I don't often shoot tele, outside of using within a zoom's range. And I have a fairly nice Samyang 85/1.4 with close-up helicon for times I need one, plus several zooms.
I would be more interested in a 28/2 if they eventually make one.
Not to say I don't admire the terrific images I see here with the Loxia and other 85s on the Sony bodies. I'm just more of a wide-to-normal guy.
Luvwine wrote:
Don't like the 85? My trio is 21, 50, 85. All are great!
Gunzorro wrote:
I don't often shoot tele, outside of using within a zoom's range. And I have a fairly nice Samyang 85/1.4 with close-up helicon for times I need one, plus several zooms.
I would be more interested in a 28/2 if they eventually make one.
Not to say I don't admire the terrific images I see here with the Loxia and other 85s on the Sony bodies. I'm just more of a wide-to-normal guy.
I would buy a 28mm f2 in a heartbeat. I'd also like to see a 15mm Loxia.
Some photos from a recent trip to Joshua Tree National Park. Used the Loxia 21 and 85 exclusively. Loxia 21 was great for landscapes while the Loxia 85 was excellent for isolating detail.
I think you underestimate the northerly latitudes -- yours still has pleasant warm color balance moving into summer at midday! The boat looks gorgeous against the blue elements behind.
Your Loxia 35 might perhaps have more corner softness than mine.
Mine might have slight forward curvature, which I use to my advantage when possible.
I too tend to crop slightly, mostly do to some slight tilt correction (plus composition adjustments), leaving slightly better opportunity to look a touch better -- added bonus.
Even if yours is a little softer in just the corners, your rendering looks amazing to me on this end. Looking forward to more to come.
I'll be up in your general neck of the woods within a week. Hope the torrents of rain decide on a little break.
I ended up returning all three Loxia lenses to B&H.
Due to the really slow shipping, I only had a few days to decide before my return window closed, and I just couldn't shake the feeling there were issues with the lenses (why else would the previous owner(s) have returned them?).
I also found the ergonomics of these lenses a bit of a hindrance - I spoiled far too many shots going back and forth between the focusing and aperture rings doing the "open-up-to-focus-stop-down-to-shoot" dance and accidentally moving the focusing ring. I just can't imagine being able to use these lenses in the winter when wearing gloves.
Sorry they didn't work out for you, but your reasons make perfect sense.
I agree that it is easy to bump focus ring and go OOF. It takes vigilance and re-checking at times. Still, I prefer to a heavily damped movement.
I'm sure you'll be happy when you get your Batis set!
molson wrote:
I ended up returning all three Loxia lenses to B&H.
Due to the really slow shipping, I only had a few days to decide before my return window closed, and I just couldn't shake the feeling there were issues with the lenses (why else would the previous owner(s) have returned them?).
I also found the ergonomics of these lenses a bit of a hindrance - I spoiled far too many shots going back and forth between the focusing and aperture rings doing the "open-up-to-focus-stop-down-to-shoot" dance and accidentally moving the focusing ring. I just can't imagine being able to use these lenses in the winter when wearing gloves.
Now, on to re-acquire the Batis collection... ...Show more →
Do folks not just adjust their ISO and shutter speed for their intended aperture and then focus? I can't really say that I've ever felt the need to focus wide open and then stop down. Certainly not on a mirrorless camera. Not to mention, there is focus shift in a good number of lenses.
IndyFab wrote:
What seems to be the sweet f stop on the 21 ~ 35 ~ 50
I like them at all apertures, even wide open. But best corner-to-corner is probably just over f/5.6: f/6.3 to 7.1, not considering DOF needs. For my shooting, f/8 is the "sweet spot" including adequate DOF for most of my subjects at mid-to-long distances. Really, anywhere between f/5.6-11 is great with little aberration, CA, vignetting or diffraction effects.
jcopelan wrote:
Do folks not just adjust their ISO and shutter speed for their intended aperture and then focus? I can't really say that I've ever felt the need to focus wide open and then stop down. Certainly not on a mirrorless camera. Not to mention, there is focus shift in a good number of lenses.
I can go either way for most subjects, wide open or stopped down in good light. But when shooting stopped down beyond f/5.6 in dim light, it is hard to get enough light in optical viewfinder to assess overall composition details, and in EVF, and the viewfinder becomes excessively noisy as gain is increased, making precise focus difficult or impossible except by trial and error (try twilight or night shots). In these cases, being able to focus wide open is a big asset, provided the lens doesn't have significant focus shift when stopping down to shooting aperture. The introduction of auto-aperture was a big step forward when introduced to SLR's, but is of slightly less importance with DSLR's, especially if they offer LV or EVF (except for the added noise in viewing).
There is no perfect method at this point. We need EVF and LV that has no noise in low EV situations! A sensor with 20 stops DR would help! Ha-ha!
Thanks Jim, it was your images and Freds that caught my eye on the Loxia lens. Also all the shots here on the exclusive Loxia thread are really great using the A7RII It seems the only negative by some is the focus ring to close to camera and aperture ring.. Also don't buy used unless its from a reputable user of the lens here on FM like you did for the 21
Gunzorro wrote:
I can go either way for most subjects, wide open or stopped down in good light. But when shooting stopped down beyond f/5.6 in dim light, it is hard to get enough light in optical viewfinder to assess overall composition details, and in EVF, and the viewfinder becomes excessively noisy as gain is increased, making precise focus difficult or impossible except by trial and error (try twilight or night shots). In these cases, being able to focus wide open is a big asset, provided the lens doesn't have significant focus shift when stopping down to shooting aperture. The introduction of auto-aperture was a big step forward when introduced to SLR's, but is of slightly less importance with DSLR's, especially if they offer LV or EVF (except for the added noise in viewing).
There is no perfect method at this point. We need EVF and LV that has no noise in low EV situations! A sensor with 20 stops DR would help! Ha-ha! ...Show more →
Would tethering say between camera and Ipad help with the focusing
IndyFab wrote:
Would tethering say between camera and Ipad help with the focusing
The noise from gain boost will be shown in larger screen as well. It's just not ideal for low EV situations. Stopping down to shooting aperture just makes it worse in dim light.
I never shoot tethered -- just too much fiddling and risk on location for me. I tend to get a bit frazzled in dim shooting conditions, with only a 20 minute window on available light, using a tripod with two cameras going at the same time! I won't even use my phone as a monitor/trigger, because I can just see it falling off a freeway overpass as I juggle. Risk of dropping something exponentially increases with each added piece of gear.
Unless I'm using a tripod at twilight, these days I do all my shooting hand held for mobility and speed. Internal level is one of the best features for me with modern cameras (including Nikon and Canon DSLR), along with IBIS of the Sony.
My "best practices" scenario: For twilight shots, I usually arrive well in advance, set up in sunlight, determine my focus in good light, tape down my focus ring, and wait until the right moment to start shooting. This has been worked out from years of getting shots that are not repeatable -- like specific weather conditions or permissions to use roof of high rise buildings. I do use my phone to kill time while I wait! Ha-ha!
