My 120/4 macro arrived yesterday and the Fotodiox adapter arrived last week. First few shots. These are with a 7D and no post processing except to resize them. Was playing with the lens at MFD with some extension tubes last night and can't wait to find some real subjects to shoot with this setup.
Well, I finally got a chance to play with the 150/3.5 that arrived a few days ago...too much rain here for the past three days, so I was 'stuck' to make do with what was available as far as subject matter went. Nothing fancy, just a few test shots of a pair of my well-worn, too-many-miles-on-them, running shoes. These are straight out of camera, no processing other than resize and convert to jpeg. The colors are very rich, and sharpness is very good as well...not bad for $65. On a positive side note, considering what KEH sells the 120/4A macro for, I managed to 'steal' one for $255...should be here in a few days.
Hi,
Just stumbled onto this thread. I am new to digital. I've shot medium format for years.
My friends are telling me to sell my equipment. These adapters have changed my mind.
Besides I still have a freezer full of 120 film.
My digital camera is a T2i/550D with a 100mm macro, 50mm 1.8 and a 15-85 zoom
(I couldn't see spending the money on a full frame right now)
for MF I have:
Bronica SQai (6X6) with the following
PS 50mm f3.5
PS 80mm f2.8
PS 110mm Macro 1:2 f4
PS 150mm f4
S-36 extension tube
Auto bellows
Mamiya 645 Pro TTL
35mm 3.5
80mm 2.8
110mm 2.8
120mm 4 macro
150mm 3.5
Set of extension tubes
There are adapters for both sets of lenses.
Seem like i would have a treasure trove of lenses to choose from.
The idea of being able to use a bellows on the T2i is exciting.
I have a few questions.
What is the difference between a chipped and non chipped adapter?
I assume that you have to use manual or aperture priority metering.
Is the metering stop down, that is you would have to use depth of field preview
or set the lens to manual to get a correct meter reading?
How does one calculate the actual focal length of the MF lens on a 35mm chip?
Assuming that I would then have to multiply by 1.6 to get the FL for the smaller chip.
I also have a Mamiya 7II w 3 lenses- but I don't think they would work as
the 7II is a rangefinder.
Sorry for the long post.
Thanks for any info,
Mark
It is way simpler than it might otherwise seem ... 80mm = 80mm ... so shooting with your 100mm macro or your 120mm macro ... only a 20mm difference despite the two different formats (i.e. no crop factor calculations required)
Shoot aperture pritority ... set aperture, compose, shoot.
Can be a bit dark in viewfinder if stopped down a lot, so you might compose wide open, then stop down & shoot.
Too bad you've seen this, because now you won't be selling any of your M645 glass to me for real cheap
Rangefinder glass ... no-go.
Chipped adapter ... focus confirmation (probably not necessary for a MF shooter) and Exif data recorded as programmed into chip (lens identification)
Funny thing is, I was watching a 150/2.8 as well as the 120/4A macro...decided to pass over the 150 and shoot for the macro. When I checked ebay this morning, the 150/2.8 sold for a measly $122...sometimes you score, sometimes you miss.
Mike Ganz wrote:
Funny thing is, I was watching a 150/2.8 as well as the 120/4A macro...decided to pass over the 150 and shoot for the macro. When I checked ebay this morning, the 150/2.8 sold for a measly $122...sometimes you score, sometimes you miss.
Yeah, I was going to bid on that one and sat here and forgot it. I would have won too.
Mike Ganz wrote:
Funny thing is, I was watching a 150/2.8 as well as the 120/4A macro...decided to pass over the 150 and shoot for the macro. When I checked ebay this morning, the 150/2.8 sold for a measly $122...sometimes you score, sometimes you miss.
Where do these prices come from? I bought my 120/4 for 450$.
If any of you guys spot a mint 80/2.8 N (not L) for 20$-30$ can you please tip me?
Those prices are not typical of Ex or mint lenses. I was watching both of the mentioned lenses. They both had listed "defects" or "issues" that resulted in lower selling prices. Whether or not the mentioned problems have any impact will have to be determined by the buyers.
I'm a bargain hunter many times ... especially since I shoot mostly outdoors with gear being subject to stuff it was never intended for. It makes little sense for me to ever buy mint glass (although Yakim is the benefactor of my pristine M645 35 N that was way TOO NICE for ME to keep), as I have 'damaged' (i.e. character marks / no longer mint) my own gear way more than I care to admit or think about.
Actually, I do a really good job of taking care of my gear over the years ... but STUFF happens, and I get TOTALLY SICK when it happens to my MINT gear ... while only MAJOR BUMMED when it happens to my 'character' gear.
My 150 2.8 A was around $150 ... the front coating had some very minor issues, so it definitely wasn't 'mint' ... but I think I'll keep it
