? Or the focus point (which i often do btw). Or do you only mean the preparations like the ibis setting?
Maybe i will keep the Batis as a AF lens for fast working and the Norton for portraits, creative work and traveling. Too bad these lenses are expensive and there is not a all in one solution. I still doubt about that last part most (due to motor sound/ reliability/ image quality).
FotograafNL wrote:
Thanks for your reply (JohnDizzo15 as well)
I did search already but only found 1 user who had both who was pretty happy with how it worked with TAP. So that's not my definition of heavenly discussed (at least not based on experiences). And because it's not a cheap lens..
But i'm very happy you took the time to reply.
The field curvature is the thing i most worry about. That's something i'm curious for to hear from people who use it / see how bad it actually is. Setting the focal length for IBIS is extra work indeed, but oke.. Curious if you are right about that default focal length. There's really not much to find about this combo.
Auto magnify can be solved easy with my custom button (c2 in my case). The "which relays f stop" part i don't understand, sorry. Does the Av program still work correctly? I guess it also misses a camera raw profile. How bad is that i wonder. I don't have experience with lenses like this.
I guess i'd have to disconnect the TAP in the bag for the battery issue if these things can't be solved through updates.
The AF motor is just in line with my Sunway bracket i think.
The things i'm worried about is: will TAP keep working, how bad is the field curvature (and other errors??), the noise of the motor (can i use it during a ceremony; typical a situation you want AF).
Difficult decision. I don't have other M mount lenses. Photograph pretty all round and like to use it for my free work / travels as well. But mostly for portraits with surroundings. The wide aperture is a big plus over my Batis f2, which ibis beautiful but i find find disappointing in that aspect. These portraits are situations that i have control, but still.. photographing somebody from a low angle for instance. And i guess i have to refocus after each little pose change.
Despite the missing auto magnifier i can still use it very well (with all the Sony help) as a MF lens don't i? So the only issue is: how bad is the lesser IQ at the wide apertures?
@JohnDizzo15@: can you be more specific about what you mean with "adjust to the setup to maximize your success with it"?
If i will buy this M version i will probably use it in AF-s or AF-c with face detection and eye af (which AF-s automatically does).
Do i have to set the focus distance roughly in advance? Or the focus point (which i often do btw). Or do you only mean the preparations like the ibis setting?
Maybe i will keep the Batis as a AF lens for fast working and the Norton for portraits, creative work and traveling. Too bad these lenses are expensive and there is not a all in one solution. I still doubt about that last part most (due to motor sound/ reliability/ image quality). ...Show more →
With regard to field curvature, it is existent in the FE version and is worse in the adaptation of the VM. Not sure what degree of difference there is. But neither version is winning any awards for flat field.
Focal length for IBIS - there are two ways of doing it. You can either manually set it in the body or you can set the TAP/Pronto to what focal length you want it to electronically register as in the body. The default focal length is not 40mm. If I remember correctly, it's like 15mm or something. But again, you can change this to reflect whatever FL you want when the adapter is mounted and it will maintain that every time.
Battery drain - it does still do it. In general, if you leave it in the bag with a fully charged battery, it will stay that way. Otherwise, it does gradually drain although not as badly as some would have you believe.
Motor noise - you can definitely hear it if the room is silent. Kind of sounds like the Canon nifty 50 or the FE 50/1.8. Not obnoxiously loud but that is subjective. YMMV
On another note, I wouldn't bother with the VM 40 setup for what you're describing as your typical shooting scenario/use for it. The Batis 40 will probably serve you better and without all the quirks of a TAP setup. For what you're doing, I would personally rather just have something I can rely on and be certain of every single time I needed it to perform.
As stated previously, I cannot attest to other's experiences with wobble or durability of the TAP. Personally, I have not had any issues with wobble or failure yet. Fingers crossed it stays that way.
To answer your question about adjusting to the setup, I just meant understanding the caveats and what is needed on the part of the shooter to mitigate the effect of the shortcomings. Depending on the focus distance needed for your shot, there is a chance you may need to adjust the focus distance on the lens manually. Specifically, you can generally leave it at or near infinity for most of the focus range. But once you get near MFD, you must physically rack it back on the lens or you will not be able to achieve focus there. Also, depending on your body and firmwares, there are also variances in the number of times it resets focus in the middle of shooting sporadically. Not a big deal for a hobbyist like myself. But for a pro that can't be delayed by an extra second sometimes, it can be problematic. The other caveat of note is the lack of ability to use focus points away from the center section. You can go vertically through the center column (rule of thirds) and slightly away from center laterally. Everything else is a never-ending hunting zone.
Eye-AF and face detect work decently well assuming they are in the AF-able zone of the frame. I find that AF-S seems to work better as far as getting a good hit rate on both the A9 and R3.
FotograafNL wrote:
Thanks for your reply (JohnDizzo15 as well)
I did search already but only found 1 user who had both who was pretty happy with how it worked with TAP. So that's not my definition of heavenly discussed (at least not based on experiences).
Trying a site-restricted google search on this topic might help instead of the FM search. I got a ton of hits googling:
Basically everything I wrote about the VM version was learned from reading this thread, and there are some images posted throughout to help you evaluate the field curvature. Otherwise, a lot of your questions are more TAP-related, so you might get better answers where people are discussing that adapter.
Personally, I think the Batis 40 will be generally superior to the CV40+TAP with regards to AF (maybe barring eye-AF problems on the Batis improving with a firmware update). Even bokeh may probably be more satisfying with the Batis 40 compared to the VM version of this lens with the field curvature.
My goodness these images coming from this lens makes me want to pick one up from the B&S forum! I'm a newbie with MF but this lens makes me want to try.
Thank you JohnDizzo15 & grahamgibson for you replies (and time and effort). It helped me al lot!
I think i will purchase the FE mount, and probably keep the batis as well for the more stressfull occasions.
And maybe i will get used to using the mf with that much comfort that i will sell the batis later.
