I just shot a marching band competition this past weekend with a 300 2.8. So we're talking about 20,000 300mm binge portraits.
Unless you need to take portraits from afar for whatever reason or want crazy background blur that you won't get with a shorter lens, I'm not sure why you'd need such a long lens. If you're used to shooting portraits with a shorter lens like a 70-200, you'll find that 300mm gets really tight, really quick.
I prefer shorter lenses so that it would allow me to get closer to my subjects.
As far as sample images, I'm reviewing my shots now and may post a few up shortly.
I took a couple headshots with this lens way back in the day before I knew what I was doing. It was nice enough, IQ wise, but the focal length is not very practical for portrait purposes.
A 135L gives better results in more situations, and is far more practical in terms of working distance and aperture.
deepbluejh wrote:
I took a couple headshots with this lens way back in the day before I knew what I was doing. It was nice enough, IQ wise, but the focal length is not very practical for portrait purposes.
A 135L gives better results in more situations, and is far more practical in terms of working distance and aperture.
that is a good observation... damn the 135mm have gone up in price over the last two years
however, isnt the depth of field at 135 @ 2.0 more shallow than the 300 @ 4.0?
what if i am trying to get two people in focus and still try to maintain the creamy bokeh... is that possible?
Yes longer lenses at the same framing and f/stop will give the same DOF, but a more blurred background. If I was to estimate, I'd say the 135 at f/2.5 or so would give the same amount of blur as the 300 at f/4.0 (this is a huge guess )
I'm currently debating getting a 200 f/2L IS or a 300 f/2.8L IS for portraits, just to get that blurry background and telephoto compression
I find that the 85L II shots force me to get too close sometimes. At f/1.2, the keeper rate for focus is extremely low on a 5D Mark II, I keep on having to burn through the shutter to get in focus pics
The decisive factor for me may be my cheap ebay tiggers...I think they won't have the range to handle the 300mm FOV
300mm will be very challenging for portraits because of the distance required. As you increase the distance from the subject, obstacles can get in the way, elevations change (you're too high or too low), stray objects in the foreground enter in the frame, it's unlikely that a pleasing fill flash effect can be (easily) achieved from that distance...
Another option is a larger negative. For example, a 200mm lens on a 645 has about the same FOV as a 135mm lens on a 35mm camera. Mostly likely with the 200mm lens on 645 you'll step into the shot, further boosting the shallow DOF effect.
I vote for the 135L on a FF dSLR. And if you have the time (and inclination), research medium format. It might be a good fit for your vision & style.
Near/far size perspective is a function of relative distances between the near and far objects. In portraiture shooting from further back will make the nose appear smaller relative to the ears in an full face pose, or when the face is at an oblique angle make the far side of the face look larger than it would relative to the nearer nose when shot from a closer distance.
All faces are different shapes, some more naturally symmetrical than others, and part of finding the most flattering look involves looking at the five "prime" views of a person's face -- left profile, left oblique, full, right oblique, left profile -- from different shooting distances to let your brain, by comparison, tell you which is most flattering. WIth experience you'll be able to look at a face and know when shooting from further away with a long lens would be more flattering.
The conventional wisdom for portrait FL of 85-150mm is based on a FF 35mm camera producing in camera crops ranging from loose H&S to tight head shots from a distance of around 8ft, which produces "normal" (as seen by eye) perspective. With the 300mm you will find that by the time you get far enough back to get the desired in-camera crop it will be so far away that noticeable near/far size distortion will be evident.
KKFung wrote: Why it still can come out in "view previous version"??
And I can't find a way to totally delete my post?
Your browser has the old one cached. Unless you change the file name it will not know the photo has changed. You need to clear your browser's cache to force it to download the newer version. You can also change preferences to download images fresh each time, but that will repeatedly download all the screen wigets on pages and slow things down.
Threads can only be deleted if they are the last message in the thread. Formerly thread messages could be deleted by the author at anytime but that created continuity problems and the policy was changed.
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Why it still can come out in "view previous version"??