This is taken, in a dark food court in the basement of a department store, with Portra 400 pushed two stops. I would also have liked to try Portra 800, on which a two-stop push would take me to ISO 3200, but that film is not available in Thailand. The Kodak film data sheets provide information on pushing Portra 800 one and two stops, but none on pushing Portra 400. Pushing Portra 400 increases contrast, which is this dark environment, I quite like. I wonder what others think?
Leica M3 | DR Summicron 50 | Portra 400 pushed 2 stops Chiang Mai
Mitch, looks good to me. It has a very interesting colour palette. The blocked up shadows enhance the feel.
Edward, any significance to the maternity ward visit?
Alpha_Geist wrote:
Thank you Gary!
We were using two portable Promaster LED lights. These units are slim (roughly same thickness as 1.5 iPhones) with a built in rechargeable battery. They were both daylight balanced with a single on/off switch and brightness dial. We used the included diffuser.
- ProMaster LED120SS Super Slim Rechargeable LED Light (120 led lights, 16x9 format, about size of an iPhone, 2hr run time)
- ProMaster LED320SS Super Slim Rechargeable LED Light (320 led lights, about the size of a 5"x7" photo, 4hr run time)
I ended up buying a grip to screw (1/4-20) onto the bottom for better hand holding. It is a bit tricky to light the subject with the led panel in one hand and operate a rangefinder with the other. I might find a cheap skinny and short light stand to mount the panel to next time though.
Like in the last photo, using the led panel with an AF camera (x-t2) in each hand was easy. ...Show more →
Interesting. Maybe find an aluminum backpack frame with harness and super clamp an articulating arm (or two) to it onto which you mount the light and then wear as a backpack to give you handsfree lighting. Maybe you could even mod it to better fit into the cosplay environment.
rscheffler wrote: Alpha_Geist wroteThank you Gary!
We were using two portable Promaster LED lights. These units are slim (roughly same thickness as 1.5 iPhones) with a built in rechargeable battery. They were both daylight balanced with a single on/off switch and brightness dial. We used the included diffuser.
- ProMaster LED120SS Super Slim Rechargeable LED Light (120 led lights, 16x9 format, about size of an iPhone, 2hr run time)
- ProMaster LED320SS Super Slim Rechargeable LED Light (320 led lights, about the size of a 5"x7" photo, 4hr run time)
I ended up buying a grip to screw (1/4-20) onto the bottom for better hand holding. It is a bit tricky to light the subject with the led panel in one hand and operate a rangefinder with the other. I might find a cheap skinny and short light stand to mount the panel to next time though.
Like in the last photo, using the led panel with an AF camera (x-t2) in each hand was easy.Interesting. Maybe find an aluminum backpack frame with harness and super clamp an articulating arm (or two) to it onto which you mount the light and then wear as a backpack to give you handsfree lighting. Maybe you could even mod it to better fit into the cosplay environment.
Ron, I think you may be on to something here! I'm sure there must be some character in anime/comics/pop culture that I could mimic under the guise of "fitting in." Haha!
Mitch Alland wrote:
This is taken, in a dark food court in the basement of a department store, with Portra 400 pushed two stops. I would also have liked to try Portra 800, on which a two-stop push would take me to ISO 3200, but that film is not available in Thailand. The Kodak film data sheets provide information on pushing Portra 800 one and two stops, but none on pushing Portra 400. Pushing Portra 400 increases contrast, which is this dark environment, I quite like. I wonder what others think?
One of two photos I had time to edit before driving to Sydney from Canberra that afternoon (yesterday). Photo taken when out with 2 fellow amateur photographer friends and ex-colleagues.
rscheffler wrote:
Interesting. Maybe find an aluminum backpack frame with harness and super clamp an articulating arm (or two) to it onto which you mount the light and then wear as a backpack to give you handsfree lighting. Maybe you could even mod it to better fit into the cosplay environment.
Alpha_Geist wrote:
Ron, I think you may be on to something here! I'm sure there must be some character in anime/comics/pop culture that I could mimic under the guise of "fitting in." Haha!
rscheffler wrote:
Mitch, looks good to me. It has a very interesting colour palette. The blocked up shadows enhance the feel
Thanks. I love the riot of colors in your p.1397 #8
The blockedup shadows on my couple of shots above really reflect the overall darkness of that food court, with somewhat distant areas brightly lit up. My second picture, p.1397 #7, the one with the young woman in a miniskirt, is one that I like because of the distribution of lighting, with a lot of darkness on the foreground, which gives a feeing of depth. Often I find that pictures I've posted and like a lot are not at all popular on flickr, but for this photo this disconnect is extreme: as of now it's had 132 views and no faves or comments.
lenticular11 - thanks for the kind words.
I thought the following could be of interest to some, and it's about two Leica photographers.The color photography that I've been particularly struck by is that of ioulex, a duo of a Russian woman an American man who met while studying at the Parsons School of Design in Paris. Working out of New York and Paris, they do commercial work in fashion, beauty and celebrity. As revealed in http://blog.leica-camera.com/2011/02/23/ioulex-reporting-from-fashion-week/%22]an interview on the Leica blog[/URL] they love to shoot film with their M6 and M3 cameras. I saw https://www.instagram.com/p/BKBOqfIhPJk/%22]this portrait of Isabelle Huppert[/URL] in the New Yorker, and then did a web search and saw the exiting color work that they've done — I also like their black-and-white. Their work is highly creative, often with out-of-focus elements, wild colors and great fluidity — the sort of elements that often make other photographers throw away an image.
I'm normally not interested in commercial photography of fashion/beauty/celebrity, but the remarkable thing is that the ioulex commercial work looks like it could be personal work. Here is anotherhttps://www.instagram.com/p/BPDPET5lQ8-/%22] portrait of Isabelle Huppert[/URL] as well as https://www.instagram.com/p/BEWtkZ3gDFx/%22]a double portrait here[/URL]. You can see the broad range of their work on http://www.ioulex.com%22]the ioulex website[/URL].
Ron - love the vibrant color of your recent posts and the abstracts.
Mitch - thanks for the information - I will check it out. Continue to post what you like and love - don't worry about the likes. Question - how are you metering with the M3? I realize some film types have a lot of latitude but I suppose you would still need to be close. Are you at a point where you can guesstimate the exposure without a meter? I almost bought a mint M3 two years ago but thought it would be a pain without meter.... Someone just gave me a PEN EE (half frame) though which is kinda cool. Tried it out a bit today...
I'm using the tiny Sekonic L-208 and taking incident readings. Actually, I started thinking about buying an M3 when I was shooting in the bright harsh midday tropical light of Thailand: shooting in the street one moves repeatedly from direct sunlight into several areas of shade with different degrees of light intensity. With the M6 I found I was constantly chasing the light readings as I moved in the street — seeing only the LED meter diodes in the viewfinder, you don't have the meter readings in mind — and I found that constantly checking the readings distracted me from the subject. Of course, I could have simply removed the battery from my M6 and bought a light meter, but I wanted a second film camera, for color and B&W; and also liked the M3 viewfinder, which I find I can focus more quickly because of the blueish cast to the viewfinder itself and the contrasting yellow cast to the rangefinder patch.
Now, I just go out in the street and take a few incident readings, one in the open sun and, say, two areas of shade — and then put away the meter and change the aperture as I move between these areas. After a while, you can pretty much estimate these readings without the meter, particularly if the starting point is the typical bright tropical light. If you go to another region, you have recalibrate this in your mind.
I'm using the tiny Sekonic L-208 and taking incident readings. Actually, I started thinking about buying an M3 when I was shooting in the bright harsh midday tropical light of Thailand: shooting in the street one moves repeatedly from direct sunlight into several areas of shade with different degrees of light intensity. With the M6 I found I was constantly chasing the light readings as I moved in the street — seeing only the LED meter diodes in the viewfinder, you don't have the meter readings in mind — and I found that constantly checking the readings distracted me from the subject. Of course, I could have simply removed the battery from my M6 and bought a light meter, but I wanted a second film camera, for color and B&W; and also liked the M3 viewfinder, which I find I can focus more quickly because of the blueish cash to the viewfinder itself and the contrasting yellow cast to the rangefinder patch.
Now, I just go out in the street and take a few incident readings, one in the open sun and, say, two areas of shade — and then put away the meter and change the aperture as I move between these areas. After a while, you can pretty much estimate these readings without the meter, particularly if the starting point is the typical bright tropical light. If you go to another region, you have recalibrate this in your mind....Show more →
Great info Mitch - really appreciate it. One day I will own a film M!