p.26 #6 · Post your Canon 200mm f/2 (200/2) shots!
SR777 wrote:
+1 Absolutely awesome
Thank you, master SR777.
Here is a little Velociraptor canadiensis landing sequence.
(I wish the background was nicer, but one has to work with what one's got. )
p.26 #7 · Post your Canon 200mm f/2 (200/2) shots!
PetKal wrote:
Thank you, master SR777.
Here is a little Velociraptor canadiensis landing sequence.
(I wish the background was nicer, but one has to work with what one's got. )
Amazing, indeed! The flying canonball appears to be jumping off the screen
p.26 #9 · Post your Canon 200mm f/2 (200/2) shots!
PetKal wrote:
Thank you, master SR777.
Here is a little Velociraptor canadiensis landing sequence.
(I wish the background was nicer, but one has to work with what one's got. )
Your 'raptor looks wonderful Peter. I wish our skies were a bit more blue this time of year. It keeps raining here.
p.26 #10 · Post your Canon 200mm f/2 (200/2) shots!
dolina wrote:
Your 'raptor looks wonderful Peter. I wish our skies were a bit more blue this time of year. It keeps raining here.
Also wish I could bird with just the 200!
Thank you, Paolo......200 f/2 IS is a phenomenally good BIF lens.........the AF speed and surefootedness is impressive. The only problem is getting close enough to your targets.......to some you will, some will elude you, but no harm in trying.
p.26 #12 · Post your Canon 200mm f/2 (200/2) shots!
It is not hard to shoot an albino Peregrine falcon in flap, even in low evening light like in my example. What is a bit harder to find is some kinda different/smooth/interesting background.
Superfast lenses like 200 f/2 obliterate background clutter well.
p.26 #14 · Post your Canon 200mm f/2 (200/2) shots!
Peter,
There is something magic about older bodies. I can't get this silky smooth with my new one. Maybe it's just me who needs to re-learn how to shoot with new bodies again
p.26 #15 · Post your Canon 200mm f/2 (200/2) shots!
Michael,
This is what I try to do:
(1) Locate a suitable background. Typically that would be a pond surrounded by thick vegetation that gives green to golden water reflection.
(2) Find out at what time of the day the light on the subject + water reflection works well.
(4) Use fast lenses wide open.
(5) Minimize ISO value as well as cropping
(6) Minimize the distance to the target, maximize the distance target-background.
(7) Stay away from high luminance sources, underexpose the scene with the camera (i.e., expose to the left ), amplify dark/rich tones.
(8) Use moderate sharpening and low contrast.
I believe that this kind of a basic approach should work with any camera that produces clean files at ISO 100.
p.26 #17 · Post your Canon 200mm f/2 (200/2) shots!
Here, Michael, an extreme example a bit which exemplifies my approach such as it is. The duck in the image is kind of incidental. Its main purpose was to stir up and "excite" the water surface, i.e., the background which is at least as important as the bird in the creation of the effect I hoped to capture.
(200 f/2 IS wide open on 1DMkIIN)
p.26 #19 · Post your Canon 200mm f/2 (200/2) shots!
mttran wrote:
Peter, rendering can't get any better than this one. Now try it with later bodies, a big disappointment for me
Michael, I get similar results with my 40D which is the most recent camera I've got.
However, I must say that 40D file "cleanliness" has been a bit of a disappointment.......gives me noise sometimes even at rather low ISO values such as 200.
)
