Some outstanding IR images on this (edit: well, looks like it's the previous) page, well done. Very enjoayble viewing that invites me to explore the images for awhile.
Colin,
You can stop now. After your Cornwall street scenes (plus many other earlier ones), and TheOtherKav's mountain, and wildlife IR images I ordered the filter from LifePixel. My 7D is anticipating being used again. Today I was going to look for glue to put the rubbers back on - got any recommendations?
Jim
James Markus wrote:
Colin,
You can stop now. After your Cornwall street scenes (plus many other earlier ones), and TheOtherKav's mountain, and wildlife IR images I ordered the filter from LifePixel. My 7D is anticipating being used again. Today I was going to look for glue to put the rubbers back on - got any recommendations?
Jim
I have used this to fix flappy/loose bits on trainers, shoes etc.
Works an absolute treat on the camera rubbers.
No issues with peeling or slipping whatsoever.
It also allows you to remove the rubbers again should you need to take the camera apart at a later date.
On application excess glue can be easily removed. As it dries it becomes rubbery and you can just work excess away with your finger, nail or toothpick. The more you work it the more it dries and crumbles.
DeltaSigma wrote:
That's interesting.
I never use my 28/2.8 AI-S or 138/2.8 AI-S for infrared - images have always been soft (on DX IR ) compared to other lenses.
My 135/2.8 AI-S is the worst perfoming lens in IR that I have.
Therefore I reach for the 200/4 AI-S when I need something longer and 24/2.8 NC in preference to the 28/2.8.
My general experience is that the newer coatings of the later-day MF lenses rob acuity in IR.
Having said that I have both 50/2 H and HC varieties and my HC version performs a little better in side by side comparisons with its older brother. 85/1.8 HC is also very good. I should pick up an 85 H to see how that fares.
Will give my meagre lens collection a workout when I get my D610 back from conversion. I ma eagre to see whether my experience holds true or whether the filter/sensor combo alters things.
For the lenses I used, think older. A 2.8cm f3.5, and a 135mm f2.8 AI (not AI-s). Butnive had great luck with all my lenses. Some do have a hot spot. But none were really that bad. The 14-24 flares really bad. But that's about the worst I have to deal with. The live view focusing is a huge help. And my camera is near IR only (830mm+), so it's also inherently monochromatic. I feel that's helping tremendously with getting really sharp photos. Because you're taking four sub pixels average out to make a single pixel. I'm not sure how my setup compares to yours, but I'd love to hear more about your setup.
What Colin said, James. The second picture is also why I make no attempt to remove noise from my pictures and the first thing I do on receipt of a camera is to turn of all noise reduction. The second one is really a great photo.
Colin,
Which IR Filter do you use - 720nm, 830nm? I opted for the Deep B&W Infrared (830nm) filter - as I am not interested in the wack color IR images. (I can make those in photoshop easily.) That first image with the mix of trees and man made objects (the sign) seem to be perfect subjects for IR. But people or animals mix in great as well - IMO. My 13-14 attempts at Photoshop IR actions could not get the foliage correct, or exactly how I wanted it. The skylines or cityscapes look great, and even got skies the way I wanted, but on foliage inverting was as close as I could get, and it just doesn't look right.
Jim
DeltaSigma wrote:
Liskeard railway station (branch line to Looe)
Playing with textures quite awhile ago. Title: "Twig & Vase"
Manual focus Nikkor, but I don't know which one. My guess is the 28mm f2.8 ais. (Can't find the raw file - probably have it on a dvd. It is from Feb 11th 2012)
I have always opted for a 720nm.
The 830nm filter did get consideration for my D610 conversion but I decided to stick with what I am familiar with.
You will lose a stop or more light with the 830 over the 720.
Colin
James Markus wrote:
Colin,
Which IR Filter do you use - 720nm, 830nm? I opted for the Deep B&W Infrared (830nm) filter - as I am not interested in the wack color IR images. (I can make those in photoshop easily.) That first image with the mix of trees and man made objects (the sign) seem to be perfect subjects for IR. But people or animals mix in great as well - IMO. My 13-14 attempts at Photoshop IR actions could not get the foliage correct, or exactly how I wanted it. The skylines or cityscapes look great, and even got skies the way I wanted, but on foliage inverting was as close as I could get, and it just doesn't look right.
Jim
Went for a Z5 today - sold my D7100 ( a much loved camera ) and "traded up" an old N80 analogue SLR when it gets here I'll see if it's easier to use my MF glass on the FTZ. Should be fun so watch this space
MontanaKid wrote:
Just listed a pristine copy of the first Nikon 50mm f1.8 Ais lens originally intended for the Japanese market only.
From "Evaluations By Bjørn Rørslett":
"The earliest AIS version of the 50/1.8 delivers a truly stellar performance on the D2X. The field is admirably flat, too. There is nothing more to be said here. As perfect a lens as anyone could imagine. What a shining little star this lens proved itself to be."
First picture below at its new home. (shot with the GFX50s and Bronica Nikkor 75mm)
Second shot - was literally the second shot I made with the 50mm on the Df this morning. Was filling the hummingbird feeders and they were getting impatient with me.
George,
I've shot hummers with many lenses (300mm afs f4 in my avatar), and the best shot I ever saw was with a guy with a 50mm normal lens. He trained the little guys to land in his palm while took their portraits.
Jim
GeorgeBo wrote:
This lens had to stay in the "family"
First picture below at its new home. (shot with the GFX50s and Bronica Nikkor 75mm)
Second shot - was literally the second shot I made with the 50mm on the Df this morning. Was filling the hummingbird feeders and they were getting impatient with me.
