Phillip Reeve – finally decided to try out your rokkor MC 55/1.7? looks good, i must admit i only use the lens for narrow dof work.
apologies to to everyone who has no interest in birds, but here's some more... i decided to try humming birds with the R 350mm wide open today:
then i got a bit overconfident and decided to try with the rokinon 85/1.4 wide open:
this is really the fault of the cameras mushy shutter, he was trying to decide whether to attack his reflection in the lens when i started mashing it down.
sebboh wrote:
Phillip Reeve – finally decided to try out your rokkor MC 55/1.7? looks good, i must admit i only use the lens for narrow dof work.
yeah, the 1.2/58 didn't fit in the bag and I remembered that you liked the bokeh and some postive experience from the past so I took it and I really like it's rendering. I think I will take it with me more often in the coming weeks.
Here are some images that I took last night from the Trexler Nature Preserve Environmental Center in blustery windy conditions as the light was changing in Magic Hour and as the sun was going down. Images taken at f11 with my A7r and my Minolta CLE MC 40mm f2 M-Rokkor lens and processed in LR5.4.
Phillip Reeve wrote:
hmm sounds rather complicated to me.
This is how I manage it:
set Zebra to 100+
keep ISO as low as possible, you loose a little less than one stop of DR every time you double it. ISO 50 is nothing else but an ISO 100 Image which has been pulled 1 Stop by the camera, so you loose some highlights and gain some shadow detal
My memory slot 1 on the dial is programmed to ISO 100 and A mode and I use this whenever I have enough light keep my camera steady enough at the desired aperture which is most of the time.
slot 2 is programmed to S mode and auto ISO which I use when there is a danger of too long exposure times for sharp images. This usually means that it is darker and the scene cntrast won't be too big.
Now I use the exposure compensation dial until the Zebra pattern shows in the highlights an the I turn it about 2/3 of a stop more because Zebra is based on the jpg and highlights areas which are not over exposed. I never tested this exactly but 1 stop over what zebra shwos as no overexposure seems to be a safe enough bet.
It happens that this results in nearly black midtones, I then turn on DRO 5 which will let me see into the darker areas. If the midtones stay black despite DRO 5 I will have to sacrifice some highlight detail.
Regarding your 5th bullet, I am not certain by what you mean. When you say "2/3 stop more", does that mean that you open up the aperture 2/3 of a stop beyond the beginning of zebra-pattern appearing, or that you close down the aperture 2/3 of a stop more?
Regarding your 5th bullet, I am not certain by what you mean. When you say "2/3 stop more", does that mean that you open up the aperture 2/3 of a stop beyond the beginning of zebra-pattern appearing, or that you close down the aperture 2/3 of a stop more?
Thanks.
I usually compensate with the shutter speed but I give more exposure, so if 1/200 sec. was the last time were there was no Zebra pattern I will expose at 1/100sec.
