I'm looking at getting some soft boxes for portrait work.
Are there any that work good with flashes like the 580? There are so many out there, but the bigger ones I wonder if they would work well, or if I should consider buying more powerful flashes?
I plan to shoot indoor (studio) and outdoor portrait with them.
I have 2 off-camera (PW controlled) Canon 580's that I like to use. They are light, quick to setup and fairly cheap. So I am hoping to be able to stick with them.
Nowhere man,
All depends on what you are shooting, one person groups etc. the flash you have should work for you.
I picked this one up last week, its very nice and portable.
Thanks for the replies. Do you guys have to use some sort of adapter rings to be able to attach them to the flash units and how sturdy is the attachment?
1: No speed ring needed. The flash sits inside, even with the "big" 50" unit.
2: You get better spread / diffusion of the light, because the flash points towards the back and bounces off a silver surface, before hitting the sides & front panel. This is important because a Speedlight has a built-in fresnel that directs the light forward, as opposed to a strobe which uses a bare bulb.
Some other designs (Lumiquest, etc) add a thicker piece in the center of the front, to even things out. Photoflex offers a special dome, which goes over the Speedlight & spreads its output nicely. Unfortunately, both of these solutions cost you some light, and is still not as good.
--------
The Apollo JS series has 3 disadvantages-
1: The Speedlight is enclosed, so to make any adjustments you have to open up a velcro'd flap. Not a huge deal, but it seems to bother some folks.
2: Because the flash is enclosed, it will not work with ETTL, though most folks like to work in manual mode anyway.
3: You can't use the same modifiers with monolights & flash heads, so if you use both you will have to buy twice as many modifiers.
---------------
I'm currently looking at the Photoflex systems, which can easily be used for all lights. There are many other options, but Photoflex seems to have a very good design vs price (esp vs the Magic Slipper) and they answer tech emails quickly and in detail. They also have really excellent tutorials on their website. I'm just liking this company.
FWIW- I am also considering the more expensive line from Photoflex that is made for hot (movie) lights. They also work fine for still photography, but if I ever get serious about DSLR video, I can switch-in 1,000 watt heads and use the same modifiers. That's a nice option.
Can you tell me which particular model of Apollo and which from Photoflex?
I like the idea of being able to use the same stuff on monolights, should I move to those more powerful lights in the future, so I'm leaning towards those. I shoot all manual and lifting the velcro is not a big deal for adjustments.
Update: When I spoke of the Apollo, above, I meant the Apollo JS, which is specifically designed for Speedlights. (I amended my post) The "plain" Apollo line (which I didn't know existed until Sid's post) is a completely different design. Looks good, too. Definitely an alternative to the Photoflex.
Sid, what specific hotshoe adapter and speedring are you using, and which Speedlight?
Cableaddict wrote:
The Apollo JS series has 2 advantages-
1: No speed ring needed. The flash sits inside, even with the "big" 50" unit.
2: You get better spread / diffusion of the light, because the flash points towards the back and bounces off a silver surface, before hitting the sides & front panel. This is important because a Speedlight has a built-in fresnel that directs the light forward, as opposed to a strobe which uses a bare bulb.
Some other designs (Lumiquest, etc) add a thicker piece in the center of the front, to even things out. Photoflex offers a special dome, which goes over the Speedlight & spreads its output nicely. Unfortunately, both of these solutions cost you some light, and is still not as good.
--------
The Apollo JS series has 3 disadvantages-
snip
2: Because the flash is enclosed, it will not work with ETTL, though most folks like to work in manual mode anyway.
I use a Wescott Apollo softbox which is enclosed as you describe and pointed to the rear for great diffusion qualities but I'm using the ETTL with a ST-E2 without any problems indoors and have even used it at close range outdoors. Maybe I'm lucky or just confused but it works fine. Of course I haven't used it in sunlight or at extreme distances either.
Yep, 28" apollo here as well. With PW and WL1600 or with 1 or 2 580II's with radio poppers. Using the RP's lets you adjust power without have to open up the front of the softbox, which is nice if you are outside and moving around a lot. I use it on a monopod quite a bit with the speedlight, and while it is kinda awkward sometimes, it still works out pretty well. And the light from it is amazing!
No speedring is needed when using this with my Alien Bee. The softbox opens up, and I just slip the umbrella rod into the umbrella holder on the AB.
I'm using a regular Bogen/Manfrotto Umbrella Adapter for my speedlight setup. Bracket runs about 25 bucks.
Sid, that's brilliant! B&H, Adorama, and even Westcott told me that you can't use strobes with these boxes. They didn't think of this work-around. So simple.
You should definitely send these pics to Westcot.
I'm not a huge Paul Buff fan, but this idea, with Einsteins & a cyber-commander, would be fantatsic. You wouldn't have to open up the box to make adjustments.
Cableaddict wrote:
Photoflex offers a special dome, which goes over the Speedlight & spreads its output nicely. Unfortunately, both of these solutions cost you some light, and is still not as good.
Can you please provide a link or more info about this photoflex adapter?
Nice thing I see with photoflex SB is that same works with my ABs and 550ex. And I can use grids if I want to. Some others SB for hot shoe flash don't have option of grids if one needs them.
shutterbug guy wrote: I use a Wescott Apollo softbox which is enclosed as you describe and pointed to the rear for great diffusion qualities but I'm using the ETTL with a ST-E2 without any problems indoors and have even used it at close range outdoors. Maybe I'm lucky or just confused but it works fine.
Good to know, Roger. However, I have read several reports of it NOT working, even indoors. I guess it depends upon the angle to the key light, how much ambient light, etc. Bottom line is that it can be problematic. Then again, using some kind of radio system with adjustable power (the new poppers, the cyber commander, the new Skyport) is a much better solution, anyway. I can't imagine using infrared anymore (looking to switch very soon) except for very high sync speeds.
