Charles, wonderful pics, makes me want to explore getting a lux too! The 1st one is my favourite, very impressive!
Ron, wanted to ask you if the 21mm Zeiss has the red edge problem even if you code it manually as a pre-asph lens? Is the softwaer fix easy to implement?
Joakim, KL and Joe... Thank you for the kind words
Joakim, congratulations on the 90 Elmarit It an excellent lens, very easy to focus, and I have seen many great shots with this lens on different forums. BTW, very nice shots! I really like the rendering of the last shot!
Joakim, very nice! I'm partial to the first and last images. I've heard very good things about the 90 Elmarit and look forward to more images, though I think I'm more partial to 75mm at the moment.
Same with your set Charles - first and last. Great feeling in both of them. The one of the horses by the water, IMO the WB is on the cool and magenta side for my taste, but it's just a nitpick.
Luka, interesting contrast of landscapes. There is a certain lunar quality to the Egypt scenes.
h00ligan wrote:
I didn't sharpen this as much as some others.. and I went just a touch too heavy on the clarity slider (dark halo lower left building)..
The clarity slider can really add some pop, but the danger is halos in areas with sharp transitions to areas with very little tonal gradation. A little trick that I figured out, and it's probably no secret, is to use the mask brush and set the clarity setting to the negative value you have selected for the overall image and brush it into the areas where the halo is obvious to cancel it out. In your image, try to keep the mask to just the sky and not on the building. Also, negative clarity is a great quick fix for portraits where you want to smooth skin tone. Just paint it over the face and erase areas of the mask where you want to retain sharpness, such as the eyes, lips, eyebrows, etc. The poor man's method to achieve some 75 Lux glow
This cam, macbook air, firmware update.. should be a wicked travel combo.
I love the MBA but my GF loves it even more and won't give it back! I'm hoping if I hold out long enough the next revision will include USB 3, which for me would make it almost perfect.
singletrack wrote:
Ron, wanted to ask you if the 21mm Zeiss has the red edge problem even if you code it manually as a pre-asph lens? Is the softwaer fix easy to implement?
cheers
KL
Hi KL, I have the lens coded as the 21 non-ASPH and yes, there is still a slight red shift. In many scenes it will not be very noticeable, especially when there is a lot of detail and vibrant colour. It will become noticeable though with lighter monochromatic subjects such as snow, sand, concrete walls... So far I haven't bothered setting up a cornerfix profile for it and instead fix it in Lightroom. For the previous snow scenes I simply applied a desaturation mask to the snow and set a WB to get the rest of the snow close enough in colour quality to the desaturated areas. It might sound a bit complicated but was a pretty quick fix. I've also experimented with brushing in some light cyan or using a gradient of light cyan and it can work too when you can't desaturate an area. If I had many dozens of ZM 21 snow scenes, then I'd make the effort to set up a cornerfix profile as it would be a much faster and more effective solution, but so far my shot ratio has probably been 85% with the 35mm and the rest with the 21. As you can see from Luka's clean ZM 18 images, a proper cornerfix profile will be the best solution, or an LCC profile in C1 (Charles can explain this one).
I have also read it's somewhat camera dependent (Charles may chime in on this one too as he's probably the only one here with two M9s), so it could be possible that your M9 & ZM 21 combo might work better with one of the Leica lens codes than my combo. FWIW, I also get a slight red edge with the ZM 35 f/2.8 and have tried a few different Leica lens codes without much luck. Yet others, such as Dan (Thrice), have stated no red edge issues with his combo.
A random Munich street scene with the ZM 35 f/2.8 at Münchner Freiheit.
Thanks Ron! Nice shot!
Really appreciate the info. I suppose the fix is not to get a Leica 21 Elmarit as that too may have red edge issues (not that I am minded to spend that amount!)?
Only had time to take a snap with the 21mm Zeiss i just received (through office windows)
Ron, thank you Nice shots and PP! Appreciate the feedback. Yes Australian scenery can be difficult to nail the WB sometimes, particularly before the lighting has softened. Main focus was getting the horses colour to be natural to my perception, which probably required some extra magenta, to counter the reflection from the grass. I will try some different versions though
KL, very nice shot! Very nice rendering with the ZM 21
singletrack wrote:
Tx Ron and Charles. F4 at 8seconds but i could have sworn I put it at 5.6.
The M9 guesses the aperture and I seem to recall Luka stating that all of his long exposures are recorded as f/4 in the EXIF. It most likely was set at f/5.6.
Charles, I know what you mean about green foliage reflecting green light. It can easily make skin tones shift yellow/green. To get the horses the right colour without throwing off the overall WB I would try adjusting the hue sliders for red, orange and maybe yellow.
Ryan, thank you! Yes the 75 Lux is such a unique and amazing lens. My favourite f stop settings with this lens are between f/1.4 to 2.8. At smaller openings, f/4 and higher I think I prefer the 75 Cron Apo though. The hardest thing to grasp, is that PP is very different between the 75 Lux and Cron Apo.
Hi Charles, Have been offered a good price for the 90 APO - what are your thoughts on this lens? I would have preferred a 75 AA but with the current stock situation with the new Leica lenses, you don't get to choose what you want these days!
The 90AA is an awesome lens, and I prefer it to the 75 Cron! It has a little more of that classic glow look without being unsharp in any way. Razor-sharp lens. It is lumpier than the 75 Cron, but to me it is preferable in every other way. It is a bit long on the M8 though, so I look forward to a FF M in my future.
KL, I agree with Carsten with respect to the 90 AA. Brilliant lens. Feels about the same size at the 75 Lux. Make sure it is well calibrated, and focuses consistently in both directions. My 90 AA is now being returned from Solms, after having been repaired with the support bushes, that were every so slightly out of alignment. Nett result was the lens, would not consistently focus in both directions. Other thing is make sure the focus is optimised for your M9, and you will have a brilliant lens. I feel the 90 APO is somewhat more critical in getting it calibrated correctly, and may explain some of the negative comments on the forums.