I have a Rebel XT and a 580EX and neither has the sync output I need for this old
light set that looks like this photo I found online:
It came with a long 4-pin to 1-pin male-to-male cable. The single pin looks like a
2.5mm headphone jack, not the same as the modern PC sync port I believe.
On B&H they have a few 'universal' hotshoe sync adapters but I had two concerns -
they always say 'female pc sync ports' which I'm not sure will work with the cable
I have and two I certainly don't want to fry my camera.
Older flash units typical have trigger voltages which exceed the 250V limit of newer Canon digital bodies. Check the the trigger voltage of the unit by using the probes of a digital multimeter to fire the unit by shorting the contacts. You can also use the continuity tester of the same meter to trace which two of the four contacts in the plug are active.
The safest approach with your camera, which lacks a PC socket in any case, is to use a wireless trigger system. But they can also get fried. Another approach is an isolator. Google "Wein Safe-Sync"
If the power pack hasn't been used for some time there may also be issues with the capacitors so proceed with care.
I own a couple of these and have used them with my modern cameras via a wireless trigger. If you're the only photog in your location, a simple optical trigger will do the trick. If you go cord, the Lumedyne Flash Sync Filter would do what you want. Another option is a Paramount voltage-protected cord.
I have one of the older flashmaster rigs too, and made some adapters, for both the standard household type plug, and the 1/4" round phone jack that is used on some studio cameras.
The hard part is finding the male 4 blade plugs.
The later model Flashmasters used the 1/4" jacks instead of the 4 blade type.
Probably the best solution would be to convert your powerpack to a chassis mounted
1/4" recepticle.
It's a fairly simple job, but I would not recomend doing it yourself.
Those old capacitors store a very hefty charge, and can be very dangerous.
You also want to be sure to NEVER plug in, or unplug a head unless the power is off.
The modeling light bulbs are #1073 truck tail light bulbs that can be found at most auto parts stores.
As I'm sure you have noticed, the old beast is heavy to carry around, but they just keep on flashing. I've used mine for many years, and have no plans to replace it
Thanks Chuck, the link you posted is almost identicle to one of the ones I made up.
The only difference is the length of the cord itself, mine is about 6" long over all.
I already had a 15' heavy duty sync cord with a 1/4" phone plug on one end, and a 2 pin microphone plug on the other.
The second one I made is similar, but uses a standard 1/4" mono phone jack instead
of the household type.
I would not use either of them with a digital camera. A Wein Safe Sync, or something similar, between the digital camera, and the power pack would be very necessary.
Mine are used with a Camerz ZII 70mm studio camera that is built to handle the high trigger voltage.
Yes, the Paramount sync cord would work just fine with the adapter.
The one shown in your link is only 18" long.
I have a 15' household to PC cord that I occassionally use with the adapter I made and a RB67 camera.
Again, the camera is built to hande the high trigger voltage.
I would not use it with a digital camera without a Safe Sync.
Henry, that little thing looks like the ticket - thank you!
I'm guessing that'll plug right into the 4-pin H trigger port on the AA01-A I've got and
fire the flashes based on my 580EX?
Plus it takes the whole voltage thing out of the picture since nothing will plug into
my camera and it won't have me tied to a cord. Sweet.
I don't imagine you sell it or an equiv. product at B&H do you? I found it online for
sale at calumet, but I'd rather support B&H for your help - and I got all my gear from
B&H originally anyway.
I actually own an earlier version of the Photogenic slave. Mine is the Photogenic 8050P and says nothing about "solid state circuitry." Works like a charm. Our site says the gadget is discontinued, so buy one where you can find one. I appreciate the gesture, though.
The only way to use this pack is using an optical or radio trigger. I had the distinct pleasure of having the ^%$# shocked out of me while holding my camera in one hand and moving the light.
That was in the old days when it was hooked to a Yashica TLR with a sync cord. This pack is probably 30 years old and capacitors are probably decayed, and thus probably not safe.
If you can get this real cheap, it is might be worth playing with, otherwise just by some alienbees. Attach a rope to it and use it as boat anchor!! :-)
It's certainly heavy enough to use as an anchor, but I would not want to be holding it when it hit the water. Those big old capacitors would go off like bombs.
Mine is well over 30 yrs old, and still does it's job very well.
The new wore off a very long time ago, and it has paid for itself,
many times over.
