Josh,
You cannot go wrong with the Rok! Not sure though if you can put another adapter on it, it comes with a Canon mount Any way here is one more cat shot with the Rok @1.4 on 5D I think i nailed the focus on this one a bit better, also this is at its MFD
-Jim
dfresh wrote:
This thread has made me appreciate that I don't see these immeasurable indistinguishable nuances between lenses so that I can be happy with my lowly Rokinon.
you can just get the nikon version and put an eos adapter on it if you want exif and focus confirm. it sounded like samyang was planning to released chipped ones in the not so distant future though.
yeah I was gonna get one of the glue-on chips that you can program if I got the Rokoinon... they've gotten really good with the software on those chips, and even come with a little template to glue it on in the right place.
Jim, disclaimer, I haven't bought one yet, but I've heard great things at the link the flickr page gave... it's about $25 plus whatever they charge for shipping.
I'm still not giving up my super-multi-coated Takumar 85mm f1.8 Talk about mechanics.... it's an absolute dream and pretty nice in every other aspect as well. A bit overpriced, maybe.
JoshGTL wrote:
Jim, disclaimer, I haven't bought one yet, but I've heard great things at the link the flickr page gave... it's about $25 plus whatever they charge for shipping.
I haven't bought one, but I have two chipped adapters with the same technology (from the same seller) and they are the best chips I've used to so far. These chips are definitely different. It's hard to compare these two, but this is how I see it: (as I also own the Tago chips)
1: Unless I'm missing something, the Tago chip cannot program ANY max aperture number. You are still limited to whatever numbers your camera has in its LCD read-out. This means I can't accurately set the max aperture of my 135/2.3 lens. The EMF chip DOES let me do this.
2: The EMF chip has that "shutter lockout" feature, which sort of emulates AF. The EMF chip does not. I'm not a big fan, so this doesn't matter much to me.
As it works on my chips, wWhen used in good light, it's pretty darned cool. I like it. However, in poor light, all it does is lock the shuuter completely. I missed so many shots, I pull the bloody chips off. There is supposed to be a way to (quickly) defeat this function on my chips, but it never worked well for me. From the current online description, it sounds like there may be a new, simpler way to do this, but maybe not. This seems to be the same chip as made in the fall of 2008. Perhaps someone here can comment further on this?
3: Both chips let you fine-tune the in-focus range, which is very important if you choose to actually use the focus-confirm function. (I rarely do, I just want the EXIF info)
When any of you Oly 90mm f2 owners want to sell your lens and get/keep their Rok, please let me know as I'd like to have one. I will be adding a Rok to my arsenal as well to give myself a nice range of portrait length looks to compliment my Helios 40-2.
Thanks for the link Cableaddict, got some decision making to do!
edit: I'd probably go with the tago chip, mostly because it comes with the plastic template to help glue the chip on... but good to know there's options!!
I have the Tago chip, but I haven't put it on yet. I'm wondering what glue to use to make a solid, non-flexible connection that won't wear over time. Suggestions?
JoshGTL wrote:
Jim, disclaimer, I haven't bought one yet, but I've heard great things at the link the flickr page gave... it's about $25 plus whatever they charge for shipping.
Jman13 wrote:
I have the Tago chip, but I haven't put it on yet. I'm wondering what glue to use to make a solid, non-flexible connection that won't wear over time. Suggestions?
Jman13 wrote:
I have the Tago chip, but I haven't put it on yet. I'm wondering what glue to use to make a solid, non-flexible connection that won't wear over time. Suggestions?
Put it on with super glue first then check it on the camera to make sure you have it in the right spot. Be sure to wiggle the lens as much as it wiggles in the mount to test it. Getting it in the right place isn't as easy as it appears and with super glue, you can pop it back off fairly easily if needed. Once you've got it in the right place, use 5 minute epoxy around the edges to really hold it in place. Even with epoxy, it's still possible to get it off, but it's a lot harder and a lot more likely you'll break the chip in the process.
JoshGTL wrote:
Jim, disclaimer, I haven't bought one yet, but I've heard great things at the link the flickr page gave... it's about $25 plus whatever they charge for shipping.
