lostinjapan wrote:
Here is another one from last week, similar to others I have posted. It was taken with the 17mm TSE with full shift.
Ryan
Very nice!
How is the A7R with the TS-E lenses? How does it compare with using a Canon body? Any thoughts you or anyone else has to share about the TS-E lenses and this camera would be greatly appreciated.
Last year I got a D800 and contemplated switching systems altogether, but I just could not give up my TS-E 17 and 24 II and ended up switching back to a 5D III. Now, the Sony A7R seems like the answer I have been waiting for.
Some rambling thoughts, so bare with me. Honestly, it doesn't feel that much different, used enough cameras over the last 30 years, where they all are basically similar in many ways. The more I customize the camera, the more I am beginning to like it more actually and I have it set up like the 5d. With the TSEs because the body is alot smaller than the 5Ds, you do need to be carefully especially when shifting down and where you position the camera on the tripod. If your not careful, the lens will hit the tripod head quickly. Another thing, that I was quick to discover, when rotating the lens be careful not the hit the lens release on the Metabones adapter. I had thought I was rotating the lens instead I unmounted the lens and adapter from the camera, nearly dropped it in the river(near where the picture was taken). With my gripped 5d3 on the tripod I would sometimes not use a remote to trigger the camera. I will always use a remote or wireless app when using the TSEs on the A7r; it does not dampen vibrations quite as fast as the Canons. Other than that the LV works very well, the images have much better DR and very clean shadows compared to the Canons. All in all a winner, for me, these are not so much grips as just things I have found I need to be cautious of when using the camera.
lostinjapan wrote:
If you don't mind me asking, the CV21 pictures look very nice. How are the corners? Particularly any smearing?
Thanks!
Ryan
The CV21 is decent overall Ryan, it resolves detail to the edges by f/8, f/11 where it seem to lose sharpness gradually at the extremes. I took some test shots with 100% crops which I previously linked in the Rangerfinder WA thread:
I wouldn't say it's absolutely definitive, someone else may get better or worse results from their own testing using a different adaptor or more meticulous technique. I used the Hawk's Factory LM to E adaptor. From real world shooting I haven't noticed any noticeable smearing and it looks quite good once it's pp'd. Hope that gives you an idea. There seems to be quite an interest in this lens!
The postman managed to deliver the camera half an hour before dark
For people interested in wide alternatives i managed to take some shots before dark and twilight. Ran out the door with 2 lenses. Hope you excuse me for lack of creativity.
The minolta MD does better, as far I can see now. The FD vignettes a lot (25 correction in ACR and the MD 3)
So the files are corrected to see what I can make of it, no colour corner corrections though.
sculptormic wrote:
The postman managed to deliver the camera half an hour before dark
For people interested in wide alternatives i managed to take some shots before dark and twilight. Ran out the door with 2 lenses. Hope you excuse me for lack of creativity.
The minolta MD does better, as far I can see now. The FD vignettes a lot (25 correction in ACR and the MD 3)
So the files are corrected to see what I can make of it, no colour corner corrections though.
Very useful, practical comments, Ryan. I use my TSE 24 II on a Canon 6D and don't see the need to move to the Sony for this, not least because I already have wireless LV on my Galaxy via the 6D, which makes it a lot easier to check manual focusing at low tripod height. But it's still worth knowing these important, but not obvious, factors when using small camera bodies.
Martin
lostinjapan wrote:
Some rambling thoughts, so bare with me. Honestly, it doesn't feel that much different, used enough cameras over the last 30 years, where they all are basically similar in many ways. The more I customize the camera, the more I am beginning to like it more actually and I have it set up like the 5d. With the TSEs because the body is alot smaller than the 5Ds, you do need to be carefully especially when shifting down and where you position the camera on the tripod. If your not careful, the lens will hit the tripod head quickly. Another thing, that I was quick to discover, when rotating the lens be careful not the hit the lens release on the Metabones adapter. I had thought I was rotating the lens instead I unmounted the lens and adapter from the camera, nearly dropped it in the river(near where the picture was taken). With my gripped 5d3 on the tripod I would sometimes not use a remote to trigger the camera. I will always use a remote or wireless app when using the TSEs on the A7r; it does not dampen vibrations quite as fast as the Canons. Other than that the LV works very well, the images have much better DR and very clean shadows compared to the Canons. All in all a winner, for me, these are not so much grips as just things I have found I need to be cautious of when using the camera.
This lens handles very nicely on the camera. Actually much better than it does on native Nikon F cameras, because of it sitting a bit further away from the mount. It's light enough not to bow the lens downwards when carrying the camera around your neck, while at the same time giving good access to both the focusing ring and aperture ring.
Performance-wise it kills the Summicron-C 40/2 wide open, at low light. Contrast is better, flare handling is better, corner performance is better. What you lose is those subtle color nuances and the crisp per-pixel sharpness. Something that is seldom beneficial at low light anyway. The C wants good light and a bit of stopping down to show its strengths.
Kenzo, these BWs are terrific...great to see the venerable 28/2.8 showing its wares esp centre of image, and the magic FD lenses, preferable to the EOS range IMHO.
Michiel it does not need to be much wider than 18mm - are you happy with how this Distagon works? From NEX7 you will have just under an extra two stops of SNR - so 400 becomes 1600, but it is even better in that the noise character of the FF sensor is special, so you can push ISO more again with care. ISO 3200 is now quite routine unless absolute top quality is needed.
I love the look from this camera and I don't even have it yet...If Sony don't have a winner in this one they can give the game away. If we leave Sean's fine 35 FE images out, the bottom of this page is dominated by 20-30 year old lenses...film never looked like this, I hope those lens designers are still around to see the effects of huge sensor DR and resolution.
philip_pj wrote:
Michiel it does not need to be much wider than 18mm - are you happy with how this Distagon works? From NEX7 you will have just under an extra two stops of SNR - so 400 becomes 1600, but it is even better in that the noise character of the FF sensor is special, so you can push ISO more again with care. ISO 3200 is now quite routine unless absolute top quality is needed.
I love the look from this camera and I don't even have it yet...If Sony don't have a winner in this one they can give the game away. If we leave Sean's fine 35 FE images out, the bottom of this page is dominated by 20-30 year old lenses...film never looked like this, I hope those lens designers are still around to see the effects of huge sensor DR and resolution. ...Show more →
(I changed one of my posts because I uploaded 3 x the same picture To busy making a Window dressing photo book.)
It is a terrific camera! Could not spend much time with it yet.
But as said by a few in the other forum; Adobe doesn't have it right yet, and I think it's true. I uploaded Sony IDC and will have a look at it tomorrow if it works better and if I can see the differences.
I am quiet surpriced with the 20mm MD! Contax lenses also do rather well. I need full daylight for better testing but again no time. It gets dark @ half past 4 these days.
High ISO is much better in deed. I planned to go out tonight with the FD 85/1.2 to see how it would do but work kept me from it. I bought the 35 FE as well but to start with I am more curious about some old lenses. I know that lens will deliver and it focusses fast and rather well under dark circumstances. (I checked that)
Viewfinder is better for focussing and the interface is plain and simple.
Taylor Sherman wrote:
Wow, crazy jaggies on those bridge wires! I think this is a LR5 issue currently?
It could possibly be, I resized in Photoshop and ran a couple of smart sharpens through it, it probably could do with no extra sharpening at all. I found my previous sharpening actions made it look disturbingly oversharpened. Another subtler workflow will be probably best.
To busy making a Window dressing photo book.)
