Well, this is a little better. I'm still disappointed by the 80/1.9N fringing - especially in contrast to my 85/1.4 Samyang (which came on Sat). I'm still shooting it, and I'm sure it will spend plenty of time on the Mirex that Fedex is bringing me next week, plus I do appreciate the close minimum focus distance, especially for portraiture.
That said, this thing that just showed up about an hour ago with the UPS guy (oy, bad case of LAS) is roughly what I was hoping for... and may dissuade me from going for the 200/2.8 APO (especially since there is a 150/2.8 in the mail too):
If you couldn't guess from the images (or the file path for that matter), it's a 145mm/4 Soft Focus. Obviously the second two are a bit heavy handed (and it can get much "worse" with this lens), but this isn't all that different from DC on the Nik 105/2DC when you see the effect on DOF when varying the SA on a fixed distance. Taken a stop or two down, the variable SF can be effectively limited to near/foreground control while retaining sharpness on the subject plane.
I like the handling too; sure, the lens is a little slow for a 77mm thread size, but it feels good in the hand on my 5DII and the pull stop down focus aid is neat (but something to keep in mind when working handheld).
I'm gonna need a 645 and a couple more Pelicans...
Like I said, I got the lens about 30 minutes before shooting those from my desk. It just so happens the subject allows for me to look at fringing, microcontrast, bokeh, and flare (depending on the time of day...). Also, while making this a little less interesting, it does give me a frame of reference across lenses...
alipstadt wrote:
Like I said, I got the lens about 30 minutes before shooting those from my desk. It just so happens the subject allows for me to look at fringing, microcontrast, bokeh, and flare (depending on the time of day...). Also, while making this a little less interesting, it does give me a frame of reference across lenses...
Ah, I didn't mean it in a bad way. I have heaps of cat photo's, a standard test target for me. I'm sure almost everyone else has used their pet for tests, hence the comment about a thread about it. I wasn't making having a go at you.
No worries - I didn't think you were and I didn't take it that way. It's just that one of her favorite spots is sitting on the windowsill. Hell, with a white brick and mortar building parallel to that window and white walls in this room, I don't have go very far to get the basic versions of the basic tests out of the way
Now I look forward to the wackyness of 145mm SF + Mirex. I feel like I should throw in a diopter and a UV/IR filter (though the 5DII sucks for that) just to make it more convoluted.
Edit: I really like this lens. Here's a full size version of the first one (from DNG -> 80% JPG, sRGB)
alipstadt wrote:
Now I look forward to the wackyness of 145mm SF + Mirex. I feel like I should throw in a diopter and a UV/IR filter (though the 5DII sucks for that) just to make it more convoluted.
Edit: I really like this lens. Here's a full size version of the first one (from DNG -> 80% JPG, sRGB)
The rather feeble instructions that come with the Mirex suggest that lenses above 120mm not be used but that's just a guide and there is no physical reason that you can't. I've used the 150 A on the Mirex and you are limited in the movements that you have available to you but it's still usefull. I'd suggest picking up a good 80, maybe the Macro, because it sounds like your 80/1.9 is not quite right and you can get an uber cheap 80 that will be very sharp. I only paid US$69 for my 80/2.8 N and I'm very happy with it.
5D and Mamiya 200APO with Kenko 1.4
Any one know why the stars came out this way? I took a few others and they did not 'stretch' like this.Could it be that this one was taken @f4 and the others were stopped down a bit more?
-Jim http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4117/4884172064_37c2c96f71_b.jpg
No idea, but they certainly do stand out, and you've got some uniqueness there that most others aren't likely to duplicate. I like them, they almost have a Christmas light/star twinkle look to them ... pretty cool.
BTW ... how did go about getting your Tamron & Mamiya to work together on your 5D? (pic would be great)
... I keep getting error messages when I try to use my 1.4x with my 150 2.8 A.
Rusty,
I will experiment again tonight.I agree, i kinda like it.As for the Kenko 1.4 i tape the 3 pins only and then mount it first to the camera and then i mount the adapter to the 1.4x and then the lens on the adapter.No problems.
-Jim
Jim: Look carefully at your aperture blades when closing down to F/4. I would guess the top "wedge" and bottom "wedge" exposed edges of the blades are a little bit longer than the rest of the active aperture blade edges.
Perfect wedge alignment (across the center of the aperture, the optical centerline) increases diffraction star effect, even a slight misalignment causes out-of phase counter-effects, extinction.
If you want a more permanent solution to the error code Canon throws up when it goes hunting for a lens on the end of the chipped extender - use an M645-Nikon +(chipped) Nikon-EoS adapter. Works like a charm.
Thanks to a tip from James C, I use a couple of drops of 'fish glue' (a very old-school, very high-tack, very fast drying water soluble glue made from fish skins that was/is used in woodworking, especially veneer work) on the M645-Nikon adapter to ensure no mechanical slop between the two adapters.
The glue creates an easily removable but solid lock between the adapter + ___. Jim (and I) also uses it between any problematic adapters (rotational slop when focusing) and lenses. If I need to separate the pair for some reason, a good hard sharp twist and the two come apart with no fuss or muss and with just a quick 30 second cleanup with a damp rag. You can get it in (effectively) nail-polish (sized) bottles and one bottle will do for years as only use 2-3 drops on the odd occasion.
I use the same stuff mounting any adapters (F-Eos, Leica when I used them, etc) to lenses when the adapter shows a little slop. The glue can can loosen over time if the lens is mounted/unmounted a lot or is very heavy of has very heavy focus, but then just pop off, clean up, re-apply and good to go. Just 1 drop at 2-3 spots around diameter of lens mount (where adapter will make contact), put adapter on as usual and wait until dry.
Yeah, sounds weird, but was used 'back in the day' and is still used by many woodworkers doing veneer work. It's nice in that it's high-tack, doesn't flow everywhere, has good grip and cleans up (or can be re-tacked) with no residue with H20. No damaging solvents either.
I get mine from Lee Valley (the 15ml bottle) but any good woodworking supply store would have it. One 15ml bottle will last years.
As mentioned earlier, it's actually Jim C's idea. He and I were talking one day over coffee about adapter 'slop' and he mentioned he used it. I tried it works like a charm.
It just so happens the subject allows for me to look at fringing, microcontrast, bokeh, and flare (depending on the time of day...). Also, while making this a little less interesting, it does give me a frame of reference across lenses...
