Kacey wrote:
Good to know..... My ABR's flash tube is recessed only half way into built in sub-reflector, so it will get's full spread with the reflector removed. I took one of the tubes out and reseated just to make sure it was all the way in. In years of having the ring flash I've never used it with a umbrella. This could be a good reason to use it a little more.
Because the sub reflector is half way surrounding the the tube, 1/2 the energy will be focused more toward the center of the PLM. Not a big deal and quite workable. It will just make the center of the catchlights brighter than the perimeter. Not a bad effect all in all.
I said "IF you hate it" I didn't say you did hate it. The "If" part applies collectively to anyone who might hate it and did not say, as you suggest, "CSAE hates it" Also, I didn't say anything positive or negative about where you live. On the other hand you started your post with the very clear and unambiguous "YOU HAVE ISSUES" Not a good way to start a positive conversation. Hey, let he has no issues cast the first stones. I haven't met such a person yet. If I need a shrink I'll go pay one
c2thew wrote:
"And, since you asked, here's a photo of the off-kilter thumbscrew screwed most of the way into the collar"
I think he was asking about looking into the column to see if the mount is off center or if it had slipped during the construction process.
No, I think I got it right. Paul wrote:
"How about a picture with the screw threaded into the slider so we can be sure the screw is not just sitting loose on the tip of the thread for the picture."
He wanted to see the screw advanced further into the threaded hole to make certain it wasn't hanging off the edge for dramatic effect.
Paul Buff wrote:
Tetrode. I really think you should call into customer service or tech help, or go on our tech forum at http://www.paulcbuff-techforum.com/
I can only do so much here. I's sure like to see that crooked screw also . . . as I said, I just can't see how it could happen but am not willing to argue with your picture. I'm sure customer service will be happy to send you a replacement and call tag so we can see this anomaly...
I just got off the phone with Customer Service and they will indeed be sending me a replacement 51" white PLM V2. If the hole in the sliding collar is, as you say, cast rather than drilled, I would imagine the probability is pretty high that the replacement will also come with a tilted screw. We'll see.
Now here's a piece of silliness: In addition to the PLM, I am also being sent a replacement cage. I explained that the cage is perfect and that a replacement isn't needed. It was then explained to me that even though the umbrella and cage are separate items shipped in separate boxes, for inventory purposes they are considered a set and must be shipped together. I told the CSR that I would not be opening the replacement cage box and would only be slapping a return label on it and sending it right back to Nashville along with the PLM. PCB will have incurred round trip shipping costs (and slightly inconvenienced the customer) for absolutely no good reason. No matter; the cage must be shipped. Seems incredibly inefficient to me.
One other thing: I inquired if the PLM umbrellas would be offered as stand-alone items or only bundled with a cage. Again, I was told they are sold as a set and you can only get the PLM with a cage (however, you CAN buy a cage without a PLM). Well, if I own a single AB light and want a full set of PLMs, I would wind up with six umbrellas and five unneeded cages! Considering the cages sell for $19.95 each, it would seem you should be able to offer just the umbrellas at a substantially reduced price if the cages were sold as an optional add-on. And, yes, I realize the PLMs are relatively inexpensive as they are but, again, it's a question of waste and unneeded expense.
Mardel wrote:
Anybody using the white 86" PLM with black spill kill? Any examples of the Japanese Lantern lighting config with say a group of people indoors.
I've been curious about this as well. Haven't seen anyone buy the japanese lantern version and post photos up...only pics using it as a big shoot through umbrella which it does well as.
p.s., FWIW, I read the thumbscrew thing as a suggestion as well. You see that comment all the time when people review computer cases and I can see how it might be useful for improving setup time when on location. One quick question for Paul on that: what are the screw thread/length specs for those screws so we can find thumbscrews that fit? If it's the same as the screws used for computer cases, it'll be trivial to find replacements...
A 5/16" thumbscrew, 3/4" to 1" will work. I'm not sure if it's 5/16-18 or 5/16-24 . . . I believe it's 5/16-18.
As for the Japanese Lantern effect, the only thing you really gain over straight shoot though, beyond a bit more light output, is spill control that might otherwise cause lens flare.
But chances are in most shots the lens is going to see part of the front of the umbrella anyhow.
Keep in mind, the bigger the light sources, the lower the spot intensity of the light, so a big PLM isn't going be be a huge source of lens flare like the lens seeing a small direct light source would be. Think in terms of outoor natural light . . . the sky is a huge, low spot intensity source and doesn't cause much if any flare. But let the lens see the tiny, bright sun and flare is certain.
Since I work at home I can't really keep up with the daily scheduling of what's coming in when and how many are on order. I suggest a phone call to our customer service if possible. There are many component pieces to the PLM line and they are coming in at an increasing pace, so I don't think it's going to take too long to fill all orders.
Paul Buff wrote:
A 5/16" thumbscrew, 3/4" to 1" will work. I'm not sure if it's 5/16-18 or 5/16-24 . . . I believe it's 5/16-18.
...
It's 5/16-24. That's actually the size of the bolt that holds the positioning shaft to the cage. The thumbscrew on the sliding collar is, of course, much smaller and the setscrew at the tip of the PLM is smaller still. I'll check their thread sizes tomorrow.
Paul Buff wrote:
The set screw and the adjustment knob are 8-32. Thanks for correcting the 5/16 - 24 AKA NF. I was referring to the cage screw.
Yes, the thumbscrew and setscrew are indeed both 8-32. I do think replacing the setscrew with a second thumbscrew would improve usability and obviate the need for a 2mm Allen key:
Paul, will you be able provide additional thumbscrews once you have spare parts on hand?
Since you seem to have a set at hand, can you confirm for me if its possible to lock in the cage assembly similar to how the 7mm shaft is supposed to be lockable through the back ?
My thinking is that its easier to just align and screw in the cage to the rod, then have to align the rod each time.
One solution for the cage screw if it long enough is to place it though the cage and fasten a thin 5/16-24 Jamb Nut on the back side to permanently hold it in place. Then you could just screw and unscrew the hole cage off the positioning shaft from then on. No screwdriver..... No thumbscrew to get lost.... Done deal
Kacey wrote:
One solution for the cage screw if it long enough is to place it though the cage and fasten a thin 5/16-24 Jamb Nut on the back side to permanently hold it in place. Then you could just screw and unscrew the hole cage off the positioning shaft from then on. No screwdriver..... No thumbscrew to get lost.... Done deal
Good idea, Jerry. I haven't had any luck prowling local hardware stores for 5/16-24 nuts. 5/16-18 are available everywhere. One complication is that it's fairly difficult to tighten the shaft sufficiently onto the bolt using only your hands. The positioning shaft has a small diameter and is difficult to grab and torque down onto the bolt. Of course, this issue remains whether the bolt is captive in the cage or turned with a screwdriver. If I can find a 5/16-24 nut, I'll try your suggestion.
EDIT: Now that I think about it, it was the effort required to compress the two beefy supplied lock washers that made installation of the positioning shaft difficult. With your approach, the lock washers would be permanently in place between the bolt head and the jam nut. That being the case, installation and removal of the positioning shaft should be a breeze. I think this is definitely the way to go.
Looks like McMaster Carr has them in 100 packs for as low as $1.62 which would work if Paul decided to add them to the kit. (Link)
Not sure if Home Depot or Lowes would have them in stock or not.
Since you seem to have a set at hand, can you confirm for me if its possible to lock in the cage assembly similar to how the 7mm shaft is supposed to be lockable through the back ?
My thinking is that its easier to just align and screw in the cage to the rod, then have to align the rod each time.
I'd be happy to answer your question if I better understood what it is you're asking. Using the setscrew at the PLM's tip to secure the positioning shaft allows it to remain in place permanently. At least that's the theory. As I mentioned in a previous post, there is a hole drilled in the positioning adapter that aligns with the setscrew at the PLM's tip. It's easy to advance the setscrew far enough that it falls free inside the positioning shaft's tube (another reason why a thumbscrew would be preferable to a setscrew).
Let's assume the positioning shaft has been properly secured by the setscrew. The end of the positioning shaft that is facing the inside of the umbrella is threaded. This is where the cage gets screwed on. If you elect to use the bolt supplied with the PLM, you will need a screwdriver to attach the cage. However, if you elect to adopt Jerry K's suggestion (see above) it should be a simple matter to spin the cage onto the positioning shaft by hand. This is probably the easiest way to set up and break down the PLM when the cage is to be used.
I'm trying to maximize my money and options with regards to what combination of PLM's to get. Right now I have two 42" or whatever the last version was. Now that the V2's will be in stock soon I'm trying to maximize my options while making my money extend. For full body shots, a combination of sports action shots and fashion posed shots (sitting, laying down) how more beneficial would the 86" be compared to the 64"? As far as softness goes, how does a white diffuse on a silver compare to a white bounce with black back kill?
I think I've arrived at what is, for me, probably the most practical solution for using the PLM primarily with an Elinchrom or AB cage assembly.
Instead of inserting and attaching the positioning shaft every time the PLM is opened, leave it in place by attaching it with a thumbscrew or wing bolt inserted through the PLM's tip:
With the positioning shaft secured at the PLM's tip, the interior of the umbrella will look like this:
The PLM will open and close more or less like a standard umbrella when configured this way.
To make attachment of the Elinchrom or AB cage assembly quick and tool-free, lock the supplied 5/16-24 bolt to the cage hub using a 5/16-24 nut as suggested by Jerry K:
With the bolt captive, it's a quick and easy process to spin the cage assembly onto the positioning shaft.
