nctemper wrote:
If anybody has a 5D MarkIII or 1DX don't bother with ANY Kenko or Canon tc it both camera body will read you "ERROR please clean contacts...."
I hope people can confirm this here that have the same equipment as above
I just tried my 5D3 with Kenko DGX Pro300 1.4 and it works. I didn't tape any pins and get no error message.
The viewfinder shows the aperture as 00, but it shows in the top lcd display correctly for the lens.
surf monkey wrote:
I just tried my 5D3 with Kenko DGX Pro300 1.4 and it works. I didn't tape any pins and get no error message.
The viewfinder shows the aperture as 00, but it shows in the top lcd display correctly for the lens.
The Canon TCs won't mount on this lens.
Did you try 5d MarkIII & Kenko TC & Tamron 150-600 and it worked??
Just had a polite phone conversation with a Tamron service tech regarding issues with losing AF when in continuous mode. So far this is new news to him but was very interested in learning more of what is being experienced and I directed him here to this thread......................
nctemper wrote:
If anybody has a 5D MarkIII or 1DX don't bother with ANY Kenko or Canon tc it both camera body will read you "ERROR please clean contacts...."
I hope people can confirm this here that have the same equipment as above
surf monkey wrote:
I just tried my 5D3 with Kenko DGX Pro300 1.4 and it works. I didn't tape any pins and get no error message.
The viewfinder shows the aperture as 00, but it shows in the top lcd display correctly for the lens.
The Canon TCs won't mount on this lens.
nctemper wrote:
Did you try 5d MarkIII & Kenko TC & Tamron 150-600 and it worked??
Yes, that's why I said "it works".
AF doesn't function though.
Karl Witt wrote:
Just had a polite phone conversation with a Tamron service tech regarding issues with losing AF when in continuous mode. So far this is new news to him but was very interested in learning more of what is being experienced and I directed him here to this thread......................
This is very good news that they are taking an interest in resolving issues. Thanks for directing him to this thread!
Folks have talked about firmware upgrades as a possible fix of issues.
I presume this means we'd have to send our lenses back to Tamron for such a fix.
Well double bummer. My Tamron is requiring +12 and +13 on both my cameras 1DIV and 5DIII and this is using the dottune and it still focuses at +20 so probably worse than that. With no MA'ing set at all (0) it won't even focus. I called to see about return to B & H for another copy, no stock, so I would have to ship it off and then once received I have to wait for another copy to be available to send OR the only way they will ship and let you return the bad one after you receive the good one is to pay for 2 lens and then get a refund. So.... I called Tamron, they won't pay for shipping from me to them even on a new lens. And, IF a problem they will fix but they have had absolutely no problems. I don't really feel I should be out 30 or more for shipping on a lens 7 days old. Anyone know of stock on these from a reputable company just incase Murphys law is ready to get me on this.
Better be more explicit, it will focus with 0 MA but when you look at the image it is so blurred it is not at all in focus.
PCKit wrote:
Well double bummer. My Tamron is requiring +12 and +13 on both my cameras 1DIV and 5DIII and this is using the dottune and it still focuses at +20 so probably worse than that. With no MA'ing set at all (0) it won't even focus. I called to see about return to B & H for another copy, no stock, so I would have to ship it off and then once received I have to wait for another copy to be available to send OR the only way they will ship and let you return the bad one after you receive the good one is to pay for 2 lens and then get a refund. So.... I called Tamron, they won't pay for shipping from me to them even on a new lens. And, IF a problem they will fix but they have had absolutely no problems. I don't really feel I should be out 30 or more for shipping on a lens 7 days old. Anyone know of stock on these from a reputable company just incase Murphys law is ready to get me on this.
Better be more explicit, it will focus with 0 MA but when you look at the image it is so blurred it is not at all in focus. ...Show more →
Sorry to hear about you issues. I understand about paying for something that was of no use to you as I had to pay $52 to the federal government for closing a line of credit that I never used, to close the lien.
For those of us who may eventually have these issues, what is MA'ing? Is it micro adjusting? Some of us don't text and have no clue what text shortened versions are.
Why two numbers (+12 and +13)? Is one for the one camera and one for the other, because you say on "both cameras" which leaves me confused? Then you say that it "still focuses at +20 so probably worse then that", what does this mean?
I'm just trying to understand what I may eventually be up against. Thanks!
sfink161 wrote:
Sorry to hear about you issues. I understand about paying for something that was of no use to you as I had to pay $52 to the federal government for closing a line of credit that I never used, to close the lien.
For those of us who may eventually have these issues, what is MA'ing? Is it micro adjusting? Some of us don't text and have no clue what text shortened versions are.
Why two numbers (+12 and +13)? Is one for the one camera and one for the other, because you say on "both cameras" which leaves me confused? Then you say that it "still focuses at +20 so probably worse then that", what does this mean?
I'm just trying to understand what I may eventually be up against. Thanks!...Show more →
sfink161 wrote:
Sorry to hear about you issues. I understand about paying for something that was of no use to you as I had to pay $52 to the federal government for closing a line of credit that I never used, to close the lien.
For those of us who may eventually have these issues, what is MA'ing? Is it micro adjusting? Some of us don't text and have no clue what text shortened versions are.
Why two numbers (+12 and +13)? Is one for the one camera and one for the other, because you say on "both cameras" which leaves me confused? Then you say that it "still focuses at +20 so probably worse then that", what does this mean?
I'm just trying to understand what I may eventually be up against. Thanks!...Show more →
Imagemaster wrote:
Look up AF Microadjustment in your 7D manual.
I did and understand what it is. However, I don't understand text term like MA'ing. I understand that you can register lens one by one or make all the adjustments the same. My confusion was the way the post was written by PCKit. It was hard for me to determine which +12 and which +13 went to which camera. I could guess but assuming is never a good idea. And does the +20 have to do with it. Here's the free version of setting up micro adjustments on the 7D:
I did and understand what it is. However, I don't understand text term like MA'ing. I understand that you can register lens one by one or make all the adjustments the same. My confusion was the way the post was written by PCKit. It was hard for me to determine which +12 and which +13 went to which camera. I could guess but assuming is never a good idea. And does the +20 have to do with it.
MA (Micro Adjust) MA'ing Micro adjusting
Each lens on body is unique, you don't use settings for all lenses. MA settings are unique to the particular lens and recognized by the body when the lens goes on it. You can MA a lens and say it has a +8 setting then you can also use the same lens and add a teleconvertor and do a MA again and it might be a -3. The body will recall these settings for lens and for lens+TC.
MA makes up for non compatible tolerances or shall we say fine tunes them to their very best potentials together.
It isn't 'work' to do this it is mandatory to extract critical focus and that is why it is available to you to do from Canon. The more depth of field or smaller f/stop ie f/8-f/16 the less noticeable is the inaccuracy of the auto focus.
Tony, would you provide some guidance to us less knowledgeable folks (at least to me) as to the proper TC to use with this lens and why? And will it be effective on a Canon 70-200 as well? Are there a significant advantages to Canon's TC over the Kenko when used with a Canon lens? Thanks in advance!
I have used the Tamron version of the 1.4x converter. AF works for static target (hunts a bit). Did not get a change to test on the BiF shot (may be pushing too much). AFAIK, Tamron & Kenko are the same teleconverters. I got mine for $60 bucks from ebay.
Canon version of the teleconverter wont even fit on the new tami.
I did and understand what it is. However, I don't understand text term like MA'ing. I understand that you can register lens one by one or make all the adjustments the same. My confusion was the way the post was written by PCKit. It was hard for me to determine which +12 and which +13 went to which camera. I could guess but assuming is never a good idea. And does the +20 have to do with it. Here's the free version of setting up micro adjustments on the 7D:
MA is not a Texting term, just a photography technical term. Karl explained it so I'll just add that I gave 2 settings because one of my camera's is a 5DIII and it allows for adjusting on the wide end and on the Telephoto or long end. Those settings are for the same camera meaning both ends of the zoom require adjusting. When you use the dot tune which was a process posted on here by a fellow FM member, and one that I like much better than Focal which I also have, you MA the lens then use the center number of the two ends of good focus. ie, your lens starts giving AF conformation solid at + 5 and stops giving AF conformation at +15 then you set to +10 which is the center of where it starts and where it stops. Mine was still giving solid AF conformation at +20 which means I never found the one end of the AF conformation. I hope this helps your confusion. I highly recommend the Dot tune method and think it is the most accurate method I have personally used.
Karl Witt wrote:
MA (Micro Adjust) MA'ing Micro adjusting
Each lens on body is unique, you don't use settings for all lenses. MA settings are unique to the particular lens and recognized by the body when the lens goes on it. You can MA a lens and say it has a +8 setting then you can also use the same lens and add a teleconvertor and do a MA again and it might be a -3. The body will recall these settings for lens and for lens+TC.
MA makes up for non compatible tolerances or shall we say fine tunes them to their very best potentials together.
It isn't 'work' to do this it is mandatory to extract critical focus and that is why it is available to you to do from Canon. The more depth of field or smaller f/stop ie f/8-f/16 the less noticeable is the inaccuracy of the auto focus.
Hope that makes sense............
Karl ...Show more →
Thanks Karl! I liked the 2nd link in your first reply. I didn't know that you had to MA for a TC as well. Perhaps that's why I seem to get results on my 5D mkII with the 100-400mm by itself but not so good when adding the Tamron 1.4x. Maybe MA'ing is the answer or it's just too cheap to work well in any case. On my 7D with 100-400 I'm not so sure it's a perfect fit either. I'll have to revisit both cameras and lens when the weather warms up, if it ever warms up.
I used to hear folks on forums when I first get my first DSLR, the Rebel 300D, that the lens was front-focusing or back-focusing and had to send it back. Then Canon and other manufacturers went with the MA solution I suppose. I must've been sleeping when all that discussion was going on.
Yes, I am aware that I need maximum aperture, F5.6 on the 100-400 and f6.3 on the Tamron if and when I ever get it.
PCKit wrote:
MA is not a Texting term, just a photography technical term. Karl explained it so I'll just add that I gave 2 settings because one of my camera's is a 5DIII and it allows for adjusting on the wide end and on the Telephoto or long end. Those settings are for the same camera meaning both ends of the zoom require adjusting. When you use the dot tune which was a process posted on here by a fellow FM member, and one that I like much better than Focal which I also have, you MA the lens then use the center number of the two ends of good focus. ie, your lens starts giving AF conformation solid at + 5 and stops giving AF conformation at +15 then you set to +10 which is the center of where it starts and where it stops. Mine was still giving solid AF conformation at +20 which means I never found the one end of the AF conformation. I hope this helps your confusion. I highly recommend the Dot tune method and think it is the most accurate method I have personally used.
Yep, I understand now why your concern of the +20 giving AF reading and you could go no further. I don't have the 5D mkIII so I didn't know about the wide and tele settings being available. As for the photography terminology, that term didn't exist for my 300D, 20D, or 40D. I was already trenched without that term and never thought anything of it. Now I have two cameras that it available in 7D, and 5D mkII and know how to use the features. Thanks!
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