I ordered and received the Milich LTM Adapter for the G1. It works perfectly. I have tried the CV 50/1.5 Nokton and the CV 28/1.9 Ultron so far, just waiting to get the time to try out my CV 35/2.5, CV 15/4.5 and CV 90/3.5.
I paid $150 shipped for the adapter and received in the mail three days later.
I also have the Panasonic 45-200 lens.
I have a journal going for my G1, if you're intered, just visit here (I'll be adding as time permits):
Thanks! I just had some hands on with the G1 and am much more impressed than I expected to be.
The manual focus is the best idea I've ever seen a company implement - it is fantastic.
If the adapter is used - how is the manual focus? Is it the same as with a auto-focus lens used in manual or are there extra steps required? I'm hoping it is as simple as putting the camera in either manual or aperture priority and the body into MF. Then I hope one can push a button to get the magnified view, set the aperture (and shutter in MF) and I hope the magnified view goes away with the same half press ... and click ... take the shot.
Does it work as that - that is about the only bit of information that is staying my hand from buying one of these new micro 4/3rds gems. I hope a few primes or fixed aperture lenses come soon.
VickiB wrote:
If the adapter is used - how is the manual focus? Is it the same as with a auto-focus lens used in manual or are there extra steps required? I'm hoping it is as simple as putting the camera in either manual or aperture priority and the body into MF. Then I hope one can push a button to get the magnified view, set the aperture (and shutter in MF) and I hope the magnified view goes away with the same half press ... and click ... take the shot.
Thanks once more for the info!
It is ridiculously easy to manually focus. And I'm a guy with middle-aged eyes.
The process goes like this:
First, there is a setting in the camera you need to change. I missed this step, and thought the adapter was bad. Set the SHOOT W/O LENS to ON. Do it once, and it stays that way, even after turning off the camera.
Set focus knob dial to MF.
I set the exposure mode to Program.
Push the AF mode button on the command dial on the back of camera.
Turn the MF ring and a zoomed in box appears. You can magnify it to two different levels. You can move the zoomed focus box wherever you like. Wonderful!
You can focus with the aperture set wide open, but you don't even have to do that. As you stop down, the VF or LCD increases video gain to keep the image bright. So just select the desired aperture. Keep in mind you are getting a live, true DOF preview while doing this, again without dimming the VF or LCD.
Check the live histogram (yessss) and adjust exposure as desired. I find it exposes quite accurately all by itself -- much more accurately than my Canon dSLRs meter adapted lenses.
Press the shutter release.
It doesn't get any easier. In short, all the hopes you listed are fulfilled.
Canonizer .... does that procedure work with MF lenses? Why put it into P mode (which I've never used in my life yet ) What if you put it into manual exposure mode - does it still work that way and can the focus point be moved around still?
Thanks. I'm seriously tempted by this camera, I only wonder if waiting a bit for an Olympus release of another version may not be wise.
Pavel wrote:
Canonizer .... does that procedure work with MF lenses? Why put it into P mode (which I've never used in my life yet ) What if you put it into manual exposure mode - does it still work that way and can the focus point be moved around still?
Thanks. I'm seriously tempted by this camera, I only wonder if waiting a bit for an Olympus release of another version may not be wise.
Yes, the procedure I listed is for MF lenses.
I use P mode because it works the way I like it, using the adapted MF lenses. I set the aperture, the camera selects the shutter speed.
I haven't tried M mode yet, but I'll go do that and report back. I'm sure the focus point can still be moved around, you'll just have to manually set the shutter speed, based on the histogram and/or the meter reading. But I will verify that for you.
Don't know about what Oly will do, but the G1 has impressed me. Haven't had this much photography fun in a while.
Pavel wrote:
Canonizer .... does that procedure work with MF lenses? Why put it into P mode (which I've never used in my life yet ) What if you put it into manual exposure mode - does it still work that way and can the focus point be moved around still?
Thanks. I'm seriously tempted by this camera, I only wonder if waiting a bit for an Olympus release of another version may not be wise.
OK, just mounted my CV Lanthar 90/3.5 for the first time. So on the G1 it's a 180/3.5. Nice.
I tried out every exposure mode except shutter priority, for obvious reasons. The zoomed focus point works the same in all modes. You can move it, you can zoom it. A and P mode work the same way -- set the aperture and the shutter speed is set by the camera. It will let you override that. M mode, set it all. The G1 is just eager to please.
For manual lenses, for focus assist, press the left arrow on the back of the camera, followed by the ok (center button.) The dial on the front of the grip will vary the magnification.
Canonizer, I'm looking for 45-200 shots and you mentioned you owned the lens--but I only saw the CV lenses used (BTW--interesting site and I'll keep watching it as you 'grow' it). I have a G1 coming--maybe next week. I didn't buy any other lens--will have only the kit lens and since I'm a Canon shooter with lots of lenses but no alternative lenses, I'll have to consider carefully what I want to do for faster lenses (also longer--I'm not sure I want/need the 45-200)--I don't want to buy multiple adaptors.
Duh---2 of the birdhouse shots were with the 45-200. I'm trying to decide if I want to buy it or skip it.
canonizer, I've played with the G1 twice now and am so impressed that I can hardly believe how so nicely the details are thought out and how good the whole experience with the G1 is.
I have not had the chance to try any MF lenses of course so I'm grateful for you post - thanks!
My only reservation is the lack of lense for the system. I was an entrant into the 4/3 system with the Olympus E-1 when there were only two lenses for it and I was very optimistic. But slowly I found that Olympus and I did not share a similar vision as they didn't release any kind of wow primes and so I got out (feeling a bit burned)
Man, now I have a case of mild cold feet. I want this cam but to be able to get my hands on something like the rumored 7-14 f 4.0 ( but how much will they charge -some of the oly prices are nuts) and a 20 f 1.7 (perfect) along with one or two like at 35 f 2.0 and 50 f 2.0 (or faster).
If I only had that kind of blind confidence this time around, for round two of 4/3rds .... I'd order today.
The MF lenses though make it almost a done deal, the way you describe that it isn't any kind of pain.
Can you post some shots?
I just may have to cross my fingers for the system and order anyways.
It's the largest VF in a 4/3rds camera (By a small margin over the E-3 and a massive one over the low-end bodies). Visibly an EVF (A hint of visible dragging when panning quickly, colour is clearly VEF) but far better than anything that's been seen in a consumer camera, the EVF display comes from Panny's pro video gear.
The big thing is the auto focusing zoom. When the lens is in manual focus the VF automatically zooms in when you start focusing, it's brilliant (the same behaviour can be manually triggered with MF lenses on adaptors).
Ok, this thread is pulling me in as I wonder if this will give me a reasonably priced chance at using my 28, 50, and 90 M lenses. It would be interesting to hear from someone in a similiar situation.
I have saved the 3 above lenses after selling the low resolution Epson R-D1, hoping to be able to feel comfortable with a digital Leica in the future. Lets assume the price is around $3,000 for that used 1.3X sensor, currently.
I would rather have a 75mm, than the 90mm, so I could sell the 90 for almost $1000, and the used M8 would cost me $2000. Then, make do with the 28 and 50 for a while, giving effective 37mm and 69mm focal lengths on the M8 sensor.
It looks like the G1 costs $700-$800, with a kit lens. Can it be purchased as body only? The Milch M adapter for M lenses will be $250. That's $1050, so far for effective 56mm and 102mm focal lengths. Nothing wider than 56mm, so I would have to consider say the Heliar 15mm at over $400, with a LTM to M adapter, for a 30mm effective focal length. Now, we're up to $1500.
Complicating the story is the promise of a future fast 20mm/1.7 that could eliminate the Heliar, and 28 Elmarit, for an acceptible 40mm focal length, but then I have a whole new camera system.
Maybe the answer is to figure out how to get the body only, or just wait for future u4/3 offerings?
picnic wrote:
Canonizer, I'm looking for 45-200 shots and you mentioned you owned the lens--but I only saw the CV lenses used (BTW--interesting site and I'll keep watching it as you 'grow' it). I have a G1 coming--maybe next week. I didn't buy any other lens--will have only the kit lens and since I'm a Canon shooter with lots of lenses but no alternative lenses, I'll have to consider carefully what I want to do for faster lenses (also longer--I'm not sure I want/need the 45-200)--I don't want to buy multiple adaptors.
Duh---2 of the birdhouse shots were with the 45-200. I'm trying to decide if I want to buy it or skip it.
Yes, and the two birdhouse shots were only me trying to get a feel for the bokeh I can expect in the u4/3 world. Not very helpful for anything else.
I would love to provide more examples, but it is rainy and dreary for some time here. As soon as I get the opportunity to post some meaninful images from the 45-200, I sure will.
The 45-200 does provide a faster 45mm (90mm equivalent), as it is f/4 vs the f/5.6 you get on the 14-55. It also provides a 200mm (400mm equivalent) at f/5.6. To tote around a 400/5.6 lens (with IS remember) of such size and weight is rather amazing.
) What if you put it into manual exposure mode - does it still work that way and can the focus point be moved around still? 