This was an experiment. I was looking for big, chunky grain and was curious to see if pushing Kentmere 400 to 1600 with Cinestill DF96 Monobath would do it.
6 minutes dev time @ 90.
Here is a selection of images from that roll (Leica M7, CV 40 1.2) taken in blazing sunlight and very dim indoor conditions. I wanted to see how it would handle opposite ends of the exposure scale!
No exposure compensation in post/scanning. Just straight conversions.
Frankly the results were not what I expected - and in a good way. A little more grain but surprisingly little. Still great tonal range.
I love Kentmere 400! The fact that it is the cheapest B&W film on the market is a huge bonus.
Desmolicious wrote:
This was an experiment. I was looking for big, chunky grain and was curious to see if pushing Kentmere 400 to 1600 with Cinestill DF96 Monobath would do it.
6 minutes dev time @ 90.
Here is a selection of images from that roll (Leica M7, CV 40 1.2) taken in blazing sunlight and very dim indoor conditions. I wanted to see how it would handle opposite ends of the exposure scale!
No exposure compensation in post/scanning. Just straight conversions.
Frankly the results were not what I expected - and in a good way. A little more grain but surprisingly little. Still great tonal range.
I love Kentmere 400! The fact that it is the cheapest B&W film on the market is a huge bonus.
Your images make me think back to my film importing and shooting days...
Kentmere 400 was a popular choice amongst my student clients. That and bulk stock APX 100. Later Rollei RPX 100.
Anyways. I liked developers without any grain solvents, and basically ended up making my own Rodinal. Importing it into South Africa was difficult on the best days.
Have you tried extended agitation intervals with Rodinal 1:25? Basically, some compensation or edge effect can be achieved while maintaining the natural film tone curve which won't become too dull and grey. The image can get quite a kick in acutance. I loved developing TRI-X 400 like this between EI 320 and 640.
So instead of the usual 30sec to 60sec agitation intervals, one increases them to every 3minutes. A pre-soak usually helps, gentle initial agitation for first 30-45 sec, then every 3 minutes. Increase dev time by roughly 33%.
Adding 1g of Sodium Ascorbate for every 5ml of Rodinal concentrate used will increase developer activity by roughly another 30%, and also sharpens up the grain structure a little.
Your images make me think back to my film importing and shooting days...
Kentmere 400 was a popular choice amongst my student clients. That and bulk stock APX 100. Later Rollei RPX 100.
Anyways. I liked developers without any grain solvents, and basically ended up making my own Rodinal. Importing it into South Africa was difficult on the best days.
Have you tried extended agitation intervals with Rodinal 1:25? Basically, some compensation or edge effect can be achieved while maintaining the natural film tone curve which won't become too dull and grey. The image can get quite a kick in acutance. I loved developing TRI-X 400 like this between EI 320 and 640.
So instead of the usual 30sec to 60sec agitation intervals, one increases them to every 3minutes. A pre-soak usually helps, gentle initial agitation for first 30-45 sec, then every 3 minutes. Increase dev time by roughly 33%.
Adding 1g of Sodium Ascorbate for every 5ml of Rodinal concentrate used will increase developer activity by roughly another 30%, and also sharpens up the grain structure a little....Show more →
Thanks! The only developer I use is the monobath because I have so little space, and it makes things so simple.
I didn't edit the pics - straight digicam 'scan' to conversion.
Here is what i would normally do with a simple edit - before and after:
Desmolicious wrote:
Thanks! The only developer I use is the monobath because I have so little space, and it makes things so simple.
I didn't edit the pics - straight digicam 'scan' to conversion.
Here is what i would normally do with a simple edit - before and after:
