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Archive 2009 · 5D/FD85L combo
  
 
cogitech
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p.6 #1 · p.6 #1 · 5D/FD85L combo


JimBuchanan wrote:
Andrew, I think that was me who performed all those conversions for you.



I was a bit confused a bit by the thank you, as well. i just assumed I had inspired Andrew in some way to do the conversions himself, or that he had improvised with my 58/1.2 guide.



Jun 27, 2009 at 04:54 PM
Andrew Gough
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p.6 #2 · p.6 #2 · 5D/FD85L combo


cogitech wrote:
I was a bit confused a bit by the thank you, as well. i just assumed I had inspired Andrew in some way to do the conversions himself, or that he had improvised with my 58/1.2 guide.



Jim, did the conversions for me on the 85's & the 24's. I originally converted a 58mm myself using your directions, recently I purchased the Jims conversion for the 58's that I own, because it is a cleaner approach. I am planning to use the old 58mm conversion that I did on the 40mm if I can get it to work. I was attributing my thanks to you for the resulting additions to my collection and the associated cost...




Jun 27, 2009 at 05:03 PM
pengland
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p.6 #3 · p.6 #3 · 5D/FD85L combo


Jim, I just finished converting one of each of MC Rokkor-X 85 f1.7, the FD85/1.8 SSC, and the Minolta 85/2.0. They are all great and each have something unique to their drawing style. The rear element retention ring on the FD85 SSC has to be cut down to clear a stock 5D mirror.
I have developed a "non-machining" method for nFD lense conversion. I found that the 50mm f1.2, 50mm f1.4, 135mm f2 and the 100mm f2.8 have essentially identical mounting configurations. I have developed precise templates and spacers in AutoCAD and get them reproduced on a laser sign cutting machine. The screw template is laid on the back of an M42 to EOS adapter and its elliptical hole is aligned with the corresponding adapter locking pin hole. Then a marker is used to mark screw position for exact placement and concentric positioning so that the lens is positioned correctly to the camera and the adapter holes line up exactly with the stock mounting holes (3 or 4 depending on the lens). The adapter spacer is made of the same rigid, durable plastic sign stock and has holes that align with the screw holes but in a mirrored orientation to the screw template. The thickness of the spacer is 1.33mm and puts the lens well within the infinity stop positioning range. Usually it is only necessary to back it off a few millimeters when tuning to infinity. Using this method, I converted three nFD lenses in about 2hrs (many hours went into the template development) once the initial design was developed. The spacer is black plastic and the laser cutting process gives the outer diameter the same kind of knurled look as the EOS adapter. As the outer diameter is exactly the same diameter as the EOS adapter it gives a very nice finished look.
The time to convert is mostly that which is required to gain aperture control (I have developed a couple of quick, reliable steps there too), convert the stock holes to M2 and to drill and countersink the holes in the EOS adapter.
I have also developed similar screw positioning templates for the FD SSC series, FL series as well as for the Minolta 50mm f1.2. I plan to develop more to cover the Rokkor series.

JimBuchanan wrote:
Lots of 85-90 possibilites here for me to consider, as I'm not going to regrind my brand new 5D mirror for just one lens. Thought about the 'lux 80, Rokkor 85, converting the FD85/1.8, even the minolta 85/2.0. APO R90 cron is too expensive.

One of my first lens conversions was the FD 17mm. I think the digital sensors were too much for it in the corners.

BTW, since I'm not going forward with another short mirror mod, this perfectly converted FD50L, I have just finished, will be for sale, if anyone is interested.




Jun 27, 2009 at 07:09 PM
JimBuchanan
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p.6 #4 · p.6 #4 · 5D/FD85L combo


Wow, I'm impressed.

Yep, a lot of the FD backs are very similiar.

Very interesting application of the laser sign cutting machine.

Your right on the money with the FD spacer thickness. There is a .020" lip on the outside that acts as a race for the aperture ring.

To get true concentricity of the bolt patterns, I turn the pieces.

The FD aperture "fingers" are really time consumming and vary from lens to lens.

How about using that sign laser machine to develop a technique for cutting about 2mm off the leading edge of a 5D mirror Then, I can think about getting another FD85L.



Jun 27, 2009 at 07:53 PM
wayne seltzer
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p.6 #5 · p.6 #5 · 5D/FD85L combo


Andrew,
how do you like your contax N 85? How does it compare to the FD 85 or 85L?



Jun 27, 2009 at 08:22 PM
pengland
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p.6 #6 · p.6 #6 · 5D/FD85L combo


JimBuchanan wrote:
Wow, I'm impressed.

Yep, a lot of the FD backs are very similiar.

Very interesting application of the laser sign cutting machine.

Your right on the money with the FD spacer thickness. There is a .020" lip on the outside that acts as a race for the aperture ring.

To get true concentricity of the bolt patterns, I turn the pieces.

The FD aperture "fingers" are really time consumming and vary from lens to lens.

How about using that sign laser machine to develop a technique for cutting about 2mm off the leading edge of a 5D mirror Then, I can think about getting
...Show more

Believe me...I thought of mirror cutting and tried cutting glass. It will etch it....but won't cut it. I suspect that multiple passes would cause glass to shatter.

After marking the screw holes I like to put the adapter on the lathe to make a light "following groove" on the pitch circle. I then use a sharp center punch at the "cross" that is formed to ensure that the drill bit starts at the right spot.



Jun 27, 2009 at 08:36 PM
wayne seltzer
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p.6 #7 · p.6 #7 · 5D/FD85L combo


Paul,Jim, and Pengland,

Since you are on the topic of making aperture control levers.
Any ideas on how I could add an aperture control lever to my converted ZA 135 1.8 lens? Here is a picture of insides without the mount plate and then with my converted mount home made with parts from an old nikon-EOS adapter.
TIA.
Image 345499 not found



Image 345500 not found



Image 345501 not found





Jun 27, 2009 at 08:44 PM
 

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JimBuchanan
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p.6 #8 · p.6 #8 · 5D/FD85L combo


Having not seen a ZA 135 before, It's hard for me to understand from the photos what rotates to control the aperture.


Jun 27, 2009 at 10:47 PM
wayne seltzer
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p.6 #9 · p.6 #9 · 5D/FD85L combo


In the 2nd picture you can see the aperture lever sticking up to the right of the orange dot.
That aperture lever is sticking up from a metal ring which rotates around the rear element and controls the aperture.
I need to create some metal arm which connects to this lever and brings it to the outside of the lens so I can adjust the aperture from outside the lens. Something like Mark must have done on his version 2 nikon G-eos adapter.Prefer not to have to cut any slots in side of lens wall.



Jun 27, 2009 at 11:22 PM
JimBuchanan
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p.6 #10 · p.6 #10 · 5D/FD85L combo


That's a tough one. So, there is no aperture ring at all, due to it being controlled by the camera. The last photo with EF back, does it give infinity? If there was some leeway and infinity adjustment screws, a spacer say 2mm thick shaped like a "C" could be sandwiched in between the lens body and EF back. Then, an extension of the aperture fin out thru the opening could control the aperture in a non-detent manner. Make sense?

What is the orange ring made out of?



Jun 27, 2009 at 11:32 PM
pengland
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p.6 #11 · p.6 #11 · 5D/FD85L combo


Because of not wanting to create an opening in the side wall I believe Jim's suggestion is your only option. Given enough space you might be able to fit a "donor" or specially machined and knurled aperture ring in between the body and adapter. This ring would not only need thickness to be able to operate with your fingertips, but also would likely need to have a shallow depth to clear your adapter screws. I figure you would need about 3mm as an absolute minimum thickness. I don't believe there would be enough adjustment for infinity in the lens to accommodate for this much added space.

The other option would be to machine a spigot or notch radially around the body of the lens where the adapter sits against it. This would provide room for the thickness of an aperture ring and the connection to the lever would still be made through a much narrower gap between the adapter and lens body. It would also give the aperture ring a proper running groove which could be equipped with a hole to house a tiny spring and ball bearing for an aperture ring detent. You would also need to keep in mind that full range of rotation would be limited by the mounting screws. In other words, you would need to plan the connection such that you would get full aperture control within the radial distance between adjacent mounting screws. It is also very unlikely that any previous aperture scale on a donor ring would have any meaningful correlation to your actual aperture position. You could make your own though.

One more thing that might need to be considered is the provision for mechanical limits. Most aperture control mechanisms provide a "hard" limit in the wide open and fully stopped down position in order to prevent damage to the less robust aperture linkage components. This provision may already be built in but you need to check and provide your own if there isn't anything there now.



Jun 28, 2009 at 12:20 AM
wayne seltzer
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p.6 #12 · p.6 #12 · 5D/FD85L combo


The Sony ZA mount register distance is only 2mm larger than the Canon.
So not alot of room to play with. Especially since the orignial Sony mount plate actually fits inside of the lens wall and attaches to mount plates so that the top of the sony mount plate is level with the orange top of the the wall. I used a cheap non-pro fotodiox nikon-eos adapter and removed the extra plate to make it thinner and then drilled new holes to match the ZA mount. The new adapter sits on top of the orange wall and I get perfect infinity focus. I did it this way because I couldn't find any metal spacers with that diameter of the wall to fit inside and then attach the new mount to it. Either way it looks like I would have to carve a slot into the top of the wall in the small region where the aperture lever travels back in forth. Yes, the distance it travels is small and similar to my 14-24 G. There are hard stops for max and min aperture values. The other part is how do I fashion some new mini aperture button to go on the outside and be snug enough not to change values.



Jun 28, 2009 at 01:26 AM
mawz
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p.6 #13 · p.6 #13 · 5D/FD85L combo


Minolta/Sony A mount register is 44.5mm, which is 0.5mm longer than Canon EF


Jun 28, 2009 at 02:03 AM
wayne seltzer
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p.6 #14 · p.6 #14 · 5D/FD85L combo


Thanks Mawz, that's correct, I remembered wrong.


Jun 28, 2009 at 02:27 AM
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