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This topic is in the 2009 archive. You can read it and like its posts here. It is read only.
Archive 2009SoldMinolta Rokkor 58mm to EOS conversion kit
p.1 #1SoldMinolta Rokkor 58mm to EOS conversion kit
___________Please Note: 2/24/09 Update_______________
Except for a couple of multiple order requests, all orders have shipped.
Thank You, for your interest.
*****************************************************************************
I have EOS conversion kits for the Minolta Rokkor 58mm lenses at a price of US$57, shipped CONUS. Outside US, please email for shipping.
These kits are for the MC 58/1.2 and MC58/1.4 lenses only, as they are the only Rokkor lenses, that I am aware of, with simple backs that have no aperture mechanics.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3455/3254448018_812cbcb4c9_o.jpg
I’ve tried to make them as turn key as possible. Unscrew the 4 long screws on the Minolta back, remove the Minolta flange and spacer, place the new custom spacer and EF flange in place noting the Canon locking pin position, and replace/tighten the 4 original screws.
This conversion kit is not meant to be sanded or filed for infinity adjustment, as the EOS flange is inset into the spacer and together they form the new face that mates with the camera mount.
Infinity focus will be close, but due to all the variables, one will have to fine tune infinity with the lens focus screws. Instructions are here:
https://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/726266/0#6577191
Another Note: I have found that an "Industrial Sharpie" marker will blacken the inner exposed back from reflections in the mirror box, and could help with image quality.
Please reply, or send me a PM with questions.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3454/3254448076_cd5a9f0f8c_o.jpg
Edited on Feb 24, 2009 at 07:08 PM · View previous versions
Except for a couple of multiple order requests, all orders have shipped.
Thank You, for your interest.
*****************************************************************************
I have EOS conversion kits for the Minolta Rokkor 58mm lenses at a price of US$57, shipped CONUS. Outside US, please email for shipping.
These kits are for the MC 58/1.2 and MC58/1.4 lenses only, as they are the only Rokkor lenses, that I am aware of, with simple backs that have no aperture mechanics.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3455/3254448018_812cbcb4c9_o.jpg
I’ve tried to make them as turn key as possible. Unscrew the 4 long screws on the Minolta back, remove the Minolta flange and spacer, place the new custom spacer and EF flange in place noting the Canon locking pin position, and replace/tighten the 4 original screws.
This conversion kit is not meant to be sanded or filed for infinity adjustment, as the EOS flange is inset into the spacer and together they form the new face that mates with the camera mount.
Infinity focus will be close, but due to all the variables, one will have to fine tune infinity with the lens focus screws. Instructions are here:
https://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/726266/0#6577191
Another Note: I have found that an "Industrial Sharpie" marker will blacken the inner exposed back from reflections in the mirror box, and could help with image quality.
Please reply, or send me a PM with questions.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3454/3254448076_cd5a9f0f8c_o.jpg
Edited on Feb 24, 2009 at 07:08 PM · View previous versions
Jan 08, 2009 at 01:20 PM
p.1 #2SoldMinolta Rokkor 58mm to EOS conversion kit
/ tag so I can find this later. Looks good 
Price for UK?
Price for UK?
Jan 08, 2009 at 01:43 PM
p.1 #3SoldMinolta Rokkor 58mm to EOS conversion kit
I bought one of these from Jim and it works like a charm. Far easier than all that sanding and drilling.
Jan 08, 2009 at 01:48 PM
p.1 #5SoldMinolta Rokkor 58mm to EOS conversion kit
You cannot go wrong with this adaptor. Factor in the cost of a solid M42 adaptor, and you'd be crazy to sand your finger tips off rather than buy one of these!
Jan 08, 2009 at 03:13 PM
p.1 #7SoldMinolta Rokkor 58mm to EOS conversion kit
Jim,
You beat me to the punch as I planned on coverting mine the exact same way, may making a few for sale also, good job. Also, the 85 1.7, 100 2.5 could also both be converted in a very simalar fashion, but a spring would also be needed to open and close the aperture.
You beat me to the punch as I planned on coverting mine the exact same way, may making a few for sale also, good job. Also, the 85 1.7, 100 2.5 could also both be converted in a very simalar fashion, but a spring would also be needed to open and close the aperture.
Jan 08, 2009 at 05:21 PM
p.1 #8SoldMinolta Rokkor 58mm to EOS conversion kit
Jim,
I want one! Please send payment info.
Thomas
I want one! Please send payment info.
Thomas
Jan 08, 2009 at 05:32 PM
p.1 #11SoldMinolta Rokkor 58mm to EOS conversion kit
Thanks Jim.
Sent a PM.
Kenneth
Sent a PM.
Kenneth
Jan 08, 2009 at 06:27 PM
p.1 #12SoldMinolta Rokkor 58mm to EOS conversion kit
Jim, I'll take one if you're willing to ship to Korea. Please let me know by PM if it's possible and if there are any additional shipping charges.
Jan 08, 2009 at 07:01 PM
p.1 #13SoldMinolta Rokkor 58mm to EOS conversion kit
Folks, when I get more to ship, I'll be working this thread and the PMs, so if interested, get on one of them. Thanks, for the interest.
Jan 08, 2009 at 07:19 PM
p.1 #15SoldMinolta Rokkor 58mm to EOS conversion kit
Hi...
Could you send the payment information..
regards...
Could you send the payment information..
regards...
Jan 08, 2009 at 11:46 PM
p.1 #16SoldMinolta Rokkor 58mm to EOS conversion kit
The conversion that Jim did for me using one of his kits, since I am mechanically challenged , is working like a charm 
.
, is working like a charm . Jan 09, 2009 at 12:18 AM
p.1 #17SoldMinolta Rokkor 58mm to EOS conversion kit
This makes buying and using a Rokkor 58mm more tempting. Prices will go up the roof with a mounting kit now.
Jan 09, 2009 at 07:30 AM
p.1 #18SoldMinolta Rokkor 58mm to EOS conversion kit
Hi Jim, I sent you payment yesterday--I'm wondering where the info is on adjusting infinity focus. Can you add a link to a How-To?
Thanx--Bill
Thanx--Bill
Jan 09, 2009 at 10:14 AM
p.1 #19SoldMinolta Rokkor 58mm to EOS conversion kit
Infinity adjustment of the Rokkor 58/1.2 lens
After the lens is converted to EOS, and mounted on an EOS camera, the lens ID ring should be removed. It unscrews counter clockwise, looking at the front of the lens, and is shown below hanging on the end of the lens barrel.
The all metal focus ring of the earlier models are the same construction, and the front edge will unscrew CCW from the focus grip.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3122/3167932053_00c6bcfb4e.jpg
There are several methods of removal. Latex medical gloves will give the hands a better grip. A rubber wrench as shown below will help, also. The nice thing about this lens, is that one is not working with an ID ring so close to the front element glass as to do any harm to the glass.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3113/3108187420_6f715e6cab.jpg
Once the ID ring is removed, the 4 infinity adjustment screws are accessible around the front element assembly:
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1277/3168762560_d65eec0d08.jpg
Although, there may be several techniques to do this, I find the following works for me, and is very exacting. It requires one to have a computer to view 100% crops on, AND have a tripod setup close enough to view a geometric object several miles away.
The 4 infinity adjustment screws lock the focus ring to the lens helicoid. If you unscrew all 4 screws, the focus ring should move freely and independently from the helicoid.
I find a distant telephone pole or other geometric object several miles away and place it center frame. It’s easiest to use a tripod and set the camera lens wide open, 2 second delay and mirror lockup, aperture priority.
I take a shot with the lens focus ring turned all the way to the infinity stop, Then, take a 2nd shot after turning the focus ring back toward near, a very, very small amount, and a 3rd shot back just a bit more. I then remove the card from the camera & plug into the computer, import & view at 100%, and compare the 3 frames I’ve shot.
There will be 1 of 3 scenarios. Exact, perfect focus. If you think you have perfect focus, then the job is done and lets go take pictures. But, if you want to see if that infinity object can get any sharper, then go to next scenario.
#2 scenario where the 2nd and 3rd frame get progressively more out of focus and your not sure 1st frame is perfect. Turn the lens all the way to the infinity stop and loosen all 4 screws until the focus ring moves freely, and back the ring about half way toward the 30ft mark and tighten just 2 of the screws. Now you can turn the focus ring/helicoid more toward infinity. Continue take a frame and compare, until you find that point the distant object gets no sharper. Once the sharpest frame is found, then loosen the 2 tight screws, move the focus ring to the infinity stop, tighten all 4 screws and replace the lens ID ring.
#3 scenario where the object gets more sharp as you go from frame 1, to 2, to 3. This means you started at past infinity, and should continue to move the lens ring a micro amount, shoot a frame, compare, until you find that point the distant object gets no sharper. Once the sharpest frame is found, then loosen the 4 screws, move the focus ring to the infinity stop, tighten all 4 screws and replace the lens ID ring.
Note: There is a tolerance where the lens can be moved 2 or 3 “micro amounts” and there will be no difference in center infinity sharpness. If your technique is good enough, its possible to find the short side of this tolerance and bring nearer distances more into focus, thereby increasing depth of field at the infinity setting.
Back to the B&S listing for the Rokkor 58mm Conversion Kit
Edited on Jan 24, 2009 at 08:09 AM · View previous versions
After the lens is converted to EOS, and mounted on an EOS camera, the lens ID ring should be removed. It unscrews counter clockwise, looking at the front of the lens, and is shown below hanging on the end of the lens barrel.
The all metal focus ring of the earlier models are the same construction, and the front edge will unscrew CCW from the focus grip.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3122/3167932053_00c6bcfb4e.jpg
There are several methods of removal. Latex medical gloves will give the hands a better grip. A rubber wrench as shown below will help, also. The nice thing about this lens, is that one is not working with an ID ring so close to the front element glass as to do any harm to the glass.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3113/3108187420_6f715e6cab.jpg
Once the ID ring is removed, the 4 infinity adjustment screws are accessible around the front element assembly:
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1277/3168762560_d65eec0d08.jpg
Although, there may be several techniques to do this, I find the following works for me, and is very exacting. It requires one to have a computer to view 100% crops on, AND have a tripod setup close enough to view a geometric object several miles away.
The 4 infinity adjustment screws lock the focus ring to the lens helicoid. If you unscrew all 4 screws, the focus ring should move freely and independently from the helicoid.
I find a distant telephone pole or other geometric object several miles away and place it center frame. It’s easiest to use a tripod and set the camera lens wide open, 2 second delay and mirror lockup, aperture priority.
I take a shot with the lens focus ring turned all the way to the infinity stop, Then, take a 2nd shot after turning the focus ring back toward near, a very, very small amount, and a 3rd shot back just a bit more. I then remove the card from the camera & plug into the computer, import & view at 100%, and compare the 3 frames I’ve shot.
There will be 1 of 3 scenarios. Exact, perfect focus. If you think you have perfect focus, then the job is done and lets go take pictures. But, if you want to see if that infinity object can get any sharper, then go to next scenario.
#2 scenario where the 2nd and 3rd frame get progressively more out of focus and your not sure 1st frame is perfect. Turn the lens all the way to the infinity stop and loosen all 4 screws until the focus ring moves freely, and back the ring about half way toward the 30ft mark and tighten just 2 of the screws. Now you can turn the focus ring/helicoid more toward infinity. Continue take a frame and compare, until you find that point the distant object gets no sharper. Once the sharpest frame is found, then loosen the 2 tight screws, move the focus ring to the infinity stop, tighten all 4 screws and replace the lens ID ring.
#3 scenario where the object gets more sharp as you go from frame 1, to 2, to 3. This means you started at past infinity, and should continue to move the lens ring a micro amount, shoot a frame, compare, until you find that point the distant object gets no sharper. Once the sharpest frame is found, then loosen the 4 screws, move the focus ring to the infinity stop, tighten all 4 screws and replace the lens ID ring.
Note: There is a tolerance where the lens can be moved 2 or 3 “micro amounts” and there will be no difference in center infinity sharpness. If your technique is good enough, its possible to find the short side of this tolerance and bring nearer distances more into focus, thereby increasing depth of field at the infinity setting.
Back to the B&S listing for the Rokkor 58mm Conversion Kit
Edited on Jan 24, 2009 at 08:09 AM · View previous versions
Jan 09, 2009 at 01:16 PM
p.1 #20SoldMinolta Rokkor 58mm to EOS conversion kit
A great news to use and preserve this great lens at the same time. Thnaks, Bill. Please bill me.
Jan 10, 2009 at 09:00 PM