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davewolfs
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p.1 #1 · Markins Friction Control vs. RRS


Could any of you comment on the Markins style friction control vs the RRS style. Specifically the Markins Q3. I keep reading that it is great, but do any of you find the friction knob a tad small and difficult to dial in or is it easier then it looks

So far I've found the BH-40 to be not the smoothest but fairly easy to use, but I would like to hear how the Markins compares.

Thanks,

Dave

Aug 06, 2008 at 02:41 AM
picfox
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p.1 #2 · Markins Friction Control vs. RRS


I don't have a RRS BH, but have the Markins M20. In general to adjust the friction on the Markins is very easy and accurate, just a piece of cake.

Aug 06, 2008 at 03:57 AM
jhom
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p.1 #3 · Markins Friction Control vs. RRS


The friction control dial on the Markins is simple to use and adjust. All you need to do is press your finger pad into the rigged dial and twist. You only need a small bit of finger pressure. Alternatively, you can use your finger nail to turn the dial. It is simple, smooth, and convenient to use.

Jim

Aug 06, 2008 at 04:10 AM
dcains
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p.1 #4 · Markins Friction Control vs. RRS


I've got both a BH-40 and Q3 (having just re-purchased a Q3 for my lightweight setup) and I prefer the BH-40, with a few caveats. First, I think the BH-40 really needs some break-in time, and mine has gotten progressively better with more and more use. Second, I apply a little automotive wax (Meguair's TechWax) to the ball occasionally (as in every several months), and the ball action and friction control are very smooth and predictable. In the owner's manual, RRS mentions that WD-40 could also be used, but that it's a non-reversible thing, and caution is advised. As far as I've seen in ~2 years of use, the wax has no downside. Also on the positive side for the BH-40, I prefer having a separate knob for the drag control, and especially appreciate the numbered scale. The numbers are only relative, but I've come to know what settings to always use with my 5D and 12-24 versus my 40D and 300 f/4.

About the Q3, the drag control also works well, but it's tougher to repeat the same setting for different camera/lens combinations, and of course, there's that lame panning base lock (which simply doesn't). I sold my first Q3 after a very short while because of this, but still think it's among the best when size and weight (and perhaps cost, too) are important.

Aug 06, 2008 at 05:26 AM
davewolfs
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p.1 #5 · Markins Friction Control vs. RRS


Thank you for the detailed response. I for one find that when using the BH-40 I don't go by fixed numbers (perhaps I should). I simply feel for the right amount of tension when adjusting. For this type of style would you say that it is as easy to get the right tension (perfect spot) for motion when using the Q3?

What type of legs are you using with your Q3?

dcains wrote:
I've got both a BH-40 and Q3 (having just re-purchased a Q3 for my lightweight setup) and I prefer the BH-40, with a few caveats. First, I think the BH-40 really needs some break-in time, and mine has gotten progressively better with more and more use. Second, I apply a little automotive wax (Meguair's TechWax) to the ball occasionally (as in every several months), and the ball action and friction control are very smooth and predictable. In the owner's manual, RRS mentions that WD-40 could also be used, but that it's a non-reversible thing, and caution is advised. As far as I've seen in ~2 years of use, the wax has no downside. Also on the positive side for the BH-40, I prefer having a separate knob for the drag control, and especially appreciate the numbered scale. The numbers are only relative, but I've come to know what settings to always use with my 5D and 12-24 versus my 40D and 300 f/4.

About the Q3, the drag control also works well, but it's tougher to repeat the same setting for different camera/lens combinations, and of course, there's that lame panning base lock (which simply doesn't). I sold my first Q3 after a very short while because of this, but still think it's among the best when size and weight (and perhaps cost, too) are important.



Aug 06, 2008 at 12:48 PM
Lars Johnsson
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p.1 #6 · Markins Friction Control vs. RRS


I have both RRS and Markins heads. The friction controll is easy to use on both brands. Maybe the RRS has a small edge over the Markin. But in real life use it's not a big deal, both are good. And the Markins ball is a lot smother......

Edited on Aug 06, 2008 at 01:54 PM


Aug 06, 2008 at 01:51 PM
jhom
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p.1 #7 · Markins Friction Control vs. RRS


Until recently, I had a Q3 mounted on a set of Gitzo 2530 legs. When I needed to set the friction control, all I had to do is turn the main knob to where the friction dial was in the 9 o'clock position (a good starting point for my gear with lenses smaller than a 70-200; 10 o'clock position for my 70-200 and 300). I then tightened the fiction control dial if necessary and tested the setup. If I needed more tension, I would just turn the main dial clockwise as necessary and then tighten the friction control dial. To loosen the friction control, I would just turn the main knob counter clockwise until it stopped, loosen the friction control and then set a new start point. Quick and simple.

Setting the friction control is a matter of preference. After a little bit of experience, you can easily know where to start and stop your settings.

Jim

Edited on Aug 06, 2008 at 02:34 PM


Aug 06, 2008 at 02:31 PM
dcains
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p.1 #8 · Markins Friction Control vs. RRS


davewolfs wrote:
Thank you for the detailed response. I for one find that when using the BH-40 I don't go by fixed numbers (perhaps I should). I simply feel for the right amount of tension when adjusting. For this type of style would you say that it is as easy to get the right tension (perfect spot) for motion when using the Q3?

What type of legs are you using with your Q3?

but I've come to know what settings to always use with my 5D and 12-24 versus my 40D and 300 f/4.


My Q3 is mounted on a set of Gitzo G1097 legs, and the BH-40 is on a set of G1228LVL legs.

Aug 06, 2008 at 05:09 PM
Phocus
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p.1 #9 · Markins Friction Control vs. RRS


dcains wrote:
About the Q3, the drag control also works well, but it's tougher to repeat the same setting for different camera/lens combinations, and of course, there's that lame panning base lock (which simply doesn't). I sold my first Q3 after a very short while because of this, but still think it's among the best when size and weight (and perhaps cost, too) are important.


I thought the panning locks were much improved by Markins recently, are people still having issues


Aug 07, 2008 at 08:50 PM
dcains
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p.1 #10 · Markins Friction Control vs. RRS


Phocus wrote:
I thought the panning locks were much improved by Markins recently, are people still having issues


Now that I've got two tripods, and only use the Q3 with shorter/lighter lenses, the weak panning lock is less of an issue, but it seems about the same as the first one I had ~1 year ago.

Aug 08, 2008 at 12:25 AM
Sean Mills
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p.1 #11 · Markins Friction Control vs. RRS


FWIW I just moved from an Arca Z1DP to an RRS BH55 with PCL...

Everything, and I mean everything, is smoother, more fluid, and more natural with the RRS (and I was perfectly content with the Arca BTW, just got a wild hair up to send some money back home to SLO ). I've never used a Markins, but there's my 2 cents. RRS just crafts the finest head you could want.

Aug 08, 2008 at 04:21 AM
Lars Johnsson
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p.1 #12 · Markins Friction Control vs. RRS


I have the RRS BH-55, Arca-Swiss Z1 and Markins Q3. I think RRS probably has the best panning lock. Everything else with the ball is much smoother and fluid on the Markins, and Arca-Swiss is number two

Edited on Aug 08, 2008 at 04:43 AM


Aug 08, 2008 at 04:42 AM
kenyee
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p.1 #13 · Markins Friction Control vs. RRS


The Kirk BH-1 is also a well engineered head w/ a good pan lock...the tolerances are a lot tighter than most other ballheads.
Sean: interested in trading your old Arca?

Aug 08, 2008 at 02:44 PM
Sean Mills
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p.1 #14 · Markins Friction Control vs. RRS


Ah, it's already sold man.

Aug 09, 2008 at 11:31 AM
molson
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p.1 #15 · Markins Friction Control vs. RRS


Sean Mills wrote:
FWIW I just moved from an Arca Z1DP to an RRS BH55 with PCL...

Everything, and I mean everything, is smoother, more fluid, and more natural with the RRS (and I was perfectly content with the Arca BTW, just got a wild hair up to send some money back home to SLO ). I've never used a Markins, but there's my 2 cents. RRS just crafts the finest head you could want.


Just to show you how subjective these opinions are, I just sold my RRS BH-55 and replaced it with an Arca Swiss Z1DP (almost traded with Sean, but I wanted a different style of clamp than his Z1 had), and couldn't be happier. The Arca is much more smooth and precise than the BH-55, and has a significantly higher load capacity. The BH-55 also has a very annoying habit of sagging after you lock the ball, so you have to keep re-adjusting your framing.

I still have a BH-40, which is a nice head for backpacking and travel, but since it isn't that much lighter than the Z1DP, I may sell it as well, and swap the Z1DP between tripods.

Edited on Aug 10, 2008 at 03:32 PM


Aug 10, 2008 at 03:31 PM
theMAGE
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p.1 #16 · Markins Friction Control vs. RRS


molson wrote:
Just to show you how subjective these opinions are, I just sold my RRS BH-55 and replaced it with an Arca Swiss Z1DP (almost traded with Sean, but I wanted a different style of clamp than his Z1 had), and couldn't be happier. The Arca is much more smooth and precise than the BH-55, and has a significantly higher load capacity. The BH-55 also has a very annoying habit of sagging after you lock the ball, so you have to keep re-adjusting your framing.

I still have a BH-40, which is a nice head for backpacking and travel, but since it isn't that much lighter than the Z1DP, I may sell it as well, and swap the Z1DP between tripods.


The annoying sagging it why I sent the BH-40 back and got an Arca-Swiss. I first thought it is just my technique... Arca-Swiss might not be as smooth as Markins or have knob markers as linear and precise as RRS, but once you look through the lens and turn the knob, the whole thing freezes in position. No if, buts or sags. And this is how I like it.


Aug 11, 2008 at 04:14 PM
dcains
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p.1 #17 · Markins Friction Control vs. RRS


I often use my BH40 with a 40D/300f/4L IS setup, and I don't get any sag or movement after the ball is locked. Perhaps this has something to do with the initial drag setting?

Aug 11, 2008 at 06:56 PM

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