If you shoot in Manual mode does the type of metering you select matter for the exposure of the picture ?
An example:
Bright object against a dark BG.
Focus on the bright object.
scenario 1:
Meter set to matrix, Manual mode and set ss,aperture and iso to zero out the exposure meter....Take the pic
scenario 2:
Now change the meter to spot and continue to focus on the bright object leaving the ss,aperture and iso the same from scenario 1. The exposure meter is no longer zeroed out(not a surprise).
Take the pic. Will the exposure be the same as scenario 1 ?
from my experience, #1 will more then likely underexpose the subject that is bright in this case. Why? Because it is metering the while scene which means it will more then likely try to expose so that the background will show up.
#2 will expose properly for the bright subject but the background will probably be dark since it is metering for the subject.
In both cases, I would probably use flash if you can. First expose for the background which will underexpose the subject. The flash will come into play which will expose the subject properly thus giving u a well balanced photo.
If i'm reading you right, the exposure will be exactly the same because you left the SS, Aperature, and ISO exactly the same as scenario 1. If one of those doesn't change, your picture won't change. All the meter does is measure, it doesn't influence.
And as User954 said, the subject will be underexposed (except in both scenarios)
The proper thing to do from your scenario is to meter for the subject (spot/center) and set accordingly, or bracket the whole thing and merge it together in post process. You'll end up overexposing everything else if you meter for the subject though. You will probably want to read the histogram and see if you can adjust your settings accordingly to get everything into the histogram without significantly over/under exposing then using dlighting or mucking around with the curve to retrieve that information.
The response from the camera will be the same....as you didnt change any settings and in maual....the cameras brain is shut off, so it will not try to change the settings.
So the meter reading will change but the exposure you chose (being in manual) will stay till you physically change it.
After all that is done and said....your subject might not be metered correctly based on either scenerio.
i am still confused:
if your choice of ss, aperture and iso was based off of the 1st meter settings (scenario 1 ) and the meter changes how can the image still be exposed correctly.
and i understand none of those 3 variables (ss,aperture, or iso) is changed by the meter in Manual mode
Ah...you didnt ask if it was exposed properly, you asked if the exposure would be the same. Completly diffrent questions.
The meter can dance around telling you many diffrent things based on your camera configuration.
For this scene your talking about I would do the following (for an outside setting)
I would first choose what the most important part of the picture is. (the main subject) and I would find a way to expose for that.
For me as a landscape shooter I would find somthing in the scene that if converted to grayscale (no color) it would be medium grey or close to it. (IE grass is a wonderful thing to meter off of) Use my spot meter, zoom in and meter off of that, and then zoom back and take pictures with confidence that I have properly metered my subject.
If you find an artistic reason to change (thinking maybe silloueting or Hi-Key lighting might be better to present your subject) you will be able to make decisions off your base exposure.
The meter is changing because it's analyzing it differently. Matrix mode looks at the entire scene that the sensor sees and gives you a 'good balance' to expose as much of the scene properly as possible. When you change it to spot, it's looking at one tiny spot and evaluating the best way to expose only that spot.
So, scenario 1, your meter is saying... well.. we can go either go after the light background or the light subject (although it doesn't know it's a subject). On the assumption that the meter is dumb (and Nikon's metering doesn't seem to be that), it will expose properly for the vast majority of the scene, the bright background. Therefore your dark subject will be underexposed.
Now when you switch to spot metering and put it on the subject, it evalutes how much light you need to expose ONLY that tiny spot that you have it staring at. It completely ignores everything else.
So, in scenario 1 the subject would be underexposed. Now since you're not changing anything and putting the spot meter on the subject, it should say in scenario 2 that you need to overexpose by some amount of light from your current settings. As you increase your aperature, decrease your shutter speed, or increase iso (all ways to increase the amount of light hitting the sensor), you will bring that meter back to zero because then it will be happy! But when you take the shot, your background will be overexposed.
Now if you hold those new settings and switch back to matrix, it should show that you need to underexpose by exactly the same amount as you had just adjusted it from scenario 1 to scenario 2.
And i'm still personally not sure on what the question is so I hope that either Roman or myself hit it. If I were shooting the scene i'd make a decision of what's more important to me, the subject or the background and expose accordingly. Or use a reflector or a little flash to brighten up the subject so it's closer to the background.
Yep... it all matters! I generally use spot metering, try to meter of something fairly neutral, and confirm exposure with both the histogram and highlight warning turned on. This helps greatly in confirming exposure.
Randy: If you meter the subject with spot metering and then use matrix you will get two different readings unless the subject is of a middle tonality. I have found the explanations given to you very accurate in addressing your concern.
I find that even in the digital era exposure of the subject continues to be an issue and many photographers tend to use their cameras in matrix metering expecting that their exposures will always be correct.
As was very well explained to you once you set your aperture and shutter speed in manual you can spend the day shooting with those settings because the settings will not change. The meter will look crazy metering different subjects but your exposure will remain the same unless you make corrections.
On regard to bright subjects that are important I always meter from them and watch the histogram. I tend to compensate the exposure by opening one stop only and then I make adjustments in Levels if I am kind of short, something I usually aim for to guarantee I do not clip my highlights.
