The Tridge Panoramic view by J M, on Flickr
Panoramic view of the Tridge in Midland Michigan
A7R3 Loxia 35 F9 6 sec iso 100
5 image pano and cropped for composition
It has been a hot and hazy summer & fall in western Montana. Longer shots have more often than not been degraded by wildfire smoke haze. About a month ago I headed up to Two Medicine Lake in Glacier NP to shoot the Milky Way. PhotoPills had indicated that at around 10 PM the Milky Way would be on the right of Mt. Sinopah, and at around midnight to 1 am, to the right.
I preferred the composition with the MW to the right, but knew I should try to shoot both. The 10 o'clock one went well with not too much haze, but when I returned at midnight, I couldn't make out a single star until well above Sinopah. I blended this with a blue hour shot about an hour and a half before sunrise. I also got up to shoot the sunrise the sunrise, which turn out pretty well, as well. Didn't much sleep that night!
tbpeur01 wrote:
Beautiful shots! Have you been happy with the 25 for astro purposes?
Tyler:
Thank you.
I am no "expert", but, yes, I have been happy with it. Thanks for selling it me a couple of years ago. Did you never try astro with it?
I also use the 21, probably more - it all depends on what composition you want - more sky - or some perspective on foreground like mtns. Both are very good, I think.
I am no "expert", but, yes, I have been happy with it. Thanks for selling it me a couple of years ago. Did you never try astro with it?
I also use the 21, probably more - it all depends on what composition you want - more sky - or some perspective on foreground like mtns. Both are very good, I think.
Cheers
Doug
I have used Loxia 21 for astro. The problem is that it is only f/2.8 with fairly high vignetting. Depends on what kind of astro one shooting but in typical night sky and aurora scenarios this forces one to use fairly high ISO with corners lifted via lens profile.
I like Loxia 21 as an overall landscape lens, but strictly for astro I would look for other alternatives, preferably with brighter max aperture and less vignetting.
tuomkok wrote:
I have used Loxia 21 for astro. The problem is that it is only f/2.8 with fairly high vignetting. Depends on what kind of astro one shooting but in typical night sky and aurora scenarios this forces one to use fairly high ISO with corners lifted via lens profile.
I like Loxia 21 as an overall landscape lens, but strictly for astro I would look for other alternatives, preferably with brighter max aperture and less vignetting.
I don't use it "strictly for astro", but rather as an all round landscape lens that I can use for astro if favorable circumstances presents itself - especially when backpacking.
graytrekker wrote:
I don't use it "strictly for astro", but rather as an all round landscape lens that I can use for astro if favorable circumstances presents itself - especially when backpacking.
I am curious as to which lens you do use?
Thanks
Doug
I use Loxia 21 in a similar way as you. It compliments 35mm or 24-70mm when I go to hikes for landscapes. Then I usually have Batis 135 for tele work. I do not carry a long tele when hiking. Bring to keep my kit light.
I must say that I really like Loxia 21 for landscapes. It has character, good contrast and resolution, and 52mm filters are a big plus. Loxia 21 is not the most easy lens to focus manually, but I have made my mistakes and learned its quirks
I have shot astro and night sky shots with 16-35mm GM. It is also f/2.8 and vignetting is a problem, but not as bad as Loxia. Unfortunately 16-35 GM is very difficult to manual focus, too sensitive and distance scale is way off. Focus also changes when zooming. Actually I am thinking of selling 16-35 GM and buying a bright prime like new Sigma 20mm for this kind of shooting.
BTW Even though not perfect lens, Loxia 21 is a keeper!
Thanks! I made my own film profile, based on matching over 2000 tones (with color response) from Tri-X 400 film (as scanned with a Coolscan 9000). I didn't do any selective processing like dodging or burning, I just applied my profile to each image with only a minor tweak if any to the contrast.
