Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
p.1025 #1Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
Edwardkaraa, I too would be very happy if I could see the IQ difference between the two. I think that would mitigate every concern.
I have been reading on 35 fle and it's comparisons to others. I have 35summicron asph. Can't say I saw the full potential of this on a7. Love 50 lux, that glow I can see on a7 too I feel. Does 35fle have this glow too. I am usually shooting in low light indoors so mostly my shots are wide open or close.
And, although a7 is mirror less too but I have seen that with m8,sometimes I can shoot at very low shutter speed but not with a7. Is there a scientific reason for it or its just in my mind.
I have been reading on 35 fle and it's comparisons to others. I have 35summicron asph. Can't say I saw the full potential of this on a7. Love 50 lux, that glow I can see on a7 too I feel. Does 35fle have this glow too. I am usually shooting in low light indoors so mostly my shots are wide open or close.
And, although a7 is mirror less too but I have seen that with m8,sometimes I can shoot at very low shutter speed but not with a7. Is there a scientific reason for it or its just in my mind.
Nov 14, 2014 at 06:30 AM
p.1025 #2Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
edwardkaraa wrote:
Very interesting points Gary, and this shows the different "tastes" of different users. I have always liked solid blacks in my photos since slide film days, and the M9 didn't need much help to emulate that. The M(240) however needs a lot of persuasion 
In fact, it's almost impossible to get solid blacks in some shots with the contrast slider alone, without ruining the shot that is.
Hi Edward, have you tried playing around with the curves tool? You can get solid blacks quite easily with this. The black slider works by affecting the dark region, so if you pull it back the dark region will become darker. The curves however can work the opposite way, instead of affecting the entire "dark" region you can manipulate it so that only the darkest areas of the picture is effected. This way you have much better control of the areas you want to manipulate and you won't get as much spill as you would using the black slider. All you have to do is click on the bottom left point, and drag it to the right without moving up or down. If you move up you will lower the black intensity but if you stay in a straight line you will maintain black at 0. I hope that makes sense, good luck!
By the way I apologize for hijacking this thread but are there any forumites in the lower 48 that could help me buy a trekking pole from backcountryedge? They don't offer international shipping and I have searched everywhere in Australia but no one sells them
. If you're a regular member who might be interested to help please PM me 
.
Edited on Nov 14, 2014 at 07:04 AM · View previous versions
Gary Clennan wrote
I typically don't mess around too much with the Black slider except when I process B&Ws. I find it can create a very harsh type of output. If anything, I usually decrease the black slider - especially in harsh sunlight and contrasty scenes.In fact, it's almost impossible to get solid blacks in some shots with the contrast slider alone, without ruining the shot that is.
Hi Edward, have you tried playing around with the curves tool? You can get solid blacks quite easily with this. The black slider works by affecting the dark region, so if you pull it back the dark region will become darker. The curves however can work the opposite way, instead of affecting the entire "dark" region you can manipulate it so that only the darkest areas of the picture is effected. This way you have much better control of the areas you want to manipulate and you won't get as much spill as you would using the black slider. All you have to do is click on the bottom left point, and drag it to the right without moving up or down. If you move up you will lower the black intensity but if you stay in a straight line you will maintain black at 0. I hope that makes sense, good luck!
By the way I apologize for hijacking this thread but are there any forumites in the lower 48 that could help me buy a trekking pole from backcountryedge? They don't offer international shipping and I have searched everywhere in Australia but no one sells them
. If you're a regular member who might be interested to help please PM me .Edited on Nov 14, 2014 at 07:04 AM · View previous versions
Nov 14, 2014 at 06:40 AM
p.1025 #3Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
jfreak wrote:
Edwardkaraa, I too would be very happy if I could see the IQ difference between the two. I think that would mitigate every concern.
I have been reading on 35 fle and it's comparisons to others. I have 35summicron asph. Can't say I saw the full potential of this on a7. Love 50 lux, that glow I can see on a7 too I feel. Does 35fle have this glow too. I am usually shooting in low light indoors so mostly my shots are wide open or close.
And, although a7 is mirror less too but I have seen that with m8,sometimes...Show more →
You'll love the 35 FLE. If you like to shoot close up you'll be pleased to know that it has excellent contrast from close distance compared to its pre FLE brother. If by glow you mean pop then yes the 35 FLE will have lots of that characteristic. Enjoy perhaps the best 35 on the market
Edwardkaraa, I too would be very happy if I could see the IQ difference between the two. I think that would mitigate every concern.
I have been reading on 35 fle and it's comparisons to others. I have 35summicron asph. Can't say I saw the full potential of this on a7. Love 50 lux, that glow I can see on a7 too I feel. Does 35fle have this glow too. I am usually shooting in low light indoors so mostly my shots are wide open or close.
And, although a7 is mirror less too but I have seen that with m8,sometimes...Show more →
You'll love the 35 FLE. If you like to shoot close up you'll be pleased to know that it has excellent contrast from close distance compared to its pre FLE brother. If by glow you mean pop then yes the 35 FLE will have lots of that characteristic. Enjoy perhaps the best 35 on the market
Nov 14, 2014 at 06:56 AM
p.1025 #4Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
rirakuma wrote:
Very interesting points Gary, and this shows the different "tastes" of different users. I have always liked solid blacks in my photos since slide film days, and the M9 didn't need much help to emulate that. The M(240) however needs a lot of persuasion
In fact, it's almost impossible to get solid blacks in some shots with the contrast slider alone, without ruining the shot that is.Hi Edward, have you tried playing around with the curves tool? You can get solid blacks quite easily with this. The black slider works by affecting the dark region, so if you pull it back the dark region will become darker. The curves however can work the opposite way, instead of affecting the entire "dark" region you can manipulate it so that only the darkest areas of the picture is effected. This way you have much better control of the areas you want to manipulate and you won't get as much spill as you would using the black slider. All...Show more →
Thank you very much for reminding me of curves, rirakuma. I haven't used them for ages. It is just too convenient to adjust a couple of sliders. Curves definitely give the best control.
edwardkaraa wrote
Gary Clennan wrote
I typically don't mess around too much with the Black slider except when I process B&Ws. I find it can create a very harsh type of output. If anything, I usually decrease the black slider - especially in harsh sunlight and contrasty scenes.In fact, it's almost impossible to get solid blacks in some shots with the contrast slider alone, without ruining the shot that is.
Thank you very much for reminding me of curves, rirakuma. I haven't used them for ages. It is just too convenient to adjust a couple of sliders. Curves definitely give the best control.
Nov 14, 2014 at 07:16 AM
p.1025 #5Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
Lovely surprise to find huge Garry Winogrand prints on display, scattered across different stations in Paris!
EDIT: I've just discovered there was gallery exhibition in Paris somewhere
That is genuinely on my bucket list, I assumed it would likely involve a trip across the pond at some point. I cannot believe I missed it! Luckily it runs until Feb by the looks of it, so hopefully we can pop back across next year... (smashing head on keyboard moment)
EDIT: I've just discovered there was gallery exhibition in Paris somewhere
That is genuinely on my bucket list, I assumed it would likely involve a trip across the pond at some point. I cannot believe I missed it! Luckily it runs until Feb by the looks of it, so hopefully we can pop back across next year... (smashing head on keyboard moment)Nov 14, 2014 at 08:16 AM
p.1025 #6Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
jfreak wrote:
Ron, very nice NYC back in August series. I just can't help ask you about the look on couple of people in the shot. It seems the expression is of concern on probably you taking a picture of them. Is that what it is? I am asking because I would like to take this kinda shots but I just cant dare to take it coz I feel someone will come up to me and ask "hey what are you doing?" and in present times it seems everyone is kinda suspicious. I am just curious how you get the confidence to...Show more →
If want to shoot street but are uncomfortable with the reception, one way is to shoot "happenings" any sort of street festival, parade, or protest. Farmers markets can be great. In these circumstances, most people are not surprised to see someone snapping. Edward's points are very good, know what you are about, be ready for the second shot, and move on. Would love to hear Allan on this subject.
As to "hiding" your shooting, I disagree with most people on this one. The nicest way to shoot a person on the street is if they never know you did, IMHO. But at 35 it's not easy. 50, on the other, this can often be done. One trick I'm sure you may have considered is to shoot something else nearby, a door, storefront, etc. with your subject just out of frame. Once they are used to your presence a shot in their direction may not be so noticable. Or, become obsessed with some object in the flow of people, e.g. a fire hydrant, which you may shoot at high speed with pedestrians a blur, then go f/11 and "get them"
I like candid photography, but to me "the look" when they see you shooting them and hate it usually ruins the shot, as it's very distinct from all the normal scowls we see. Sometimes it's interesting, but often you forget everything else about the shot when viewing it. It depends on the eyes, usually, straight into the camera is the worst. I've see whole threads with this theme and sets from street shooters.
As to your M240, you can always replace with the much cheaper M9, which many still prefer. Huge debate over at SteveHuff on this subject right now. We had a great discussion here also, and I learned alot. Still no lust for 240 from me, but I'm crazy about my M9.
The A7 is inferior on the street I think, but certainly usable. It's a more intrusive camera in my experience. The M9, once you are used to it, loves to be shot fast. It feels natural to shoot it fast. The A7 can be shoot with some speed but it's way way harder for me, despite alot of practice.
Let's face it, street shooting can be rude. Just like changing lanes into a tight gap. No shortage of folks who will do that, nearly every one at some point, and it's not only rude but dangerous! So in the overall scheme of human rudeness street shooting is pretty benign. Afterall these people are being shot constantly by security cameras, google vans, satellites, and G knows what else!
Here's what I like:
L1024327 by unoh7, on Flickr
It's close, but there's no photographer A true candid.
Edited on Nov 14, 2014 at 09:25 AM · View previous versions
Ron, very nice NYC back in August series. I just can't help ask you about the look on couple of people in the shot. It seems the expression is of concern on probably you taking a picture of them. Is that what it is? I am asking because I would like to take this kinda shots but I just cant dare to take it coz I feel someone will come up to me and ask "hey what are you doing?" and in present times it seems everyone is kinda suspicious. I am just curious how you get the confidence to...Show more →
If want to shoot street but are uncomfortable with the reception, one way is to shoot "happenings" any sort of street festival, parade, or protest. Farmers markets can be great. In these circumstances, most people are not surprised to see someone snapping. Edward's points are very good, know what you are about, be ready for the second shot, and move on. Would love to hear Allan on this subject.
As to "hiding" your shooting, I disagree with most people on this one. The nicest way to shoot a person on the street is if they never know you did, IMHO. But at 35 it's not easy. 50, on the other, this can often be done. One trick I'm sure you may have considered is to shoot something else nearby, a door, storefront, etc. with your subject just out of frame. Once they are used to your presence a shot in their direction may not be so noticable. Or, become obsessed with some object in the flow of people, e.g. a fire hydrant, which you may shoot at high speed with pedestrians a blur, then go f/11 and "get them"
I like candid photography, but to me "the look" when they see you shooting them and hate it usually ruins the shot, as it's very distinct from all the normal scowls we see. Sometimes it's interesting, but often you forget everything else about the shot when viewing it. It depends on the eyes, usually, straight into the camera is the worst. I've see whole threads with this theme and sets from street shooters.
As to your M240, you can always replace with the much cheaper M9, which many still prefer. Huge debate over at SteveHuff on this subject right now. We had a great discussion here also, and I learned alot. Still no lust for 240 from me, but I'm crazy about my M9.
The A7 is inferior on the street I think, but certainly usable. It's a more intrusive camera in my experience. The M9, once you are used to it, loves to be shot fast. It feels natural to shoot it fast. The A7 can be shoot with some speed but it's way way harder for me, despite alot of practice.
Let's face it, street shooting can be rude. Just like changing lanes into a tight gap.
No shortage of folks who will do that, nearly every one at some point, and it's not only rude but dangerous! So in the overall scheme of human rudeness street shooting is pretty benign. Afterall these people are being shot constantly by security cameras, google vans, satellites, and G knows what else!Here's what I like:
L1024327 by unoh7, on Flickr
It's close, but there's no photographer
A true candid.Edited on Nov 14, 2014 at 09:25 AM · View previous versions
Nov 14, 2014 at 09:05 AM
p.1025 #7Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
edwardkaraa wrote:
The secret is not to care what the other people think.
You need to have thick skin if you want to shoot street.
You should not linger in the same place.
These are great tips! You should also not fart in the company of strangers, especially in confined spaces, but this is similar to the third point above.
I'd never call myself a street photographer but the above remarks are pretty much what I do whenever I pick up a camera.
Happy shooting!
The secret is not to care what the other people think.
You need to have thick skin if you want to shoot street.
You should not linger in the same place.
These are great tips! You should also not fart in the company of strangers, especially in confined spaces, but this is similar to the third point above.
I'd never call myself a street photographer but the above remarks are pretty much what I do whenever I pick up a camera.
Happy shooting!
Nov 14, 2014 at 09:18 AM
p.1025 #8Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
uhoh7, I so enjoyed reading you response. Very well said. Appreciated. I also wanted to buy M9, more for the ccd thing everyone talks and the look I see on my M8 pictures which is different from cmos a7. May be there is more to it but ccd in M9 has some role here. And all the reading over net, Ashwin's article on stevehuff too.
I did not want to buy m9 for 3k and have no warranty on it knowing how it can go wrong or RF misaligned etc, and all the short coming which I don't have to mention. I am very comfortable with my M8U bought used too and no warranty coz I have it and it has stood the test for me. So I decided M with 2yr warranty. As you said, If I dont like the IQ and missed the M8U type picture, I will get M9 if I liked everything Leica in M.
Your point on candid is also very well taken. This is indeed very different than person looking in to your eye. I feel the story is just lost.
I did not want to buy m9 for 3k and have no warranty on it knowing how it can go wrong or RF misaligned etc, and all the short coming which I don't have to mention. I am very comfortable with my M8U bought used too and no warranty coz I have it and it has stood the test for me. So I decided M with 2yr warranty. As you said, If I dont like the IQ and missed the M8U type picture, I will get M9 if I liked everything Leica in M.
Your point on candid is also very well taken. This is indeed very different than person looking in to your eye. I feel the story is just lost.
Nov 14, 2014 at 10:34 AM
p.1025 #9Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
Interesting shooting points Charlie.
An interesting comment on street photography:
http://valerian.tumblr.com/post/102401302027/and-we-have-seen-far-too-many-examples-of
"...We have also seen a more aggressive brand of in your face work in the style of Bruce Gilden, which is a punishing assault on innocent people all for the look of shock on their faces.”
Some sort of art exhibit on The High Line... It was quite a warm day and I think many thought it was a real drink cooler with product to buy. It wasn't...
M240 & 28 Cron.
Edward - I think the black slider will give you what you want. It's like moving the black point with the levels tool in PS. I'll use it sometimes, but usually in low contrast scenes where I want to approach black. For the most part, with my initial PP, I tend towards a 'balanced' range of processing for a baseline look and that will end up in the archive. That way if I ever revisit the image and don't have access to the DNG, it will still be workable. I guess this comes from my prepress days and the frustration of being sent many images with aggressive treatments that didn't lend themselves towards reprocessing for reproduction. But for a specific mood or end use, then of course any kind of more aggressive treatment is fine, and crushed blacks will certainly get you towards the film look.
An interesting comment on street photography:
http://valerian.tumblr.com/post/102401302027/and-we-have-seen-far-too-many-examples-of
"...We have also seen a more aggressive brand of in your face work in the style of Bruce Gilden, which is a punishing assault on innocent people all for the look of shock on their faces.”
Some sort of art exhibit on The High Line... It was quite a warm day and I think many thought it was a real drink cooler with product to buy. It wasn't...
M240 & 28 Cron.
Edward - I think the black slider will give you what you want. It's like moving the black point with the levels tool in PS. I'll use it sometimes, but usually in low contrast scenes where I want to approach black. For the most part, with my initial PP, I tend towards a 'balanced' range of processing for a baseline look and that will end up in the archive. That way if I ever revisit the image and don't have access to the DNG, it will still be workable. I guess this comes from my prepress days and the frustration of being sent many images with aggressive treatments that didn't lend themselves towards reprocessing for reproduction. But for a specific mood or end use, then of course any kind of more aggressive treatment is fine, and crushed blacks will certainly get you towards the film look.
Nov 14, 2014 at 11:00 AM
p.1025 #10Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
Regarding M9 vs. M240... the endless debate.
IMO, choosing one over the other for image quality is splitting hairs. One can be processed to look like the other, if needed, though the wider dynamic range of the M240 is a benefit in certain situations (and the root cause, IMO, for its considerably different SOOC look compared to the M9).
The M9 is a more focused camera - it's strictly an optical rangefinder style of shooting. No live view, no EVF. No easily controlled manner by which to use non rangefinder coupled lenses. The M240 to me is more multifunctional - along the lines of an a7 in terms of lens adaptability (and may be a reason some consider it a watering down of the Leica rangefinder experience). You can use R mount, or practically anything else other than those that require electronic control interfaces. It's a reason why, for me, the a7 series is difficult to justify and much more of a compromise. I can use the excellent M system lenses natively on it (which is a high priority for me) without edge smearing and also adapt other lenses, if I wanted to, the primary reason I'd get an a7 series camera, since I'm happy with my Canon gear for any serious AF/action type work.
IMO, the M240 also offers a range of UI and usage refinements over the M9, but the relevance of these points is subjective. Covering events, the responsiveness improvements of the M240 make it a vastly different camera in use, and is important for me. Using the M9 alongside the 240 and a 1DX, it feels like shooting with molasses. Yet, recently when the M240 was at Leica for a quick rangefinder calibration (due to my momentarily careless misuse of it - not to imply there is a general RF calibration problem with it), I used the M9 for a day on the streets of NYC and enjoyed it.
On its own, the M9 is definitely enjoyable, and that is how I guess most use it. For ~$3000, you get a lot of camera, and compared to the M240, save over $4000, which will go a long way towards any out of pocket repair costs.
IMO, choosing one over the other for image quality is splitting hairs. One can be processed to look like the other, if needed, though the wider dynamic range of the M240 is a benefit in certain situations (and the root cause, IMO, for its considerably different SOOC look compared to the M9).
The M9 is a more focused camera - it's strictly an optical rangefinder style of shooting. No live view, no EVF. No easily controlled manner by which to use non rangefinder coupled lenses. The M240 to me is more multifunctional - along the lines of an a7 in terms of lens adaptability (and may be a reason some consider it a watering down of the Leica rangefinder experience). You can use R mount, or practically anything else other than those that require electronic control interfaces. It's a reason why, for me, the a7 series is difficult to justify and much more of a compromise. I can use the excellent M system lenses natively on it (which is a high priority for me) without edge smearing and also adapt other lenses, if I wanted to, the primary reason I'd get an a7 series camera, since I'm happy with my Canon gear for any serious AF/action type work.
IMO, the M240 also offers a range of UI and usage refinements over the M9, but the relevance of these points is subjective. Covering events, the responsiveness improvements of the M240 make it a vastly different camera in use, and is important for me. Using the M9 alongside the 240 and a 1DX, it feels like shooting with molasses. Yet, recently when the M240 was at Leica for a quick rangefinder calibration (due to my momentarily careless misuse of it - not to imply there is a general RF calibration problem with it), I used the M9 for a day on the streets of NYC and enjoyed it.
On its own, the M9 is definitely enjoyable, and that is how I guess most use it. For ~$3000, you get a lot of camera, and compared to the M240, save over $4000, which will go a long way towards any out of pocket repair costs.
Nov 14, 2014 at 11:19 AM
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p.1025 #11Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
edwardkaraa wrote:
Very interesting points Gary, and this shows the different "tastes" of different users. I have always liked solid blacks in my photos since slide film days, and the M9 didn't need much help to emulate that. The M(240) however needs a lot of persuasion
In fact, it's almost impossible to get solid blacks in some shots with the contrast slider alone, without ruining the shot that is.Hi Edward, have you tried playing around with the curves tool? You can get solid blacks quite easily with this. The black slider works by affecting the dark region, so if you pull it back the dark region will become darker. The curves however can work the opposite way, instead of affecting the entire "dark" region you can manipulate it so that only the darkest areas of the picture is effected. This way you have much better control of the areas you want to manipulate and you won't get as much spill as you would using the black slider. All you have to do is click on the bottom left point, and drag it to the right without moving up or down. If you move up you will lower the black intensity but if you stay in a straight line you will maintain black at 0. I hope that makes sense, good luck!
By the way I apologize for hijacking this thread but are there any forumites in the lower 48 that could help me buy a trekking pole from backcountryedge? They don't offer international shipping and I have searched everywhere in Australia but no one sells them. If you're a regular member who might be interested to help please PM me .Thank you very much for reminding me of curves, rirakuma. I haven't used them for ages. It is just too convenient to adjust a couple of sliders. Curves definitely give the best control.
I'm a Curve man too when it comes to setting the black and white point, I used to use the sliders before but now I prefer the Curve tool since I often use that anyway for increasing contrast with an S-curve so it feels easier to do it all at once in one tool.
rirakuma wrote
edwardkaraa wrote
Gary Clennan wrote
I typically don't mess around too much with the Black slider except when I process B&Ws. I find it can create a very harsh type of output. If anything, I usually decrease the black slider - especially in harsh sunlight and contrasty scenes.In fact, it's almost impossible to get solid blacks in some shots with the contrast slider alone, without ruining the shot that is.
By the way I apologize for hijacking this thread but are there any forumites in the lower 48 that could help me buy a trekking pole from backcountryedge? They don't offer international shipping and I have searched everywhere in Australia but no one sells them
. If you're a regular member who might be interested to help please PM me .I'm a Curve man too when it comes to setting the black and white point, I used to use the sliders before but now I prefer the Curve tool since I often use that anyway for increasing contrast with an S-curve so it feels easier to do it all at once in one tool.
Nov 14, 2014 at 11:58 AM
p.1025 #12Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
rscheffler wrote:
Edward - I think the black slider will give you what you want. It's like moving the black point with the levels tool in PS. I'll use it sometimes, but usually in low contrast scenes where I want to approach black. For the most part, with my initial PP, I tend towards a 'balanced' range of processing for a baseline look and that will end up in the archive. That way if I ever revisit the image and don't have access to the DNG, it will still be workable. I guess this comes from my prepress days and the frustration...Show more →
Thank you Ron. You make an interesting point about whether the file is for final display or an archival file.
Edward - I think the black slider will give you what you want. It's like moving the black point with the levels tool in PS. I'll use it sometimes, but usually in low contrast scenes where I want to approach black. For the most part, with my initial PP, I tend towards a 'balanced' range of processing for a baseline look and that will end up in the archive. That way if I ever revisit the image and don't have access to the DNG, it will still be workable. I guess this comes from my prepress days and the frustration...Show more →
Thank you Ron. You make an interesting point about whether the file is for final display or an archival file.
Nov 14, 2014 at 11:58 AM
p.1025 #13Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
For $7k, I would have definitely thought more seriously M9 first but I saw the offer of mint M240 for 5200 from popflash which leica seller offering 2 yr leica warranty and thought this is better option. Unless I missing a catch here in the warranty. I think popflash is reputed dealer.
Edited on Nov 14, 2014 at 12:11 PM · View previous versions
Edited on Nov 14, 2014 at 12:11 PM · View previous versions
Nov 14, 2014 at 12:01 PM
p.1025 #14Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
joakim wrote:
Very interesting points Gary, and this shows the different "tastes" of different users. I have always liked solid blacks in my photos since slide film days, and the M9 didn't need much help to emulate that. The M(240) however needs a lot of persuasion
In fact, it's almost impossible to get solid blacks in some shots with the contrast slider alone, without ruining the shot that is.Hi Edward, have you tried playing around with the curves tool? You can get solid blacks quite easily with this. The black slider works by affecting the dark region, so if you pull it back the dark region will become darker. The curves however can work the opposite way, instead of affecting the entire "dark" region you can manipulate it so that only the darkest areas of the picture is effected. This way you have much better control of the areas you want to manipulate and you won't get as much spill as you would using the black slider. All you have to do is click on the bottom left point, and drag it to the right without moving up or down. If you move up you will lower the black intensity but if you stay in a straight line you will maintain black at 0. I hope that makes sense, good luck!
By the way I apologize for hijacking this thread but are there any forumites in the lower 48 that could help me buy a trekking pole from backcountryedge? They don't offer international shipping and I have searched everywhere in Australia but no one sells them. If you're a regular member who might be interested to help please PM me .Thank you very much for reminding me of curves, rirakuma. I haven't used them for ages. It is just too convenient to adjust a couple of sliders. Curves definitely give the best control.I'm a Curve man too when it comes to setting the black and white point, I used to use the sliders before but now I prefer the Curve tool since I often use that anyway for increasing contrast with an S-curve so it feels easier to do it all at once in one tool.
Understood Joakim. My only gripe with curves is that I tend to overdo it. With sliders it's easy to set limits like never going beyond -40 with the blacks or over +50 with the contrast. But definitely curves are the best tool if one knows what he's doing
edwardkaraa wrote
rirakuma wrote
edwardkaraa wrote
Gary Clennan wrote
I typically don't mess around too much with the Black slider except when I process B&Ws. I find it can create a very harsh type of output. If anything, I usually decrease the black slider - especially in harsh sunlight and contrasty scenes.In fact, it's almost impossible to get solid blacks in some shots with the contrast slider alone, without ruining the shot that is.
By the way I apologize for hijacking this thread but are there any forumites in the lower 48 that could help me buy a trekking pole from backcountryedge? They don't offer international shipping and I have searched everywhere in Australia but no one sells them
. If you're a regular member who might be interested to help please PM me .Understood Joakim. My only gripe with curves is that I tend to overdo it. With sliders it's easy to set limits like never going beyond -40 with the blacks or over +50 with the contrast. But definitely curves are the best tool if one knows what he's doing
Nov 14, 2014 at 12:01 PM
p.1025 #15Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
jfreak wrote:
For $7k, I would have definitely thought more seriously M9 first but I saw the offer of mint M240 from popflash which leica seller offering 2 yr leica warranty and thought this is better option. Unless I missing a catch here in the warranty. I think popflash is reputed dealer.
This is the kind of warranty that comes with Leica refurbished items. Sounds good.
For $7k, I would have definitely thought more seriously M9 first but I saw the offer of mint M240 from popflash which leica seller offering 2 yr leica warranty and thought this is better option. Unless I missing a catch here in the warranty. I think popflash is reputed dealer.
This is the kind of warranty that comes with Leica refurbished items. Sounds good.
Nov 14, 2014 at 12:03 PM
p.1025 #16Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
edwardkaraa wrote:
This is the kind of warranty that comes with Leica refurbished items. Sounds good.
How different is the warranty on new leica camera from refurbished?
jfreak wrote
For $7k, I would have definitely thought more seriously M9 first but I saw the offer of mint M240 from popflash which leica seller offering 2 yr leica warranty and thought this is better option. Unless I missing a catch here in the warranty. I think popflash is reputed dealer.How different is the warranty on new leica camera from refurbished?
Nov 14, 2014 at 12:12 PM
p.1025 #17Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
Ghost selfie with M9 and 50 Summilux
Nov 14, 2014 at 12:20 PM
p.1025 #18Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
jfreak wrote:
This is the kind of warranty that comes with Leica refurbished items. Sounds good.How different is the warranty on new leica camera from refurbished?
Exactly the same
edwardkaraa wrote
jfreak wrote
For $7k, I would have definitely thought more seriously M9 first but I saw the offer of mint M240 from popflash which leica seller offering 2 yr leica warranty and thought this is better option. Unless I missing a catch here in the warranty. I think popflash is reputed dealer.Exactly the same
Nov 14, 2014 at 12:25 PM
p.1025 #19Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
Kaiser Dom, Speyer"
L1021023.jpg by W.Utsch, on Flickr
The aperture, estimated by the cam, is not the right one. It was more 2.0...
Nov 14, 2014 at 12:41 PM
p.1025 #20Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
jfreak wrote:
This is the kind of warranty that comes with Leica refurbished items. Sounds good.How different is the warranty on new leica camera from refurbished?
I think you got a good deal, and both Ron and Edward show the 240 can really look great, Ashwin should have taken some lessons,
My M9 was just back from Leica NJ with brand new sensor, when I bought it. So I was not too afraid, and turns out it is a tough friggin camera. I drag it everywhere from mountaintop to the irrigation ditch down the street, with little protection besides the luigi.
I only really mention the M9 for you because it sounded like you were having second thoughts about the money, which is understandable.
To those who think M are overpriced: get a grip. Price a motorcycle. We are talking about arguably the finest digital cameras ever made for still work. The most fun to use and the best results. No, they don't do tricks for you in terms of AF and all that other stuff. I never used those options anyway.
Many attributes are priceless: the public loves to look at them, I get comments on mine all the time. Never on the A7. I love to look at it too
The lens set is sick, far and away the best lens options in the world. You already know the shooting experience from M8, I did not expect to love it and at first I felt it was arcane to say the least. I only bought the M9 for image quality nothing else. Nine months later I love to shoot it and the A7 feels like a gimmicky window on reality filtered by tiny TVs. I think a bunch of guys give up on the Ms before they get good. Too bad for them
Can't wait to see some shots from you
L1024867 by unoh7, 28cron
L1024865 by unoh7, 28cron
Winter Comes by unoh7, 135/3.4 APO
edwardkaraa wrote
jfreak wrote
For $7k, I would have definitely thought more seriously M9 first but I saw the offer of mint M240 from popflash which leica seller offering 2 yr leica warranty and thought this is better option. Unless I missing a catch here in the warranty. I think popflash is reputed dealer.I think you got a good deal, and both Ron and Edward show the 240 can really look great, Ashwin should have taken some lessons,
My M9 was just back from Leica NJ with brand new sensor, when I bought it. So I was not too afraid, and turns out it is a tough friggin camera. I drag it everywhere from mountaintop to the irrigation ditch down the street, with little protection besides the luigi.
I only really mention the M9 for you because it sounded like you were having second thoughts about the money, which is understandable.
To those who think M are overpriced: get a grip. Price a motorcycle. We are talking about arguably the finest digital cameras ever made for still work. The most fun to use and the best results. No, they don't do tricks for you in terms of AF and all that other stuff. I never used those options anyway.
Many attributes are priceless: the public loves to look at them, I get comments on mine all the time. Never on the A7. I love to look at it too
The lens set is sick, far and away the best lens options in the world. You already know the shooting experience from M8, I did not expect to love it and at first I felt it was arcane to say the least. I only bought the M9 for image quality nothing else. Nine months later I love to shoot it and the A7 feels like a gimmicky window on reality filtered by tiny TVs. I think a bunch of guys give up on the Ms before they get good. Too bad for them Can't wait to see some shots from you
L1024867 by unoh7, 28cron
L1024865 by unoh7, 28cron
Winter Comes by unoh7, 135/3.4 APO
Nov 14, 2014 at 01:17 PM