^^^OK, after 166 pages, it seems the 7D Master Thread has ground itself to a halt talking about a Nikon troll who wants to kill himself but is confused about human biology. I guess that's the end of that...just in time too...it seems the 1DIV first copies are shipping so we can all look forward to the Mark IV Master Thread.
omarlyn wrote:
^^^OK, after 166 pages, it seems the 7D Master Thread has ground itself to a halt talking about a Nikon troll who wants to kill himself but is confused about human biology. I guess that's the end of that...just in time too...it seems the 1DIV first copies are shipping so we can all look forward to the Mark IV Master Thread.
Omar
That was even funnier than the funniest one I read.
I received another 7D body, and while it doesn't have the random OOF shot like the last one, instead of all of lenses being globally off on this body by -5 MA, now they are all over the place. The 17-55mm and 50mm f/1.4 need 0 MA, the 85L II needs -6 and it's razor sharp, and the 70-200 I haven't a clue... maybe between -8 and -11 but I don't have a thin enough dof to be sure.
droopy1592 wrote:
I received another 7D body, and while it doesn't have the random OOF shot like the last one, instead of all of lenses being globally off on this body by -5 MA, now they are all over the place. The 17-55mm and 50mm f/1.4 need 0 MA, the 85L II needs -6 and it's razor sharp, and the 70-200 I haven't a clue... maybe between -8 and -11 but I don't have a thin enough dof to be sure.
This is basically how it is on my lenses. You can't expect every lens to be calibrated the same, unless you sent them in for calibration. That is the purpose of MA so lenses that need minor calibration can be adjusted via the camera.
I assure you the increments of MA calibration are not major adjustments so the difference from -2 to +2 is not that dramatic, unless you have a fast aperture lens. I have 14 lenses and they vary from -3 to +4.
UCSB wrote:
Even if you send your lenses in, they will typically come back requiring some MA value. There shouldn't be anything wrong with values like 0 and -6.
i've heard a few say they've sent body in with lenses and the whole system comes back perfect.
It's not meant to be a detail comparison because they were at different FL and distances. I'm mainly looking at noise and shadows and something else that starts with a B or PN (two words) depending on what you want to call it.
There is also a magenta cast there that I REALLY hate about the 50D, even with the updated firmware it tends to show up, and then that red channel noise seems to stand out more because of it.
I don't know about you but the dark shadows/black area to the right of the Aleve bottle looks outstanding after a bit of NR in dfine @ ISO 12800!
With careful exposure and NR applied you could pull off a decent sized print with the 7D at max ISO. Dare I say a large one at ISO 6400! Based on some of the prints I've seen that hang in museums and people's houses it's definitely possible.
I'd print a poorly exposed print from a 7D @ 6400 or 12800 before printing a poorly exposed 50D ISO 3200 print. 50D even at ISO 3200 isn't pretty when poorly exposed. Dfine cannot remove all of the pattern noise in the 50D at very high ISO or in poorly exposed shots.
If you got that result out of a 5D2 or D700 at iso 12800 you wouldn't complain. In fact, due to the low banding I think it's arguable that it beats both of those full frame cameras for usable results, if not for detail.
I actually do prefer a bit more luminance noise since it appears to be more like film grain. I'm still new to the "test for FM" gig! Forgive me. Any other thoughts?
Tis what happens when you run out of the house without your lunch and the staff at night won't let you leave because you're the one they count on in emergencies. I left once and when I got back all hell had broken loose. Long story. I'll eat better lol.
I got a request by PM about how I did the NR on that 12800 iso file. The answer is I used smart blur on a duplicate layer in photoshop and chose the overlay white option for edges. I then expanded, feathered, and knocked out the white areas and set the layer's blending mode to colour. There are lots of ways to achieve excellent NR just using the built-in Photoshop tools, and typcially it can be done better that way than by any of the commercial NR tools, because it can be suited to each picture, and even particular areas of each picture.
