Upload & Sell: Off
Luka - The last time I shot film, about 8 years ago, I really liked the Fuji 800 color negative films. The 'press' film, for newspaper/general use, was very nice compared to the K0dak equivalent. The NPH version was a bit gentler for wedding/portrait use. Not sure if any of that is still available. At the time those films, particularly NPH, were priced at a premium.
I have limited experience with mini-lab scans but my recollection is that they were often quite high in contrast. And your images are quite high in contrast... but still very nice.
I particularly like 3-5 of the first set and 1& 2 of the second set.
Before I read your posts on this page I was wondering why you'd bother to shoot film for this type of subject when the M9 will provide ample image quality and greater convenience. While there are differences in the look of film and digital, my opinion is that one can get pretty close to the 35mm film look with appropriate PP to digital files. The one area, which I might have mentioned in the past, where I feel film has an advantage is in highlight transitions. Sunsets are a good example where digital has trouble handling the very bright tones around the sun (unless grossly underexposed), but film usually looks great.
Some digital examples - I don't shoot film, therefore can't show any film examples:
Tonal recovery into the sunburst area resulted in poor transitions because at least one channel is already clipped.
Same with the image below:
Some extra work in Photoshop managed to salvage this to some extent:
M9 & ZM21 at Lake Geneva.
Ryan, nice images. Wow, hope you like the 50 Planar. I certainly do, but haven't used anything else on the M9 around 50mm to compare. I'll be interested in your feedback.
One thing I have recently noticed is that of the three Zeiss lenses I own (ZM21 2.8, ZM35C and the 50P), the 50 is the most prone to flare. While the ZM21 will flare with the sun out of the frame, as I illustrated recently for Kyle, the 50 will flare with a bright background (not necessarily specular in nature) out of the frame, often in the following manner:
Note that the sun had already set and this was just twilight glow in the western sky that caused the flare. Therefore I highly recommend using a hood with the 50P with any kind of stronger backlight. I didn't buy the hood for the 50P and am now reconsidering. I might instead adapt the hood that came with the CV75 1.8, which I've tried hand held, and it works. Other than the cost of a step ring, it will save me about $80..
Here's another image - it's a light test outtake from a recent event. I had a strobe off to each side at the stage to give some side light for edge separation of dark clothes against the black curtain. At certain angles to the light (both of which were bounced off white walls) just out of the frame, the 50P would flare:
Hope this helps.
Heinz - interesting mannequin composition!
Malkovic - love the image of the figures on the steps!