I've been trying 90s for my M9. Today I took the latest Leica 90/2.5 Summarit out with my A7. For distant landscapes it is OK, but not like on the M9. However I am liking the portraits:
uhoh7 wrote:
Today I took the latest Leica 90/2.5 Summarit out with my A7. For distant landscapes it is OK, but not like on the M9. However I am liking the portraits:
Charlie, I don't follow what you prefer about the images with the 90/2.5 on your M9 vs. your A7. I can't believe the corner performance is any better because my 90 Cron has perfect corner performance on my A7r.
Jeff Kott wrote:
Charlie, I don't follow what you prefer about the images with the 90/2.5 on your M9 vs. your A7. I can't believe the corner performance is any better because my 90 Cron has perfect corner performance on my A7r.
Hi Jeff,
Nothing to do with corners. Resolution of fine detail everywhere on the frame is better by a fair margin in shots like:
A7 above.. That's been my experience with all my glass shooting at low ISO.
But not trying to bash the great sonys. As this thread shows they are awesome
But now that M9s are down to 3200ish, I'd certainly encourage any one who loves the A7s and RF glass, and never considered a digi M to take a second look.
You don't need to spend a fortune on glass at all, since the CVs are simply killer on the M9. The 35/2.5 and the 75/2.5 are really outstanding, as are many other lenses. Then of course there are the zeiss Ms. My ZM 18 is so off the hook on the M9 I about faint to see the shots for the first time (you never know what you have in the field).
The M9 is often lighter in the field than the Sony also, since the lenses are so small. It's a tougher build, and another thing I notice is that people like it more than other cameras, they smile easier and ask about it much more often.
Anyway my point there is that in the real world the A7 and the M9 are the same size.
Using the A7 on a daily basis is what convinced me to try the Leica-- I had been convinced it was too big.
edwardkaraa wrote:
I agree about wide and face detection. This is my default setting. It has ruined some important photos though when shooting in the crowds, the camera tends to focus on the people in the background for some reason.
The surest method so far is the small flexible point, kept in the center. It allows me to get critical focus on the eyes and shoot fast in the same time.
May I ask that when I use the small flexible point to focus, is it more accurate since the box is smaller than the AFS box ?
I am having trouble getting the a7 to auto focus sharply on my kids face, even more so when they are moving. I was thinking if the small flexible point focusing method will help me aim more accurately in the eye.
This is what I do now:
1. I half shutter to auto focus in DMF mode
2. Holding on to the shutter , Immediately I turn the focusing ring to manual focus in magnified mode. This is one of my problem because I need to wait for the magnified image to go back to normal before I can recompose .
Based my my method , could someone correct me so that I can do faster accurate focusing and recomposing? I love taking pictures of my kids, but using the above method I kind of lost some moments, if you know what I mean.
Appreciate all inputs, I am still not good in photography.
jlee1974 wrote:
May I ask that when I use the small flexible point to focus, is it more accurate since the box is smaller than the AFS box ?
I am having trouble getting the a7 to auto focus sharply on my kids face, even more so when they are moving. I was thinking if the small flexible point focusing method will help me aim more accurately in the eye.
This is what I do now:
1. I half shutter to auto focus in DMF mode
2. Holding on to the shutter , Immediately I turn the focusing ring to manual focus in magnified mode. This is one of my problem because I need to wait for the magnified image to go back to normal before I can recompose .
Based my my method , could someone correct me so that I can do faster accurate focusing and recomposing? I love taking pictures of my kids, but using the above method I kind of lost some moments, if you know what I mean.
Appreciate all inputs, I am still not good in photography. ...Show more →
Small box will make camera have harder time to focusing, especially at low light. The way you described can't be used for moving kids, if they are not moving, you have many way to do the focus Why you need MF with AF lens?
I found trying to moving box and do the tracking focus have two issue in addition to slow (you need hit the center button first then move), distract composition, overload camera which have limited process power. No wonder you will feel frustrated. This can not be used for tracking kids
I would suggest:
1. observe the scene, predicate the composition, move the focus box at the same time to fit your composition and do AFC focus (detail see my previous post )
2. Focus and recompose, still the best way to fully control by you. I hit focus once, and recompose and at the same time do the tracking by my hand or body. watch your shutter speed though, (I assume you already have high shutter speed with kids, but you might want extra for your movement)
AF, just like MF need some practice and thinking process.
3. From your kids pics posted here, I see you do many close range portrait. You might want use small box if they are not moving(though slow), if they are moving at that range, only thing you can do is practice and luck with either manual predict focus or AF-C earlier (means lock focus first and tracking.) Even top DSLR won't be able to do tacking at MFD
Your images looks great! I love them.
Sorry if this distract the image thread.
Leica 80-200mm F4 a7 at Huangshan Anhui, China
I usually only post Leica R images in R thread.
jlee1974 wrote:
May I ask that when I use the small flexible point to focus, is it more accurate since the box is smaller than the AFS box ?
I am having trouble getting the a7 to auto focus sharply on my kids face, even more so when they are moving. I was thinking if the small flexible point focusing method will help me aim more accurately in the eye.
This is what I do now:
1. I half shutter to auto focus in DMF mode
2. Holding on to the shutter , Immediately I turn the focusing ring to manual focus in magnified mode. This is one of my problem because I need to wait for the magnified image to go back to normal before I can recompose .
Based my my method , could someone correct me so that I can do faster accurate focusing and recomposing? I love taking pictures of my kids, but using the above method I kind of lost some moments, if you know what I mean.
Appreciate all inputs, I am still not good in photography. ...Show more →
Wide AF area and face detection work best with kids. You just compose and wait for the box to light up in green on the face. Alternatively, you can use focus/recompose with the flexible small box, but kids tend to move a lot, so unless they're static, or you're willing to sacrifice a bit on the composition part, it's not gonna give you the best results.
