imagesfromobjects wrote:
As far as greens, I found that both the a7 and a7S leaned towards green with just about any lens combo I threw on. Can't speak to the 2nd and 3rd gens, but I think it's system-wide. It's been reported elsewhere, too.
I noticed these color issues when I had the A7II for about a year. And it was even worse with original A7 that I had only for about a month. I sold it really fast since the colors were so horrible compared to Fuji X-T1 that I also had back then and the sensor reflections etc. pretty much ruined it for me.
Each generation seems to be a large improvement on the previous one. And now with A7III I'm finally really, really happy. Colors are great and the sensor reflection issues are pretty much gone.
Focusing @1.2 is tricky and prone to failure no matter what I have tried.
I have the automag on and the peaking at low. The joystick in the back is my Backfocus and move focus point button, so I keep the AFon/magnify as my Magnify button. Push once, focus box goes orange at no magnification, moves easily with LCD pad control. Push twice - 6xmag, for critical focus @1.2-2.0 push twice - 12xmag. That's how I do it. Might be better ways.
To keep AFon/Mag as a magnifier (and not Back button Focus) helps with videography too. The same orange box...
ajamils wrote:
Received the lens from fellow FM member and I'm trying to determine what's the best way to focus with it. Do you guys use focus peaking or magnified view? I tried magnified view and even though I was able to focus better I would lose the framing and couldn't see if the subject has moved.
With peaking, it's easier to frame but I'm finding that it is not 100% reliable as focus does not seem to be at the exact location where it shows specially at f1.2
I'm pretty excited, I wasn't expecting to have it by now but the stars aligned for me. It's been a while since I shot MF only, any tips on using this lens with an A7III?
I used to shoot all manual with the Canon 5D II but I'm afraid I've gotten rusty!
twentysevenone wrote:
I'm pretty excited, I wasn't expecting to have it by now but the stars aligned for me. It's been a while since I shot MF only, any tips on using this lens with an A7III?
I used to shoot all manual with the Canon 5D II but I'm afraid I've gotten rusty!
My workflow is to move the focusing point to where my subject is using the joystick and than just turning the focusing ring to magnify that area. I do use peaking as an aid and usually nail focus like that.
Keep in mind that the 40/1.2 has better performance wide open after 1m. If you shoot closer, either stop the lens down or add a close-up achromat to it.
Fred Miranda wrote:
My workflow is to move the focusing point to where my subject is using the joystick and than just turning the focusing ring to magnify that area. I do use peaking as an aid and usually nail focus like that.
Keep in mind that the 40/1.2 has better performance wide open after 1m. If you shoot closer, either stop the lens down or add a close-up achromat to it.
Have fun!
Cool, I plan to pack the Voigt 40 and the Sony 16-35 f4 as my hiking trail duo. I'm going to take the CV to a park or something tomorrow to get a feel for it before I leave for my trip. I'll try out what you suggested, thanks for the tip!
Also since I'm pestering you with questions... what do you think of CV 40 for astro?
Fred Miranda wrote:
The best way to avoid having to switch EFCS to 'off' whenever shooting at shutter speeds above 1/2000s is to use full electronic shutter (silent shutter).
Of course, if you are shooting action without a Sony A9, this may not be the best solution as you may get some skew. Keep in mind that this bokeh rendering "ill-effect" is only noticeable with fast lenses (f/1.2 until about f/1.8). I barely see it with slower lenses.
So the bokeh issue is only when using EFCS + the mechanical shutter but not silent shooting?
I was remembering the phillip reeve post incorrectly (thinking it was the silent shooting and not EFCS that was the culprit) and on my trip to Paris last week was turning silent shutter off on high shutter speeds (leaving EFCS on) to avoid the issue.
Ah well, at least I wasn't shooting faster than f4 in most cases.
scottsoapbox wrote:
So the bokeh issue is only when using EFCS + the mechanical shutter but not silent shooting?
I was remembering the phillip reeve post incorrectly (thinking it was the silent shooting and not EFCS that was the culprit) and on my trip to Paris last week was turning silent shutter off on high shutter speeds (leaving EFCS on) to avoid the issue.
Ah well, at least I wasn't shooting faster than f4 in most cases.
Yes, if you want to avoid the bokeh weirdness, just shoot use electronic shutter or turn EFCS 'off'.
Guys.... I have the FE35/2.8 but much prefer to use the old Classic Voigtlander 40/1.4 that I have in M-mount.
I'm presuming that this 40/1.2 in E mount is better in every way? I have scanned through some reviews, blogs and Flickr images. My main cons of the f/1.4 is the wide open glow and the extreme corner smearing - does the f/1.2 suffer in these ways?
I'm giving up with a small, fast 35/40mm AF lens and I'm getting very tempted by this one.
LeeRatters wrote:
Guys.... I have the FE35/2.8 but much prefer to use the old Classic Voigtlander 40/1.4 that I have in M-mount.
I'm presuming that this 40/1.2 in E mount is better in every way? I have scanned through some reviews, blogs and Flickr images. My main cons of the f/1.4 is the wide open glow and the extreme corner smearing - does the f/1.2 suffer in these ways?
I'm giving up with a small, fast 35/40mm AF lens and I'm getting very tempted by this one.
I use the original A7 BTW.
I had the 40/1.4 for a couple of weeks, on the original a7. While it has pretty nice character and "clarity", the performance at f/1.4 is nowhere close to the 40/1.2 wide open. I actually prefer the bokeh of the 40/1.4 @ f/2-2.8 though as the SA goes away as well as the hard outlining of the blur discs. The new Nokton does barely get any better bokeh when stopping down.
There is still a bunch of SA at f/1.2 and close distance, but still with higher contrast and is very usable as a feature for portraits.
So no, it's not better in every way, but a more versatile lens with flat field. It's more than reasonably sharp to the corners wide open too.
