Charlie, the visual pun of hair and snout fur works equally well, but the range of blues in the background, created, I assume, by mixed light, is somewhat distracting because it's not obvious where it's coming from. Perhaps neutralizing those background colors somewhat would work better.
Joshua Lowe wrote:
Just a test shot using the MM246 and APO-Cron 50. What a combination. This is at ISO 800, f2. It's as clean and sharp as my M240+Summilux 50 1.4 ASPH at ISO 200, f8. I really did not expect to be so enthralled by the Monochrom.
Mitch - Interesting video. I think I would need a monochrome to force myself to shoot black and white. Otherwise, I'd almost always pick color. I only convert to B&W when I'm trying to salvage a photo. Be it from high iso color noise, or tints in the shadows, or just general tricky lighting.
Still doesn't stop me from admiring everyone else's black and white photos!!
adamdewilde wrote:
Mitch - Interesting video. I think I would need a monochrome to force myself to shoot black and white. Otherwise, I'd almost always pick color. I only convert to B&W when I'm trying to salvage a photo. Be it from high iso color noise, or tints in the shadows, or just general tricky lighting.
Still doesn't stop me from admiring everyone else's black and white photos!!
Adam - understandable that you don't shoot with B&W in mind when your colors are so great. A M-Monochrom is a great camera though — and I would love to see the results you'd get. BTW, I use the method in the video clip for the Monochrom as well.
Shooting into the light: the first three pictures below were shot on film. The fourth one is one of my first few M-Monochrom shots, which I have just reprocessed with Silver Efex; again, I was able easily to get a look that I much prefer to what I had done with Lightroom.
Leica M6 | Elmarit-21 ASPH | Tri-X rated at ISO 200 | Imacon Precision III Bangkok
Leica M6 | Summilux-50 pre-ASPH | Tri-X rated at 1600 | Imacon Precision III | f/1.4 Bangkok
Leica M6 | Noctilux-50 | Delta 3200 rated at ISO 1000 | Imacon Precision III | f/1.0 Bangkok
M-Monochrom | Summilux-50 pre-ASPH | ISO 640 | f/2.8 | 1/125 sec Paris
adamdewilde wrote:
My wallet is giving you a dirty look right now.
Mitch is a good MM salesman. He really gets a jump outta that thing. And relms with his APO..... But I'm with you. I always go for the color or trash the shot. Sometimes I have something I want but am not happy with in color. Then I "do it". Otherwise I'd rather watch Mitch and Allen etc Even my "Two Heads" shot, I far prefer the color, and I even like like the blues on the right.
That said, an MM would be a very nice toy
But today with my house portraits, even the color was monochrome:
Shooting into the light in color. Here are a few M9 shots, including some night shots — I'll keep these to a minimum because, except for one, I've posted them before; they all use the technique of Shoot at ISO 640 and Push in Lightroom.
uhoh7 wrote:
...Mitch, TY for the comments, I let it go to 800, maybe I should cap at 640. I agree on that first color shot: to my taste the M9 often delivers a rich and subtle palette
Charlie - from what you say here, I assume you haven't seen the posts here and LUF on the Shoot at ISO 640 and Push in Lightroom technique. It's based on the tests made by Jim Kasson on his blog for a variety of camera. He concludes that for the M9 it's better to increase ISO in-camera up to ISO 640 and after that to "push" (Exposure) in Lightroom — and there's a reason that he specifies Lightroom. For the M-Monochrom it's up to ISO 1250, and for the M240 as well; but with the M240 Kasson found that pushing in PP resulted in banding (or green stripes?] — I don't know whether he found the solution for that, as I am not an M240-wallah.
M9-P | Summcron-28 | ISO 640 | f/4.0 | 1/350 sec Paris
M9-P | Elmarit-21 ASPH | ISO 640 pushed 1.8 stops | f/2.8 | 1/60 sec Pak Nam Pran
, though I like shooting in the light after the storm.
