I'm not really keen on looking dumb (no need to publish that unfortunate fact world wide) but the other option - to stay ignorant - is even worse. I tried playing with my 24, I tried searching, no luck. So, here goes: How do you make miniaturization? And could you do the reverse?
Yakim Peled wrote:
I'm not really keen on looking dumb (no need to publish that unfortunate fact world wide) but the other option - to stay ignorant - is even worse. I tried playing with my 24, I tried searching, no luck. So, here goes: How do you make miniaturization? And could you do the reverse?
Hit me.
Happy shooting,
Yakim.
A few things on why something looks small in a picture or the characteristic of miniatures,
- shallow DOF
- The usual perspective is you look down on something smaller than you.
- miniatures are usually made of plastic or painted. That explains the strong colour saturation.
To fake it with a TS-E lens is to simply aim down at whatever you're trying to shoot and tilt the lens up. In Photoshop or whatever software you're using, simply increase the colour saturation.
Anyone can add to this? That's pretty much all I did.
To do the reverse is to simply aim up to make things look even bigger.
I’ve been saving my nickels and dimes to get a TS-E 17mm; I'm almost there.
In the review board a fellow recently posted a scathing review of the 17mm; saying it was terrible when shifted. I’m not seeing that here at all. Are any of you having the same issues he is having?
Thanks to those of you posting photos; great shots and very informative.
Extreme shift horizontally (or vertically when in portrait orientation) can cause some softeness at the top of frame with my 17. If I start to see that I shift a bit less or place sky in that area of the frame. Make sense because the image circle is closest to the edge in that orientation when shifted. I would really worry as you don't typically need full shift and there are not any other options anyway. The 17TS-E is fabulous.
Chiefdog72 wrote:
I’ve been saving my nickels and dimes to get a TS-E 17mm; I'm almost there.
In the review board a fellow recently posted a scathing review of the 17mm; saying it was terrible when shifted. I’m not seeing that here at all. Are any of you having the same issues he is having?
Thanks to those of you posting photos; great shots and very informative.
Good luck with your investment! It's a great investment.
The extreme corners when fully shifted are acceptable to me at f/16. Better than any other wide angle offering. If I'm not mistaken it's effectively a 10mm lens so slight softness in the extreme corners is not that strange.
n0b0 wrote:
A few things on why something looks small in a picture or the characteristic of miniatures,
- shallow DOF
- The usual perspective is you look down on something smaller than you.
- miniatures are usually made of plastic or painted. That explains the strong colour saturation.
To fake it with a TS-E lens is to simply aim down at whatever you're trying to shoot and tilt the lens up. In Photoshop or whatever software you're using, simply increase the colour saturation.
Anyone can add to this? That's pretty much all I did.
To do the reverse is to simply aim up to make things look even bigger....Show more →
It's a very simple technique but alas, it didn't work. Any idea why?
The 17mm gives fantastic coverage when you shift-stitch. What's normally fairly compelling to look at in terms of perspective, becomes a bit eye-popping from the splay.
Richard Nye wrote:
I love my 24 TS-E II. Here's one from my family's cottage on a lake in Michigan. The water under the camera (which is crystal clear) is about 3 feet deep and it gets gradually deeper farther out. It's tilted and 3 shot pano (shifted left, right, center). Taken with 1DsIII.
Ernie Aubert wrote:
Richard - I can spot three fish for sure, possibly four; but I can't tell what they are. Are those walleyes (never seen one myself)?
Ernie,
They very well could be juvenile walleyes. There are walleyes in the lake. There are also perch, sunfish, and bass (small mouth and large mouth).
