I sent these guys an email weeks ago (this lens has been there for months) asking for better pictures. They never responded. Not sure if I would send them money...
All the Rokkors I have bought (no less than 4, in the end) have been cheaper than this one with today´s Norwegian kroner to Euro rate...
cogitech wrote:
Yes, but I am not worried about it, as I am not worried at all about the scratch.
Did you notice the serial number? I have only ever seen one other like it, and I own it.
Of all the ones mentioned in this thread, that would be the one I'd buy.
Also, all the others will likely go for more than the BIN price of this one.
I figured it was that low SN. You must really cherish yours above all the others you have used. The first one mentioned in the thread peaked my interest due to the low serial number but I must say I'm pretty happy with the one I bought. When I have some extra $, I will give one of the Radioactive versions a try. I noticed one seller recently claimed that the later versions used improved titanium aperture blades. First time I had heard that.
Anden wrote:
Cogi: That lens has been on the bay for months now. Might be a dodgy store...
A
Yeah, I discussed it with Ulrik and decided the multiple shipping fees would put the price into the "stupid" range.
I think it has been there for a while because it is old, ugly, and banged up. Just like my keeper 200xxxx. Many people assume the rubber grip versions are the ones to go for.
pascal03 wrote:
Are the lower serial numbers better than the later one's.... just curious.
There is no definite rule here, but the two "ultimate" performers I have used (out of many copies) were both old, radioactive versions.
I've had two that were sub-par; one metal focus ring (non-radioactive) and one rubber focus ring. And by sub-par, I mean still very usable, but a bit to the softer side wide-open.
All the rest were "merely" excellent.
To the best of my knowledge, 200xxxx-256xxxx are radioactive.
By f2, it is very difficult to tell difference between any of them.
pascal03 wrote:
Did you try any 277XXXX serial number lenses. Did you notice if these were better in anyway ?
I can't remember if I ever had a 277xxxx. I know for sure that I had several of the 274xxxx-276xxxx rubber-gripped versions. They were all the same, optically.
Interestingly the 200xxxx one I have has the 'long grip' metal focus grip, before they went to the really-scalloped metal grip. I'll have to check the serial # of the last 4 digits...
There's a 250xxxx one out there now too, I forget the # but it's probably one of the ones already mentioned.
The tone of this thread started out pretty aggressive on the idea of acquiring one of the several 58/1.2s up for auction. Using sniper programs and all...
Just curious how aggressive the bidding is going to be? Anyone care to 'fess up with what they are willing to pay for this lens? I need to know whether to stay at home or not.
Oh, and although we have crackerjack craftsmen around here, I would love to do any EF conversions. In fact, I'm working on a EF flange/spacer combo piece that can be screwed right onto the back of the 58/1.2 with the original screws, and be real close to infinity focus. The owner would fine tune the lens with the lens focus screws.
>>The tone of this thread started out pretty aggressive on the idea of acquiring one of the several 58/1.2s up for auction. Using sniper programs and all...<<
Not trying to be aggressive. That's the way I bid on eBay most of the time because sometimes the auction closes when I am sleeping. I just put in a price that I am willing to spend and let the program bid for me instead of me sitting in front of the computer during wee hours of the morning.
I am not really crazy about getting the lens so I plan on trying $300 max. I know some of them has gone for $400 or more but I don't want to get sweaty palms while converting a $500 lens. One oops with my file and I will scratch the lens.;-)
J/K on that. Although, I don't understand what the difference between using a bid sniper program and just putting in your max bid. If someone is going to outbid you, they're going to do it, right? So, say you put in your max bid of 250. I bid 300, and I will win it at just over 250 unless someone else bids before the end of the auction. I don't get what the bid sniper does for you. (Not criticizing, just truly interested)
J/K on that. Although, I don't understand what the difference between using a bid sniper program and just putting in your max bid. If someone is going to outbid you, they're going to do it, right? So, say you put in your max bid of 250. I bid 300, and I will win it at just over 250 unless someone else bids before the end of the auction. I don't get what the bid sniper does for you. (Not criticizing, just truly interested)
Putting in your max bid to begin with is a good way to bid up an auction, particularly on a popular item. If you put in your max bid during the last five to ten seconds, the chances of someone else outbidding you AND the price being overly inflated becomes much less. That's why people snipe. The element of surprise is on your side. Irrationality often rules on ebay which is why your seemingly sound logic does not apply on a hot item. That's my experience anyway.
lock in and it bid you max money ~7sec befor end.
even if u are offline.
worxs great.
I would'nt put my trust in Snipe programs because they only work if someone does'nt outbid the maximum budget you set them to bid up to.
Plus they really piss unsucessfull bidders off!!!
I have only ever seen one other like it, and I own it.