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Manual Focus Nikon Glass
  
 
leighton w
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p.2439 #1 · p.2439 #1 · Manual Focus Nikon Glass


a.RodriguezPix wrote:
Very nice!

Thank you amigo!



Feb 14, 2013 at 09:25 PM
kwoodard
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p.2439 #2 · p.2439 #2 · Manual Focus Nikon Glass


a.RodriguezPix wrote:
I don't understand gray card to much, so I end up skipping them! I dont get how to take the gray cards picture, does it have to cover the entire photo? would light not reach it then? is it ok to tilt the gray card so that the light source hits it directly? i have used it, and it seems right at times, but i am unsure if it is correctly used? do i use auto, or m mode, does it need to be in focus? thanks for hearing me rant!


Most people say that it is used to get exposure "right"... I say it is used to get exposure close. When I have used it, I have it within the same light as whatever I am shooting, having the card essentially reflecting the light into the lens. I set aperture, shutter, and ISO to get the little light meter centered. If I shoot with these settings, it usually comes out properly exposed, but a little flat. That is why I say its used to get it close.

I made the mistake of going on a shoot as a helper and the 2nd unit forgot their card. I lent them mine and in the crazy that ensued, I never got it back. I need to get another one, its a very useful tool.



Feb 14, 2013 at 09:52 PM
leighton w
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p.2439 #3 · p.2439 #3 · Manual Focus Nikon Glass


kwoodard wrote:
Most people say that it is used to get exposure "right"... I say it is used to get exposure close. When I have used it, I have it within the same light as whatever I am shooting, having the card essentially reflecting the light into the lens. I set aperture, shutter, and ISO to get the little light meter centered. If I shoot with these settings, it usually comes out properly exposed, but a little flat. That is why I say its used to get it close.

I made the mistake of going on a shoot as a helper and
...Show more

This is one reason I shoot RAW. So easy to change white balance in post if need be.



Feb 14, 2013 at 09:57 PM
a.RodriguezPix
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p.2439 #4 · p.2439 #4 · Manual Focus Nikon Glass


leighton w wrote:
This is one reason I shoot RAW. So easy to change white balance in post if need be.


Yeah, I have read that multiple times, so since then I have been shooting just NEF's! I just wondered though, if I did it correctly! I still can't get why AWB adjusted in light room 4 can seem so different, sometimes I like the before look, sometimes I don't! Oh well, I still have lots to learn, especially in processing!



Feb 14, 2013 at 10:19 PM
a.RodriguezPix
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p.2439 #5 · p.2439 #5 · Manual Focus Nikon Glass


kwoodard wrote:
Most people say that it is used to get exposure "right"... I say it is used to get exposure close. When I have used it, I have it within the same light as whatever I am shooting, having the card essentially reflecting the light into the lens. I set aperture, shutter, and ISO to get the little light meter centered. If I shoot with these settings, it usually comes out properly exposed, but a little flat. That is why I say its used to get it close.

I made the mistake of going on a shoot as a helper and
...Show more
Thanks for the information, and time! Yes, for me, I settled on using auto settings on my camera to shoot the grey card, also, i tilted it to absorb the light source I was shooting in, and thank Nikon, my D700 has enough presets to save multiple sources, however, I have been set to just NEF aka RAW to shoot, so I could just adjust in Lightroom, not the best option for everything, I assume, but, it lets me be lazy! I also read using a plain white paper could also set the AWB, but thats another weird learning curve!



Feb 14, 2013 at 10:23 PM
a.RodriguezPix
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p.2439 #6 · p.2439 #6 · Manual Focus Nikon Glass


A Monster of a Drink. A hand held production. Featuring, the Nikon D700 and the ever loved, Nikkor 85mm f/1.4 AIS, cuz we crazy folks do it manually



a Americo.Rodriguez photo-43 by aNikkorGuy, on Flickr



Feb 14, 2013 at 10:35 PM
georgms
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p.2439 #7 · p.2439 #7 · Manual Focus Nikon Glass


kwoodard wrote:
Most people say that it is used to get exposure "right"... I say it is used to get exposure close. When I have used it, I have it within the same light as whatever I am shooting, having the card essentially reflecting the light into the lens. I set aperture, shutter, and ISO to get the little light meter centered. If I shoot with these settings, it usually comes out properly exposed, but a little flat. That is why I say its used to get it close.

I made the mistake of going on a shoot as a helper and
...Show more

Kevin, very nice story! Sometimes I get asked to help somebody with it's digital camera and usually I'm completely lost in the menus.
But it gets worse when I get asked to snap a picture with somebodies smartphone - now that's really deep trouble for me ;-)
I'm glad to hear you could help out.
Btw, I've tried all kind of gizmos to get a proper white-balance, but lately I think that whitebalance and exposure are basically a personal thing - the "technical correct picture", regardless if produced in the camera (JPEG) or later from a RAW, is in many cases not the one with an appealing look. But a grey-card is a good tool as a reference nonetheless.



Feb 14, 2013 at 11:46 PM
georgms
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p.2439 #8 · p.2439 #8 · Manual Focus Nikon Glass


leighton w wrote:
My wife took a photo of our sheep one evening last year. One of our friends who is an outstanding artist saw it on FB and asked if she could make a painting of it. She did and this is the result. She used a combination of paint and different colored strips of magazine paper and clued it to a board. I thinks it's marvelous! The photo was great too.


Leighton, interesting story about this fine picture. I wonder how many (drawing/painting) artists use photographs as a "model". Sometimes I see sketches of scenes for movie-productions and I'm deeply impressed by the pre-visualisation of a scene.
Btw, reproductions like the one from the painting are ideal subjects to work with gray-cards or color-checkers and co.



Feb 14, 2013 at 11:55 PM
georgms
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p.2439 #9 · p.2439 #9 · Manual Focus Nikon Glass


MDoc9523 wrote:
What to do on a rainy day? It looks like it is going to rain all day so I grabbed my 55mm 2.8 Micro and headed out on the patio. My plants are enjoying the long steady watering


Ray, beautiful work with the 55/2.8! I especially like the first shot - so many layers of fresh green perfectly framed.



Feb 14, 2013 at 11:57 PM
georgms
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p.2439 #10 · p.2439 #10 · Manual Focus Nikon Glass


kings_freak wrote:
In the spirit of Valentine's Day, Ganahl changed their sign this week.
"Love is a game that two can play and both win."

�Tony

...


...knock on wood if that's a timber-dealer ;-)

Tony, love the excellent mix between ambient and artificial lights here. The composition is beautiful as well.



Feb 15, 2013 at 12:14 AM
 

Search in Used Dept. 



georgms
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p.2439 #11 · p.2439 #11 · Manual Focus Nikon Glass


Scott, love the nightly reflection! The trees in the snow are beautifully done too. The idea to shoot the same subject again is great.

Samy, very nice sets from the General Mitchell Airport and the Airport Museum. The 35/2 OC is a neat lens, I love mine, but I fear my copy is decentered. Have to do some "test-shots" of something boring with many straight lines like modern German architecture to find out ;-)
The Heinkel-project is not forgotten.

Ben, I like your free-line-shots a lot. While I have seen a few before it's always great to see your tension-filled play with light and shadows. Variations of a given theme are fascinating to look at.

Reagan, the 50/1.8+TC14A-combo surely delivers - love the orchid-image! The 50/1.4 SC was my go-to 50mm for some years, it can be temperamental bokeh-wise, but I still love it. Have fun with your copy!

Mark, cute pictures of your son! I'm not brave enough to shoot sled-action with a MF-Nikkor - hat's off to your focusing skills!

Michael, welcome here! I'm a big fan of your work over at other threads (I have a weak spot for good pictures of wooden, traditional fishing vessels like the one's built and photographed in your beautiful country).
I'm afraid to say that in my opinion the best 20mm-lenses made by Nikon are modern Zoom-Nikkors. The later versions of the 20/3.5 Ai/Ais, the 20/4 and the 20/2.8 might work for you if small size and low weight are more important than pure resolving-power.



Feb 15, 2013 at 12:30 AM
georgms
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p.2439 #12 · p.2439 #12 · Manual Focus Nikon Glass


Mark, Ray, Tony and Scott - thanks for taking the time to comment on the birches in the sunset.

Tony, I've shot a row of vertical images to stitch them together - these shots showed a good bit of ghosting.
The images taken later in horizontal orientation didn't show ghosting, just flare
My 135/3.5 is a banged up, but coated Ai - from the late 70's.
Here's a stitched pano with clearly visible ghosting:




Feb 15, 2013 at 12:43 AM
MDoc9523
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p.2439 #13 · p.2439 #13 · Manual Focus Nikon Glass


I have some Nikon original lens shades for sale if anyone needs them. $15.00 shipped each. Here's a link that shows what lenses they are for.
http://nikomat.org/lens/hiyoke.html
HN-2
HN-7
HN-22
HN-23
HN-24 also fits the 50-135mm



Feb 15, 2013 at 01:01 AM
Mishu01
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p.2439 #14 · p.2439 #14 · Manual Focus Nikon Glass


leighton w wrote:
This is one reason I shoot RAW. So easy to change white balance in post if need be.


Leighton, the gray card is useful for two distinct situations: (1) to pick the right exposure and (2) to pick the right WB. I believe Kevin is addressing the exposure part.

While shooting RAW can give you flexibility to correct the exposure and WB during PP I still find the gray card very helpful in establishing the proper exposure in situations where you have too much white or two much black in the scene. In such as situations the camera lightmeter is driven to nuts especially in matrix metering.

As a particular observation... correcting exposure in PP is OK in a small amount but when one needs to push the slider for two fstops I personally see that the IQ of the image is suffering in comparison with the same image with a proper exposure. That's why I personally consider that my best images are these with proper exposure and WB - and I mostly shoot only RAW.



Feb 15, 2013 at 01:13 AM
a.RodriguezPix
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p.2439 #15 · p.2439 #15 · Manual Focus Nikon Glass



Monster Party by aNikkorGuy, on Flickr



Feb 15, 2013 at 02:01 AM
NightOwl Cat
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p.2439 #16 · p.2439 #16 · Manual Focus Nikon Glass


And Scott Kelby's Photoshop book and LR book both have a gray/grey card in the back that you can pull out and use. I've yet to do that though, nose has been buried in schoolbooks for forever, it seems, but I'm making progress on getting back in the study and learning modes. Been lurking but haven't shot much in the last six weeks.

Mishu01 wrote:
Leighton, the gray card is useful for two distinct situations: (1) to pick the right exposure and (2) to pick the right WB. I believe Kevin is addressing the exposure part.

While shooting RAW can give you flexibility to correct the exposure and WB during PP I still find the gray card very helpful in establishing the proper exposure in situations where you have too much white or two much black in the scene. In such as situations the camera lightmeter is driven to nuts especially in matrix metering.

As a particular observation... correcting exposure in PP is OK in a small
...Show more



Feb 15, 2013 at 02:14 AM
kwoodard
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p.2439 #17 · p.2439 #17 · Manual Focus Nikon Glass


Mishu01 wrote:
Leighton, the gray card is useful for two distinct situations: (1) to pick the right exposure and (2) to pick the right WB. I believe Kevin is addressing the exposure part.

While shooting RAW can give you flexibility to correct the exposure and WB during PP I still find the gray card very helpful in establishing the proper exposure in situations where you have too much white or two much black in the scene. In such as situations the camera lightmeter is driven to nuts especially in matrix metering.

As a particular observation... correcting exposure in PP is OK in a small
...Show more

In my story, I was referring to exposure. I had been in the practice of using one in studio settings for white balance as well.



Feb 15, 2013 at 06:04 AM
Oosty
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p.2439 #18 · p.2439 #18 · Manual Focus Nikon Glass


leighton w wrote:
Yea I know, guilty as charged.

I told the doctor I only had a couple of weeks for this setup, so if it's not better by then, I'll have to live with it. The xrays showed a bone spur on the back of the bone and he said if it got worse he could do surgery. THAT AIN'T GONNA HAPPEN! Around here, if you don't work, you don't eat!


Have you eaten all the lamb nuggets?



Feb 15, 2013 at 06:14 AM
michaelwatkins
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p.2439 #19 · p.2439 #19 · Manual Focus Nikon Glass


Wow, this thread really piles on the posts quickly!

saph wrote:
Michael, one lens to stay away from based on the ghost avoidance requirement would be the 20 3.5UD. My very first look through that lens I saw lots of happy dancing ghosts. Otherwise its a fine lens and of course ghosts work for some people and some scenes.


I don't mind them some of the time but when they show up most of the time ... well, you know.

leighton w wrote:
Judging by your wants/needs I would have to suggest the 20mm f2.8 AI-s as this seems to be the best at distance. The f4 version is well regarded as well. This may help you too. http://www.naturfotograf.com/lens_wide.html


Thank you Leighton. There is a trend in that recommendation I see, which is what I expected too.

jhinkey wrote:
Best sharpness is the 20/2.8 AIS or AF-D, but it does ghost although flare is very very good
Best for flare/ghosting is the 20/3.5 AIS, but as others have noted it's not the sharpest for distant subjects (but very sharp up close).

My best 20/2.8 is actually my 17-35/2.8 AFS set at 20mm - it's better in all regards than the 20/2.8AIS or D regarding sharpness, flare, and ghosting, but it's heavy, large, and much more expensive (like $1K) and it's not a MF Nikkor . . .


Re the 17-25, the large and heavy aspect is more of an issue than cost. How is the 17-35 when used at 35? That's a focal length I use on FX more than any other; I could see myself drifting between 28 and 35 most of the time, although I already own a very good 35.

Hmnn... must... think... more.


Edited on Feb 15, 2013 at 06:28 AM · View previous versions



Feb 15, 2013 at 06:23 AM
digitalthump
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p.2439 #20 · p.2439 #20 · Manual Focus Nikon Glass


First I would like to thank every for their warm welcome to this thread, I see that keeping up with all the images and post will keep me busy!!

I'm enjoying all the fine images that are shared here, keep it up! A couple new lens have arrived;200f4 AIS, 300mm F4 Ai(this thing is tank), and three on the way, 50mmf2 aid, 50mm1.4 AIS, and the 55mm3.5 AI. Hope to be sharing more images soon. Have a question, can these lenses be used in Shutter priority? Doesn't appear to work on my D800. Craig



Feb 15, 2013 at 06:28 AM
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