Definitely doesn't cover the whole thing, you can see Ellis' closet doors between the body and the dome in his shot. That's probably for cooling purposes, the same way Profoto puts holes in their domes. I don't think it'll make a difference in the quality of the forward-projected light, but there will likely be a 360º hotspot when shooting barebulb without a reflector.
I know it is hard to tell from the photo but all except the very base of the modeling light and the entire flash tube are covered by the dome. the flash tube, which is in the shape of a nearly closed circle, is placed so it is roughly mid-height of the 250 watt Quartz-Halogen modeling light. The back plate behind modeling light and flash tube is a matte finish metal plate with large slots for cooling. Attached to the plate are the 4 clips to hold the dome in place and four spring loaded fingers which do a really tight job of locking reflectors and other modifiers in place. This plate is flush with the front of the Einstein body.
Unlike the Profoto Pyrex protective/ light integrating cover the Einstein dome isn't perforated for ventilation. For this reason I suspect ventilation is the reason the dome is not flush with the back plate. The springy clips which hold it in place must also isolate it from any vibration caused by the Einstein's cooling fan. The Einstein dome shape is a hemisphere with a small flared lip for the locking clips. The Einstein dome is also not as heavily frosted as the Profoto but still does an efficient job of integrating the beam patterns of modeling light and flash with =/-0.1 stop loss of light. If you ever need to replace the dome the process is not as tricky as with the Profoto either. (Ask any Profoto rental agency or school which uses Profoto gear about this: users not being careful has got to be the #1 reason for the Profoto's shell accidentally getting cracked or broken - same with Balcar by the way.)
Another reason may be to prevent cracks in the dome. Speedo domes are perforated but it's *extremely* common to have the pyrex domes crack because of expansion from heat (you usually see this w/ strobes hooked to 2400WS and 4800WS packs)...and I've seen this w/ Broncolor domes too. Paul mentioned the spring clip system was to prevent this a while back when I asked if it was susceptible...
bacilonur wrote:
Definitely doesn't cover the whole thing, you can see Ellis' closet doors between the body and the dome in his shot. That's probably for cooling purposes, the same way Profoto puts holes in their domes. I don't think it'll make a difference in the quality of the forward-projected light, but there will likely be a 360º hotspot when shooting barebulb without a reflector.
I personally did all the mechanical and electronics design for Einstein. Only the programming was done by consultants.
The cooling design is very thorough. All cooling paths are equal to or greater than the surface area of the fan. This includes the space between the dome and the back plate. Dome cooling is provided by Venturi effect . . the air enters the dome via radial slots in the back panel and the geometry causes the air to flow around the inner surface of the dome and out the space between dome and back plate, cooling the dome and lamps efficiently. The dome, flashtube and modeling lamp are all Pyrex, and the flashtube and modeling lamp get much hotter than the dome.
Heat expansion of a rigidly mounted part is always a concern. Perforating the dome does not prevent cracking potential caused by heat expansion, but allows spots of light to escape and reduce the diffusion effect of the dome. To this end, the dome is held in place by spring clips that allow for thermal expansion with no stress on the dome. Same for mechanical shock to the dome. It is easily replaced and inexpensive if a failure ever occurs.
We have done extreme duty testing and have never seen any deterioration of the dome and are confident in its integrity and can say it is extremely effective in diffusing the light and protecting the lamps. It has no measurable light reduction and also serves to add UV reduction to the already UV coated flashtube. It also serves to satisfy international regulations to provide a glass safety shield over quartz halogen modeling lamps . . . . a requirement not satisfied by most flash units that feature an exposed quartz modeling lamp.
E-Vener wrote:
I know it is hard to tell from the photo but all except the very base of the modeling light and the entire flash tube are covered by the dome. the flash tube, which is in the shape of a nearly closed circle, is placed so it is roughly mid-height of the 250 watt Quartz-Halogen modeling light. The back plate behind modeling light and flash tube is a matte finish metal plate with large slots for cooling. Attached to the plate are the 4 clips to hold the dome in place and four spring loaded fingers which do a really tight job of locking reflectors and other modifiers in place. This plate is flush with the front of the Einstein body.
Unlike the Profoto Pyrex protective/ light integrating cover the Einstein dome isn't perforated for ventilation. For this reason I suspect ventilation is the reason the dome is not flush with the back plate. The springy clips which hold it in place must also isolate it from any vibration caused by the Einstein's cooling fan. The Einstein dome shape is a hemisphere with a small flared lip for the locking clips. The Einstein dome is also not as heavily frosted as the Profoto but still does an efficient job of integrating the beam patterns of modeling light and flash with =/-0.1 stop loss of light. If you ever need to replace the dome the process is not as tricky as with the Profoto either. (Ask any Profoto rental agency or school which uses Profoto gear about this: users not being careful has got to be the #1 reason for the Profoto's shell accidentally getting cracked or broken - same with Balcar by the way.) ...Show more →
I use profoto, and honestly I've taken the dome off and put it back on a few times just out of curiosity, and it's not to bad to take off and put on.
adamdewilde wrote:
I use profoto, and honestly I've taken the dome off and put it back on a few times just out of curiosity, and it's not to bad to take off and put on.
I use Profoto too, and you and I and others are probably very careful so we haven't broken a dome , but I know others are not and have seen what happens.
Note rigid mount and no Venturi effect. plus less air escape path than Einstein. Also, the hole allow spots of non diffused light and the rather opaque material reduces light output. Einstein domes have no opacity - only diffusion via frosting.
Paul, I remember you said the next round will be 1000 units? Is my memory correct? Any ideas when these will be shipping? Also any idea when spare flash tubes will be avail?
You mean the light modifier to head mounting system? I think this is the strongest mechanical aspect of the Profoto head design and has been there since they were first introduced back in the late 1960s. I find it superior and more secure to many brands in the same price ranges. What ido not like is that several years ago Profoto moved the stand mount back behind the head so the combined weigh of the head and modifier is now completely unbalanced and the center of gravity is not even close to being directly over the stand column. If you are using the head in a scissors type mount for m the ceiling it can also cause issues. I liked the old way they had for mounting heads which disappeared I think when the Pro 6 replaced the Pro 5.
Agreed. Only problem I ever had was the little metal wire on the latch handle coming apart when I was tightening a Mola one time, made for a slightly embarrassing moment.
Ellis, they did that so that you could zoom out any modifier way back to the 10 position. You can remedy that by getting a spare Compact mount and attaching it in the center, which will limit your D4/Pro head to just a couple inches of zooming, a little less than an AcuteB head.
Right, I guess they just wanted to make the whole unit pack smaller without that Wimberley-like mount, but then they took that saved sized and made the head even longer for more zooming action. My dream head would probably have Dynalite 4040's size and weight and pigtails and cable thickness with Profoto's mount and umbrella hole.
I like the idea of the removable stand mount, great if you are using it with an El Octa or one of the big Mola s. Maybe Profoto needs to rethink their design.
As you can see in the pdf the head to stand mount assembly on Profotos from the Pro 6 on is vastly simplified over the older system, no doubt lowering manufacturing costs.
E-Vener wrote:
As you can see in the pdf the head to stand mount assembly on Profotos from the Pro 6 on is vastly simplified over the older system, no doubt lowering manufacturing costs.
But doesn't seem to have lowered the retail price
If I'm paying $10,000.00 for a Pro 8a pack than paying $25.00/$50.00 more for a Pro 8 head ain't a BFD. If I'm paying $2,640.00 for an AcuteB 600R it ain't no BFD. The AcuteB head is $819.00, raising the price wouldn't deter many buyers. http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ntt=AcuteB&N=0&InitialSearch=yes
Brise, Bron and Profoto prices are not what you would call "bargain basement."
Can one even purchase Briese gear? My understanding is that was strictly rental and a tech had to come along with it.
If the old mount cost $25.00 in maerials and labor by the time t gets to a retail store shelf youhave to add in mark up for the manufacturer, distributor,and retailer. This markup isn't just profit. (nothing wrong with being in business and making a profit) but also various forms of overhead expenses like import duties, warehouse space, salaries, insurances, marketing, transportation. etc. So it might end up adding not $25 or $50 to the price but more like $100-200.00.
