wfrank wrote:
Hey Samuli. Curious, why would you stop down to 2.5 for the first shot? The bokeh-pleasure grows exponentially with 1.4 for that lens, or?
Wilhelm,
Primarly because DOF was not enough f/1.7 and f/2.0 shots. If you look at top of the focus area you see there is part, which comes closer to camera and it doesn't have as much acutance as rest of the DOF-image-area (even I added sharpening, clarity and contrast to that part it still stands out for not being as sharp, clearly visible even on the presented 1280px wide webthumbnail).
Secondarily because boke quality (not quantity...) increases by closing down even with best of lenses. This scene found the "not-so-sweet-spot" of FE 1.4/35, as f/1.7-2.2 boke was little distracting due to boke quality issues in the branches of fallen tree. Also f/1.4-f/2.2 had "sharper" boke (=larger DOF) in corners and short edges due to vignetting, but f/2.5 starts to be pretty good on scenes like this, where background is not immediately behind focus plane. It's pretty common to have thicker DOF on corners until lens is closed 2-3 stops. Generally FE1.4/35 is one of the very few lenses I would not mind shooting wide open, but at some special conditions it can make boke ugly (very rare). At same time there contrast in DOF increases little bit, making subject to stand out from background little better.
Majority of my lenses I almost never shoot wide open. Exceptions are FE1.4/35, C/Y 3.5/100 and Leica APO 2.8/180 (maybe Canon 300mm f/2.8 L IS if I still would have it). Due to reasons mentioned in "secondary" chapter. For example when I shoot forest boke shots with ZM 2/35 I know that I need to close down f/3.2 or f/3.5 depending on focus distance to optimize the boke (+close down more if scene requires larger DOF). However I'm still new to FE1.4/35, so I'm still shooting aperture series from most of subjects to really learn the lens. So in this scene actually the aperture selection was made at computer, not when I shoot the scene.
Learning usually takes me ~250 boke scenes (=250 aperture series), but when I have learned the rendering of lens I can usually select composition before I start to setup tripod and take camera from backbag. And for me aperture is essential part of composition as it selects how much of the 3rd dimension is in focus. Sometimes learning process can be speed up by watching a lot of images from lens on forums/Flickr etc. For example if I would buy ZM1.4/35 I'm pretty sure I would learn the lens just shooting ~50 photos.
Samuli