Having just had 11 days off and hoping for some decent shooting to bring my stock up on winter material a bit, this period has been a big disappointment. It DID give me time to build a new website and upload it, but the first day for anything close to decent shooting was today. That wasn't snow, but freezing fog instead . Go figure!
Anyway, just wanted to wish everyone a very happy new year and here's hoping that '06 is a good one for you. Enjoy!
Glenn, nice series. Uh, what's all that white stuff? IMO, the first image needs to be printed..... I know a guy that can do that sort of thing.....
as an aside, I know we like to shoot trees with new leaves or fall colo(u)rs, etc, but I think they look really cool with no leaves, especially in a scene like this. I think you would be very surprised at how good #1 would look on fine art paper. (just a thought).
Many thanks folks . Jack, I need to yak with you about something relating to these - will be in touch tonight when I get home from work (ugghhh ).
Duane, there was no problem at all with the camera. It really wasn't that cold, only a few degrees below freezing. We had snow, freezing fog and snow grains as well as a touch of freezing rain when I was out and the camera worked flawlessly (and yes, it did get wet and a bit icy in places). I have used the D2H in temperatures of -25C to -30C for extended periods with no trouble at all (I didn't put the camera under my coat in between shots - that too can give you condensation) and after 4 or 5 hours of being out in those temps there were no problems and I still had over 1/2 battery life (easily) showing. These cameras seem to not be all that affected by weather to be honest.
I really appreciate low contrast work , so I enjoyed these Glenn. I like the needles the best tho , just for the near abstract quality of it
FWIW , low contrast stuff looks best IMO on a low contrast paper like a velvet , matte or canvas. How I process images is greatly dependent on the understanding of the paper, how much saturation it can hold and how much contrast it can hold without freaking out is a skill as great as taking the picture in the first place
jmcfadden wrote:
FWIW , low contrast stuff looks best IMO on a low contrast paper like a velvet , matte or canvas. How I process images is greatly dependent on the understanding of the paper, how much saturation it can hold and how much contrast it can hold without freaking out is a skill as great as taking the picture in the first place
J
John, that's about 12 mouthfuls... it is truly amazing at the difference in papers and how the end result drives our processing. This is at least as complicated as processing for silver papers, if not more so, in the wet darkroom.
NAVPHONE wrote:
Oh no, you used a tripod, Jack is using a meter, the next thing you know people are going to start using a cable release. What's next a polarizer?
Andrew, if I use a tripod, and a cable release, and a polarizer, do I have to lock up the mirror (assuming I used my light meter)?
I agree totally John, printing is a whole other aspect to photography that requires every bit the skill of the photographer taking the original image! I'm completely clueless in that area, although hopefully some day... . Thanks John .
Andrew, yup, tripod, remote release and mirror lockup on all but a couple of images in the whole day. All the above were used on all these shots as the shutter speeds were slow (less than 1/30th in all cases except for the fence). Regardless, it's a terrible feeling to come back from the field thinking I've had a really great day of shooting, only to find camera shake making the images unuseable. For that reason, I can count the number of times on one hand I've shot hand-held in the past year, and probably the same number of times I've not used a remote release (cable release). When using the 80-400, I always use MLU as well. Hey, no point in having $2000 lenses if you are going to sabatoge the shot by risking handhelds when doing landscape and nature .
Thanks David . Really appreciate that very much!
Have a great one guys!
Glenn
PS - oh yeah, I just used the in-camera matrix meter, overexposed by 1/2 stop to keep the whites white, and double checked that the snow wasn't blown by spot metering the snow. Works every time
. Go figure!
IMO, the first image needs to be printed..... I know a guy that can do that sort of thing..... 