Ulff, nice color contrast on lime green car & pinkish wall shot
Phil, again great characteristic environment portraits.
alpenglowing wrote:
I've tried ~25 lenses during the last 3 years or so, and I've finally figured out that these two lenses (and these two focal lengths) are the most enjoyable for me to use. ~60 / 9 years - but I was not as successful as you, I think I'm stuck with at least 3 lenses: 25, 50P, 100MP or 25 & 85 depends on what I'm shooting. Trying to set my goal that when I leave home and go shooting to only take 2/3 lenses with me, instead 5-6 lenses.
Bob, you found really big wall to shoot the 1st shot with 35mm, nice shot
Hugo, the first shot is great, even greater if you can remove HDR halo (or halo from local contrast enhancement) around the dark parts of picture
Siddhu, great looking Jeep with 25
kururu, nice lightning again
TSY87, 2nd band picture look great
Carl Zeiss Distagon T* 2/25 @ f/5.6, 1/800s, ISO 100 larger
PS. Can someone help; I shoot some architecture (typically I shoot nature, and try to avoid human made stuff) and the distant cityscape/architecture photos with Planar 85 ZE seem to cause moire with 5DmkII. Has moire been issue for others with Z* and 5DmkII? On which kind of shots?
How I should remove it or am I forced to shoot f/8-11 this kind of subjects so that the diffraction takes care of the moire (and takes the "pop" out from rest of the image...) Screen capture from Apple Aperture (=colors may be weird):
(I had the cursor on left edge of image and the circle thing is showing the are under cursor 100%)
I shoot some architecture (typically I shoot nature, and try to avoid human made stuff) and the distant cityscape/architecture photos with Planar 85 ZE seem to cause moire with 5DmkII. Has moire been issue for others with Z* and 5DmkII? On which kind of shots?
How I should remove it or am I forced to shoot f/8-11 this kind of subjects so that the diffraction takes care of the moire (and takes the "pop" out from rest of the image...)
I have never seen any moire with 5D2 and Z*s. I know about two ways how to remove it:
- LR4 has a new tool that does precisely that. You need to use the process 2012 to get access to it. It is a slider under the brush and it works fine.
- In Photoshop, convert the image to Lab, target a or b channel and apply blur using brush on affected areas.
Beautiful photos everyone.
Sorry I can't comment to all, I have little time this morning.
Bob, Samuli, Hugo, Lieutenant, Rodluvan, Dubaiphil, Siddhu - Thanks for the inspiration.
Philippe - Thank you and I look forward to your photos!
Kururu- That reminds me of Hayao Miyazaki's work. Love it
1.4/35 @1.4
Apr 01, 2012 at 07:01 AM
Lars Johnsson Offline • • • • • • • Upload & Sell: Off
Just been out at brooklands today for a jag car day and the long mfd of th nikon 105/2.8 was driving me mad, I'm starting to feel temptation towards a 100mp.
What's the infinity rendering like at mid aperture?
I'd have to offload the nikon 105 and the cy 100/3.5.
rji2goleez wrote:
Went for a morning walk today with the 50MP on the 5D3. All wide open. Some of these could be part of a "Fragments of a City" series that I am contemplating.
I like them all.
Bob, quite difference between your 50MP and 100MP photos; did you use same processing, the last batches of 100MP images have been very well web sharpened but these were much more dull?
johnahill wrote:
Just been out at brooklands today for a jag car day and the long mfd of th nikon 105/2.8 was driving me mad, I'm starting to feel temptation towards a 100mp.
What's the infinity rendering like at mid aperture?
I'd have to offload the nikon 105 and the cy 100/3.5.
Infinity rendering is very good. Thou I hardly ever find situations, in which I have subject in infinity (100 meters/300 feet can't be considered as infinity, there are differences in contrast when you focus 100m vs infinity).
My personals pros (+) and cons (-) for long distance shooting / landscapes:
+ best rendering of greens I have seen from any lens (other colors also great)
+ contrast and sharpness really good at middle apertures
+ Zeiss-like rendering giving subjects also shape and volume (this is the argument which comes here every 2-3 years and people fight about 3D in 2D photos and some see it some don't see anything, really I do not miss the "definition" fight few years back...)
- vignetting at long distances large and middle apertures f/2 really bad, f/2.8 bad, f/4 little left
- focus throw; 270 degrees from MFD to 1m, then rest 5 degrees from 1 meter to infinity really difficult to nail focus exactly
- if using polarizer hood has to be removed to rotate filter (at least I have hard time adjusting while hood is in the lens)
- non-focal plane stuff causes really easily CA
Tried, but could not find any shot focused to infinity, maybe closest is the church photo I posted few pages ago. You can browse through this directory for some samples. The filename tells lens (100mm = 100MP), however all of these have main subject = focus distance <100m from camera.
Typically in my landscapes I prefer to have some subject in middle ground. Below few examples from last years summer holiday in Austria. For enhancing the subject I use various techniques, DOF of course being one of them, but majority of Zeiss lenses also have weaker contrast in DOF, which helps - and then naturally you can use "natural" elements like fog to do it.
Road 90, Austria - few kilometer before Italy border - Carl Zeiss Makro-Planar T* 2/100 @ f/2.8, 1/200s, ISO 100 larger
Road SP112, Italy - 150m from Austria border - Carl Zeiss Makro-Planar T* 2/100 @ f/2.8, 1/160s, ISO 100 larger
Screen capture from Apple Aperture (=colors may be weird):
