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| p.1 #13 · Customising the 5D MK III suggestions please |
I thought i knew a lot about photography but having upgraded to the 5D MK III then realises my weak link is AF . Its never been a great concern as I mostly took landscapes .
I have been attempting to move to a more dynamic subject matter, sports, action and wildlife.
There are a few customise options that I know of and will change :
Joystick to direct AF point selection (sure the MK ii did this automatically )
Assign exposure and focus to a back button.
Now here is where it gets confusing, there are so many options. i have never used the my own settings options or built my own profile. i am assuming i can set up various profiles. Landscape, portrait, Sports etc . Sorry to sound a little dim. Am on a steep learning curve.
I have downloaded the AF guides from canon's web page and has the manual (dry as a bone) and is considering paying for Klosterman's E, book, 'The Canon 5D Mark 111 Bible' . Is the e book worth paying for ?
So if i am setting up a few profiles, a Sports action profile what customising would you do, what settings ? Any advice appreciated. I may have to find a photography vacation that specialises in this subject.
I'd make to sure to set C1-C3 to auto-update. Conditions always change on the fly and it's so nice for them you adjust and retain. You can have one for video say and then another for maybe the non-action shots (crowd shots you might be able to go to lower ISO and perhaps want higher f-stop, who knows) and then maybe one for action in dark area and then the main settings can be the typical action as conditions change it will always be up to date with the latest you need at the moment and not revert to some useless outdated conditions and you won't have to keep bothering to dig in menus and reprogram.
You can flip between taking video clips, two types of more static stills and two types of action shots without having to waste precious second resetting and programming and missing important things and going crazy from the annoyance of it all. Or you may not need so many just for action and make one a general landscape starting point, one for really low light static, one for low light action, one for bright action, etc. whatever works.
As far as the focus to back button. Sometimes that is better, but don't think that you have to do that all the time just because you read it on some forum. Many sports shooters actually don't use that all that often. It depends on the person or scenario. The super tele lenses have their own AF freeze buttons and such and many far prefer those to messing with shifting af to back button. And when you don't need back button reframe stuff many find it more natural and easier to just leave AF on front. I know in forums it can be heresy to say that, but on the side lines I saw more people actually just leave it on front much of the time than permanently on the back, although I certainly saw the latter too.
Make sure to keep shutter speeds wayyy up for action. To the landscape shooter 1/250th or 1/320th sounds like over the top action freezing but that is considering almost like 6" to an action shooter.
Also most people use Av or M mode for action and not Tv, although Tv may be used for special purposes.
For sports action you are often shooting wide open, if not always.
Even for crowds you sometimes needs fast shutters if you are close and they are leaping and up and whipping around in excitement, it doesn't actually take too much to blur.
But really there is no one way ot set things up, each scenario will be different, each person might do a bit different variation for each scneario.
Edited on Jul 19, 2012 at 05:30 PM · View previous versions