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Archive 2012 · Testing the Pringles tube.
  
 
Statitica
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p.1 #1 · p.1 #1 · Testing the Pringles tube.


So, I made my own version of the Pringle Pack extension Tube, and had a quick test run with it this afternoon (it's far too hot here in Perth to stay outside for longer than 5 minutes while I'm on holidays )

First impressions:
1) I need a focus aid light, it gets real dark real quick
2) There is such a minute DOF that even the smallest bugs I found did not fit inside it
3) I might be better off getting auto tubes for my proper macro lens.
4) I forgot how hard focusing like this was.
5) The detail just doesn't seem to be there, because of the drastically reduced amount of the lens being used.

http://i981.photobucket.com/albums/ae292/statitica/DSC_9079.jpg

http://i981.photobucket.com/albums/ae292/statitica/DSC_9092.jpg

http://i981.photobucket.com/albums/ae292/statitica/DSC_9114-2.jpg



Dec 29, 2012 at 07:24 AM
e6filmuser
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p.1 #2 · p.1 #2 · Testing the Pringles tube.


Statitica wrote:
The detail just doesn't seem to be there, because of the drastically reduced amount of the lens being used.

The central part of the lens is usually better than the outer part.

You don't say which lens you used or whether you reversed it.

Harold



Dec 29, 2012 at 01:25 PM
Statitica
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p.1 #3 · p.1 #3 · Testing the Pringles tube.


Using the Nikon 50mm f/1.8D, reversed.

Had a bit more of a play and found that if I have a torch shining on my subject, I can stop down to a more suitable aperture.

http://i981.photobucket.com/albums/ae292/statitica/DSC_9139.jpg



Dec 29, 2012 at 01:59 PM
e6filmuser
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p.1 #4 · p.1 #4 · Testing the Pringles tube.


There seems to be some good potential there. You need about f11 and controlling the lighting may give you more contrast.

Harold

Edited on Dec 30, 2012 at 09:54 AM · View previous versions



Dec 29, 2012 at 02:17 PM
Bred
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p.1 #5 · p.1 #5 · Testing the Pringles tube.


That last pic has come up better.
I have just started using a head-torch. I strap it around the flash so that it is constantly shining on my subject. Makes viewing the subject easier and provides a bit more light for exposure.



Dec 29, 2012 at 10:07 PM
MarkB1
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p.1 #6 · p.1 #6 · Testing the Pringles tube.


I have a cheapie LED on a flexible neck from China strapped to the snoot, great in low light and darkness for focus assist.

I am surprised you are getting any dof at f2.8 - though you must have got it right on the eyes of the beetle. If you are using flash you can easily go up to f18, as long as the surrounds allow for a colourful frame - avoiding the black BG, and keep the SS up.

Light looks fine.

Edited on Dec 30, 2012 at 07:40 AM · View previous versions



Dec 30, 2012 at 07:15 AM
LordV
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p.1 #7 · p.1 #7 · Testing the Pringles tube.


Looking good
Brian v.



Dec 30, 2012 at 07:26 AM
e6filmuser
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p.1 #8 · p.1 #8 · Testing the Pringles tube.


I had a quick look at what Topaz Detail2 Microcontrast Enhancement can do and you would be amazed at how much more detail can be shown.

Harold



Dec 30, 2012 at 10:04 AM
bladesofgrass
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p.1 #9 · p.1 #9 · Testing the Pringles tube.


You might also try painting the inside of the tube black if you haven't already to cut down on internal reflections.


Dec 30, 2012 at 10:52 PM
MarkB1
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p.1 #10 · p.1 #10 · Testing the Pringles tube.


Don't know what advantage blackening the inner tube would give? For sharper images you might try lining the tube with foil to minimise the loss of light so the flash pulse is shortest. But you still won't get much at f2.8 - unless the exif is wrong and it is smaller as looks in last pic.


Dec 31, 2012 at 05:57 AM
 

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Statitica
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p.1 #11 · p.1 #11 · Testing the Pringles tube.


Thanks all, for stopping and commenting.

Harold, I would love to see what Topaz can do - my trial has run out... I'll send you a PM

Paul, I have done that. It's not one of the steps in the "how to" but is mentioned in the video.

Mark - If you keep the tube in it's original state (lined with foil), the light will bounce around inside it, and produce unwanted reflections. That's why you need it to be black, and also why you can't see a whole lot while peering through it. The f/2.8 is incorrect. There is no electronic connection, so the camera is using the settings from my 135 f/2.8 Ai lens.



Dec 31, 2012 at 08:16 AM
e6filmuser
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p.1 #12 · p.1 #12 · Testing the Pringles tube.


Statitica wrote:
That's why you need it to be black.

Not only black but matt black. Shiny black can cause troublesome reflections.

Harold



Dec 31, 2012 at 08:59 AM
MarkB1
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p.1 #13 · p.1 #13 · Testing the Pringles tube.


Unwanted reflections? The whole point of using a snoot is to deliver the light to the object with minimal loss. Black absorbs light, however little in this case, and minimizes the light arriving at the diffusing material. Light bouncing inside a reflective tube won't cause unwanted reflections, it will ensure the light is more evenly distributed and hits the diffusion uniformly, assuming you make account of any strong 'beams' - every snoot (and flash) has it's peculiarities. Crinkling the foil helps.

You want sharper images? The closer you get the diffused light to the object without any loss (or absorption) the sharper they will be. It comes down to the flash pulse duration, and a reflective surface won't slow it down.

Google 'black absorbs light' and you might understand better. But go with black if you believe that is best.

Statitica wrote:
Thanks all, for stopping and commenting.

Harold, I would love to see what Topaz can do - my trial has run out... I'll send you a PM

Paul, I have done that. It's not one of the steps in the "how to" but is mentioned in the video.

Mark - If you keep the tube in it's original state (lined with foil), the light will bounce around inside it, and produce unwanted reflections. That's why you need it to be black, and also why you can't see a whole lot while peering through it. The f/2.8 is incorrect. There is no electronic
...Show more



Dec 31, 2012 at 10:03 AM
Statitica
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p.1 #14 · p.1 #14 · Testing the Pringles tube.


I'm well aware that black absorbs light, and that is exactly what I want it to do.

I'm not aware of any diagrams that will help in explaining, so I'll do my best:

Essentially, the technique used here is a form of print magnification, we are projecting an image much larger than the sensor and only capturing the very center of it. Because the projected image is much larger than the sensor it will hit the side of the extension tube, and either bounce around the inside (if the inside is reflective) and produce unwanted effects, or be eliminated by a matte black finish. It is the same reason that shop bought tubes are black on the inside (and the set I had also had ripples, to counter it even more).

I hope that makes sense.



Dec 31, 2012 at 10:45 AM
MarkB1
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p.1 #15 · p.1 #15 · Testing the Pringles tube.


There's nothing wrong with my light that can't be fixed by altering the scene to provide or reduce reflection, with what I use. Each to their own.

I think you'll find the difference really kicks in when the object is moving.



Dec 31, 2012 at 11:35 AM
Statitica
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p.1 #16 · p.1 #16 · Testing the Pringles tube.


Ah, it's not the light that is on the tube, but the lens. The tube sits in between the camera and the lens; It's an extension tube, not a snoot...


Dec 31, 2012 at 11:54 AM
MarkB1
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p.1 #17 · p.1 #17 · Testing the Pringles tube.


You've got light in you ext tubes? Or you are just using a pringle tube as extension?

My knowing of the pringle tube is as a snoot. Never mind ...



Dec 31, 2012 at 12:01 PM
Statitica
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p.1 #18 · p.1 #18 · Testing the Pringles tube.


Just using it as an extension tube.


Dec 31, 2012 at 12:23 PM
MarkB1
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p.1 #19 · p.1 #19 · Testing the Pringles tube.


Don't get it wet or you will need foil in it to bend the light ... )


Dec 31, 2012 at 02:40 PM
sozypozy
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p.1 #20 · p.1 #20 · Testing the Pringles tube.


Great innovation!


Jan 02, 2013 at 10:00 PM





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