Graham, thanks i defenetly let you know if i go to Tallinn. Do you have mamiya adapter for your DIGITAL BACK? I quess the best result will be with Phase One P65+ since it is almost the full frame back and i really want to find out what the defocus would be with the such huge image capture area.
Andre, i really like the creamy/fat defocus at certain focus distances. At this point i am still studying how to get the best result out of this combo, hope there will be more perfect pics, soon. (Already find out that it needs more contrasty film like velvia/provia not the Ektar or Kodak)
Ed, actually it is not quite biotar type lens, every fast lens with huge sferical front glass will make the same swirly foreground or even the whole image.
check this
rokkor 85 1.7
__http://album.foto.ru:8080/photos/or/41852/560189.jpg
and yes i have removed the rear floating element. I will check the frame coverage with normal ef converted fd 85 1.2L. It is easy to check with white a4 office paper (just draw the rectangle with 645 frame sides and take the lens in hand and move it closer to the paper at the lens infinity focus position).
biotar, i really like idea to have fast lens with the larger image area and this lens has all what i need for such convertion - also it is possible to convert 135mm or 180mm lenses from 35mm format for medium format cameras.
Dim.ka_ wrote:
Graham, thanks i defenetly let you know if i go to Tallinn. Do you have mamiya adapter for your DIGITAL BACK? I quess the best result will be with Phase One P65+ since it is almost the full frame back and i really want to find out what the defocus would be with the such huge image capture area.
No, but I'm on the lookout for a cheap Mamiya adapter. Would be fun to use the Mamiya as an experimental platform for things like this. Hopefully we could put all the gear together some day.
I'd love to have a 645 size back but can only offer you 48x36mm at this stage
wiregen, as Leon has already said - i removed the last element, because if i leave it - the lens would not cover full 645 frame and the real problem to fix the last element in its position and need to cut mirror more and just for the information - i have another 85mm 1.2L without two rear elements - in that case it would cover 6x9
I have tried this combo (mamiya 645 +85L ) with original hood - thought it would be worse
bellyface, i do not have any other lens for that mamiya 645 afd, i just wanted to find out how will look really fast lens on such big sensor/film area.
Jim, few things to consider - not that easy to catch the right focus in the viewfinder (although i have screen for manual lenses Type C - it is really helpfull for center area focus point) and scanning procedure.
Just stumbled upon this thread, very beautiful (and strange!) shots here. I was wondering if the Sigma 50/1.4 could do something similar... from my (very) informal tests, the image circle is larger than my 85/1.8. Of course, I don't have anything to test it on, but a f1.4 WA on medium format sounds intriguing. I guess Canon never had their 50/1.0L in FD mount?
Personally I don't get it since the removal of the rear element has totally ruined the image quality. Cool idea, but I'm not impressed by anything other than the effort. Kudos for trying it out!
Makten, thanks for your opinion, but few things to consider - it is impossible to leave the rear element with Mamiya body (but even if you manage to fit the rear element, the lens itself will not cover 645 format), many others fast lenses do not have that floating element and still produce great images wideopen, it could be that there is some focusing error - it would be great if i had digital back and could adjust focusing screen and the lens, see sample with flowers it is also wideopen and focusing is quite in spot. When you stop down the lens it performs quite normal
For my personal taste - I really love the images with that combination. Unique signature. The softness seems to work well with portrait subjects and the OOF area is just in a category by itself. IQ is one characteristic, uniqueness is another - creating a composition can be a combination of many different aspects.
I understand removing the last element to increase the light path for the larger sensor but would that lens work on the Mamiya with a Mirex or similar adapter to keep from getting into the mirror path?
