I Was at the pier for a few min. today and meet this very nice gentleman that said take my picture, so I did. He was also out taking pictures and we struck up a conversation.
Went down on the beach this morning and watched a couple of surfers trying to get a ride and I noticed the one in the second image having a hard time getting to shore and ran over to see if he was ok. He told me when he went in after losing a wave his board came up and smacked the crap out of him..