Just got an octabank - the big boy.
When I put it on top of the stand, the umbrella points up a little.
There doesn't seem to be a way for it to angle down.
Can't for the life of me figure out what the problem it.
(Guy I bought it from pointed it out to me, too.)
Anyone else have that problem?
Thanks!
Ha - nevermind - just figured it out.
In case anyone else has the same problem - there is a silver knob on the plastic portion that when loosened allows you to rotate how the umbrella opens. That allows the umbrella to get to a position where it can be angles down.
Thanks!
For future reference, you can easily swap out the Eli knuckle with an Avenger D200 for a rock solid mount. Very quick, secure and completely obviates the need to over-tighten.
Oooh wow - nice. Great idea.
Thanks Carmen.
Yeah with a 400bx monolight in there the factory issue knuckle seems a little flimsy. Like something could snap by changing the angle - which is tough to gauge when you are behind the umbrella. That Avenger d200 looks like a pro way to go.
Thanks!!
I don't think you have to worry about it breaking the mount, but there is zero deflection with the D200. A simple turn locks mod into place with no residual creep, thus minimizing the need to reposition or over tighten. The other plus is that the receiver on the D200 is longer and works much better IMO for feathering the light, which is a common practice with this mod.
Hey David, I've got a ton of those exact Mole rollers.
Oh, and just some friendly advice in case you ever get curious: Under no circumstances do you ever want to unscrew the 8 screws in the speedring in order to swap out the mount. Luckily for me, the inner diameter of the speedring matches Dynalite's almost perfectly and makes for a much better fit than their $80 adapter:
I look forward to modding it up with the D200 - turns out I just picked up a few of those used last week - so perfect timing. Feathering the light with the Octabank - interesting. I'll have to try that. All I know about how to use one is pretty much from watching the creepy english guy on youtube.
Haha thanks Bacilonur for the heads up about not unscrewing the speedring. I put the big boy away, but I'm guessing that all the umbrella ribs would go flying. The wheels on the mole unfortunately don't roll on my carpet - but works great with a sand bag to hold down the octabank. Certainly it's a ton better than the chinese stands I got - one of which's metal lever just snapped off. I got to see the metal they used which looked more like plastic.
And what a pleasure it was to use the digital read out of the Elinchrom 400bx - compared to the sliders on my alien bees! I
David-Z wrote:
And what a pleasure it was to use the digital read out of the Elinchrom 400bx - compared to the sliders on my alien bees! I
David,
I've been singing the praises of digital control (and taking some heat for it too) ever since I got my first 400BX too and I haven't looked back since. IMO, it's only a matter of time before all studio lights are digital. The 400BX is a real work horse and one of my all time faves. However, the RX600 or even the 500BXRi would be a significant improvement in operation when used inside a diffused EL-Octa since output and modeling lights are controlled on these units externally via wireless Skyport system. Because of the internal design and indirect nature of the Octa, it works better with a pack head (I'm even using a Quadra head ) or a monolight that can be controlled externally. Something I'm sure you will find out soon enough on your own, but thought others who are interested might want to know.
I don't want to hijack this thread, but I do have a question about the output of the Quadra head through the 190 Octa. Is there enough power to make good use of the big Octa using the Quadra head?
I was using a 400bx - same power as the quadra head I believe (400ws) and could get 5.6 my model from 15 feet away. I believe I had a full stop to spare on the monolight. Hope that helps.
... follow up. Just checked it on another shoot and with the monolight maxed out I got F8.5 at about 12 - 15 feet. And that's with the diffusion on it.
Thanks for that information David, it's what I've been searching the net for. I don't suppose you could tell us what ISO these figures are at, can you?
Steve Wylie wrote:
Is there enough power to make good use of the big Octa using the Quadra head?
Here's a few reasons why it works for me:
1. I like to use this mod very close to my subjects (often within a few feet) for a beautiful soft wrapping light.
2. What the Octa loses in efficiency as a indirect light is made up for the fact that it doesn't require either secondary diffusion for uniformity or a front diffuser for enhanced specularity.
3. As a soft "north light", the mod also works nicely for shallow DOF and low key work.
4. The Octa has a wide feather zone that maintains efficiency and control over a very broad area, maximizing it's usability within the available power range.
There are always times that call for more power, like high key or groups, but those situations often call for more or different mods as well.
Even though 400ws will get you by with this box, a 600 or 1200ws can be a better choice for quicker recycle and higher modeling light output, which is very important to me with it's special feathering capability.
While the Quadra will work fine in this box, the lack of serious modeling light is not a insignificant disadvantage if you're unfamiliar with the mod.
Of course this comes from someone who considers minimum ISO 200 to be a more serious limiting factor in typical studio lighting scenarios than a lack of power, so take it FWIW.
Carmen Miranda wrote:
I've been singing the praises of digital control (and taking some heat for it too) ever since I got my first 400BX too and I haven't looked back since. IMO, it's only a matter of time before all studio lights are digital.
Yes - there is no possible way I could ever consider buying another strobe after using the digital controls on the 400bx. My alien bees with the sliders will be dinosaurs in just a few years - if not already.Thank you for the suggestion of going totally wireless. I am sweating one or two RX units with skyports but need to make a buck or two first from all this to afford anything else lol. And I don't know how someone could possibly give you any heat for preferring digital.
) or a monolight that can be controlled externally. Something I'm sure you will find out soon enough on your own, but thought others who are interested might want to know.