I am new to panoramas and have been researching different options for getting the proper setup.
It seems very important that the camera/lens is to be set at the nodal or no parallax point to aid in the stitching process. I understand this.
Before I lay out a couple hundred or more on a panoramic head with all the bells and whistles I was wondering if a macro rail (cheaper) could be used instead of all the other fancy gear?
And if so could it be used in vertical orientation with an L bracket?
I understand I may need to get the fancy setup with nodal rail etc., but I was just wondering if there were any other alternatives that work just as well.
For a more complete answer - It maybe helpful to define the parameters of your panoramas - 3 frame stitch - 360's - multiple row - focal length(s) - landscape? - Etc.
Which pano products are you referencing - pano head?
Today's software is really good - it's surprising what can be stitched even hand held or just by tweaking the camera body using a standard tripod & ballhead. Some scenes do require controlling parallax via using pano rail or shift lenses.
mMontag wrote:
For a more complete answer - It maybe helpful to define the parameters of your panoramas - 3 frame stitch - 360's - multiple row - focal length(s) - landscape? - Etc.
Which pano products are you referencing - pano head?
Today's software is really good - it's surprising what can be stitched even hand held or just by tweaking the camera body using a standard tripod & ballhead. Some scenes do require controlling parallax via using pano rail or shift lenses.
Right now I'm interested in doing Landscape panos stitching 1 row with maybe 3-5 shots. Plan on orienting camera in vertical or portrait position. The pano products I'm talking about are the nodal ninja and acratech pano heads, or similar products. I'm not familiar with any of the pano products or the macro products so I can't really get any more detailed than this.
All I need is a product that allows me to orient the camera vertical on my tripod, AND allows me to set the lens at the no parallax point. And also level the setup properly.
I'm not, at this time, interested in a tilt shift lens. I know what they can do. That may be in my future.
I have played around with hand held panos and yes they can look very good, but I also wanted a tripod setup that allows me maybe more consistency or reproducibility.
I use the RRS panning clamp on top of the ballhead, pretty much by itself these days. I have the rail as well for setting the nodal point, but rarely use it as the software is pretty amazing these days at stitching.
mMontag wrote:
For a more complete answer - It maybe helpful to define the parameters of your panoramas - 3 frame stitch - 360's - multiple row - focal length(s) - landscape? - Etc.
Which pano products are you referencing - pano head?
Today's software is really good - it's surprising what can be stitched even hand held or just by tweaking the camera body using a standard tripod & ballhead. Some scenes do require controlling parallax via using pano rail or shift lenses.
scm2000 wrote:
Right now I'm interested in doing Landscape panos stitching 1 row with maybe 3-5 shots. Plan on orienting camera in vertical or portrait position. The pano products I'm talking about are the nodal ninja and acratech pano heads, or similar products. I'm not familiar with any of the pano products or the macro products so I can't really get any more detailed than this.
All I need is a product that allows me to orient the camera vertical on my tripod, AND allows me to set the lens at the no parallax point. And also level the setup properly.
I'm not, at this time, interested in a tilt shift lens. I know what they can do. That may be in my future.
I have played around with hand held panos and yes they can look very good, but I also wanted a tripod setup that allows me maybe more consistency or reproducibility. ...Show more →
If there's no foreground elements within say, oh 10m or 15m then node centering isn't very important. Not important enough to go out buying devices at any rate (IMO). The very best value that I've come across for "more consistency or reproducibility" is the Beike gimbal head. Node centering is pretty easy and it makes the actual pano-shooting dead easy. There's a thread about it here:
I also use macro rails with it but not really for centering which is easy with or without them. I used the macro rails for macro focusing and framing mostly. Anyway I can't hype the use of a gimbal enough for pano projects! It really makes things well, consistent and reproducible. There's some shots of it setup like that here: https://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1105558/6#10603740
scm2000 wrote:
Right now I'm interested in doing Landscape panos stitching 1 row with maybe 3-5 shots.
For single-row panos you only need a rail, like the pano rail, or possibly a macro rail. Note that although I love RRS products in general, I strongly advise against buying their macro rail. I bought one, and there is slop in the gearing, so focusing back and forth is an exercise in frustration, and there is slop in the slider, so when you move forwards, it veers left, and backwards veers right (or vice versa, I don't recall off-hand).
scm2000 wrote:
It seems very important that the camera/lens is to be set at the nodal or no parallax point to aid in the stitching process.
The no-parallax point may be important, nodal points are not.
Right now I'm interested in doing Landscape panos stitching 1 row with maybe 3-5 shots.
If the entire landscape scene is faraway you don't need to bother with the no-parallax point. Parallax errors manifest themselves only with subject matter close(r) to the lens.
I anticipated having foreground in my shots however, depending on parallax issues I may need to experiment with just how much of the foreground can be included, or how close I can go.
With the nodal point centered I've done panoramas of subjects about a meter or so away. I needed the gimbal for that of course tho. I haven't really paid attention to FG elements tho so I dunno how close is still untroubled - but I would guess the same - about a meter - maybe less.
p.1 #10 · Macro Rail for setting No Parallax Point
Bifurcator wrote:
With the nodal point centered I've done panoramas of subjects about a meter or so away. I needed the gimbal for that of course tho. I haven't really paid attention to FG elements tho so I dunno how close is still untroubled - but I would guess the same - about a meter - maybe less.
Thanks, a meter is encouraging and I think doable.
p.1 #12 · Macro Rail for setting No Parallax Point
helimat wrote:
I use the RRS panning clamp on top of the ballhead, pretty much by itself these days. I have the rail as well for setting the nodal point, but rarely use it as the software is pretty amazing these days at stitching.
+1
excellent gear - been using it since 2001
get the L-Bracket as well and a rail, then when you are ready to do multi-row you can go for the rest of the kit
There's a thread about it here:
There's some shots of it setup like that here: 