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Archive 2011 · 135L focusing chat
  
 
thousandhills
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p.1 #1 · p.1 #1 · 135L focusing chat


Hi,

I recently add the gem to my 70-200 f/4IS & Sigma 50f/1.4 lens collection. My 1st copy was seriously back focusing - some shots come out nice, but couldn't get sharp eyes. It showed back-focusing on test cart & my 2nd copy from B&H was good with the test chart & occasionally back focus a bit.

I have a Great copy of 70-200 f/4 IS, hit rate is very high & I rarely miss shots due to focusing issue.

Here is the question:

1. I did a shoot this weekend, I realize with a shutter speed higher than 1/200 my in-focus shot count greatly improved. Going from the 70200IS to 135L there is some learning (tele w/o IS).. But still when shooting extreme closeups - when focusing on the right eye, the left would come out sharp - back focusing a bit. Very important point to note - "At times" & not always -at around 1/400s using 5DmkI. Could it be that the AF is just fine and the shift is due to body movement either me or the model (between the time camera confirms focus & I hit the shutter release)? Will I get improved results with "AI servo" & holding the AF-ON while releasing the shutter?
[The model had very good control in holding a pose]

But, the lens is pure joy to work with the results are simply astounding - definitely an improvement over 70-200f/4IS & Sigma50f/1.4 for planned stationary portraiture (I believe I have very good copies of lens) - between the 3 - sharpness, color (sigma colors are different, but nice too) & contrast are the same. Bokeh is nice on all 3. may the FL (perspective) is about right for Portraits with very nice background blur.

2. Can the lens / coating improve the DR captured? Something nice about the lens thats hard to express.. but then I have said the same about my other lenses too.

Thanks,
-Mike.



Dec 12, 2011 at 07:55 PM
BrianO
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p.1 #2 · p.1 #2 · 135L focusing chat


thousandhills wrote:
...I have a Great copy of 70-200 f/4 IS, hit rate is very high & I rarely miss shots due to focusing issue. ...I did a shoot this weekend, I realize with a shutter speed higher than 1/200 my in-focus shot count greatly improved.


Often what is thought to be a focus problem is actually motion blur, and higher shutter speeds reduce motion blur. IS helps, but subject motion can't be corrected by IS.

thousandhills wrote:
...Going from the 70200IS to 135L there is some learning (tele w/o IS).. But still when shooting extreme closeups - when focusing on the right eye, the left would come out sharp - back focusing a bit. Very important point to note - "At times" & not always... Could it be that the AF is just fine and the shift is due to body movement either me or the model (between the time camera confirms focus & I hit the shutter release)? Will I get improved results with "AI servo" & holding the AF-ON while releasing the shutter?


When doing extreme close-ups at wide apertures the depth of field can be so thin that your body movement combined with the subject's movement can cause focus shifts. Just holding the camera to your eye and then breathing can be enough to do it. For closeups at wide apertures, I like to use a tripod or camera stand to elliminate camera shifts as a factor.



Dec 12, 2011 at 08:08 PM
jcolwell
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p.1 #3 · p.1 #3 · 135L focusing chat


Hi Mike,

I normally use One Shot AF with the 135L, for static subjects. Using AI Servo and giving it a 'bump' just before shooting should also work fine, but I don't think you'll see an advantage by keeping is depressed while shooting.

I often use a light monopod with the 135L at slow shutter speeds, say under about 1/500 sec. It helps me to get more consistent results. The 135L works very well with a Canon 500N close up auxiliary lens, for which controlling camera motion is even more important.

Jim



Dec 12, 2011 at 08:39 PM
thousandhills
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p.1 #4 · p.1 #4 · 135L focusing chat


Brian, Jim,

Thanks for sharing your thoughts - I always carry my tripod with me, which I use inside my studio, but lack the inclination to use it when shoots outside. Could you suggest a light monopod, which can be attached & removed quickly.
I have the extension tubes, I guess the close-up lens would be more convenient in the field - Thanks for the tip. How is the IQ?

Thanks,
-Mike.



Dec 12, 2011 at 08:47 PM
John_T
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p.1 #5 · p.1 #5 · 135L focusing chat


If I may suggest a monopod and ballhead, I am delighted with my Manfrotto 694 Magfiber and a Markins Q3 or M10 ballhead.


Dec 12, 2011 at 09:04 PM
 

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BrianO
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p.1 #6 · p.1 #6 · 135L focusing chat


thousandhills wrote:
...Could you suggest a light monopod, which can be attached & removed quickly.


I have this one: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/644649-REG/Trek_Tech_00110_TrekPod_II_With_MagMount.html

Here's a video on the newer (and more expensive) "Go! Pro" version:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d7sam2Z4qv4&feature=player_embedded

There's also an even lighter (and even more expensive) carbon fiber "XL" model.



Dec 12, 2011 at 09:07 PM
jcolwell
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p.1 #7 · p.1 #7 · 135L focusing chat


The IQ's fine with the 500N closeup aux lens on the 135L. Maybe not as good as a true macro, nor nearly as flexible (it has a restricted 'in focus' range like extension tubes), but it's much easier to carry than an extra lens.

One big advantage for a closeup aux lens like the 500N is that it doesn't reduce the amount of light getting to the sensor, as an extension tube does, big time. This isn't a problem if you're shooting a static subject using a tripod, but the close up aux lens is a great solution for walkabouts and for when you're traveling light. If you're interested in this type of gizmo, I highly recommend the Canon 500N, which has two optical elements that provides relatively good performance right into the corners on FF . I've also used a single-element B+W closeup aux lens, and it shows some CA at the edges and in the corners (it's less well-corrected).

The light monopod I mentioned is a Manfrotto 676B Digi monopod. Unfortunately, it seems to be out of production. Here's the vital stats on the three monopods that I use. The Feisol is most all-purpose, but the Digi easily beats it for travel with light gear, up to a 1D-series with 70-200/2.8L IS or 28-300L IS.







Dec 12, 2011 at 09:16 PM
John_T
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p.1 #8 · p.1 #8 · 135L focusing chat


! replaced my 676 with the 694 as the 676 is quite spindly in comparison, easily blocked by sand or dirt and the clips started breaking. The 676 is a bit lighter, is the same length as the 694 closed, but the 694 extends longer.


Dec 12, 2011 at 09:37 PM
jcolwell
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p.1 #9 · p.1 #9 · 135L focusing chat


John_T wrote:
! replaced my 676 with the 694 as the 676 is quite spindly in comparison, easily blocked by sand or dirt and the clips started breaking. The 676 is a bit lighter, is the same length as the 694 closed, but the 694 extends longer.


I go for my Feisol when it's sandy outside.



Dec 12, 2011 at 09:48 PM
John_T
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p.1 #10 · p.1 #10 · 135L focusing chat


I've always preferred clips, maybe I should try twists for a change.


Dec 12, 2011 at 10:57 PM





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