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Archive 2012 · fixing distortion

  
 
ben egbert
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p.1 #1 · p.1 #1 · fixing distortion


I was playing with a new lens that is sharp but lacks tilt and shift. This image is a hand held shot and required an upward tilt angle with no possibility to get higher. The fir tree is just naturally leaning so not much I can do and probably should have avoided it altogether.

I am including the uncorrected version, one I corrected in the lens module at Photoshop, using custom. My lens is too new to be in the data base and this was not a lens issue anyway, a TSE unshifted would have the same issue.

The next is corrected to show how much area is lost in correction.

The last is a crop of the corrected version. I know I could probably patch in some stuff in the empty area, but my question is how you would do this.

I could probably do a SOOC if anyone wants one.





uncorrected.







corrected uncropped







corrected and cropped




Oct 20, 2012 at 11:37 AM
RustyBug
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p.1 #2 · p.1 #2 · fixing distortion


I use:

Background
Duplicate Layer (BG copy)
Transform>Skew @ BG copy)
Duplicate BG Copy (BG copy 2)
Sharpen BG copy 2 to offset the pixel manipulation from the skew
Reduce Opacity of BG copy 2 to taste (usually around 85%)

On this occassion, I pulled the right corner to the right for the majority, followed by a little tug to the left upper corner. As you can see, the pine tree hasn't been changed much from the original, but the middle and right sides are have been corrected a bit more.

The outcome @ losing some real estate is still a bit of an issue, but using Skew allows you to decide which side of the image is more heavy handed than the other vs. applying equal amount to each side by default.

A subsequent tug of the left corner up & left brings the pine tree a little taller/straighter if wanted.

But, no matter how you go about it, correcting distortion eats real estate. So, for my money, it is better to shoot with a well corrected 18 than a distortion inducing 17 ... or something like that. Also, another reason why I like the TS-E's ... their larger image circle (while slightly contrast reducing) provides for better corrected projections as you aren't using (in normal mode) the edges of the projection where distortion is most prominent, i.e. a built in crop from the projection's distortions when the plane isn't kept vertical. Of course, if you are using a TS-E, you've got some other tools at your disposal.














Oct 20, 2012 at 12:42 PM
ben egbert
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p.1 #3 · p.1 #3 · fixing distortion


Thanks Kent, I tried it and it works as advertized. A new trick for future.

I still have my 17TSE but I have my 24TSE up for sale. I am trying to get down to a manageable backpack so I can hike further. Replacing a bunch of primes with a 24-70. Still need primes below 24 until Canon releases a good zoom in that range.






Kents method




Oct 20, 2012 at 01:29 PM





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