Never had any issues w/ Kentmere 400. One thing that is super nice is, as @dourbalistar mentioned, it dries completely flat making it so easy to handle.
It does not have as good anti-halation properies as HP5, but then again that is one reason I like it so much. It really gives you that classic B&W look.
I have not had quality issues w Fomapan 400 but do not use it anymore as I prefer Kentmere for price, and even more so that Kentmere 400 acts like an ISO 400 film, whereas in my use Fomapan 400 seems to be an ISO 200 film.
If I'm buying an ISO 400 film, it's because I want it to be an ISO 400 film!
Desmolicious wrote: Jman13 wrotedourbalistar wroteNikon FM2n, AI Nikkor 50mm f/1.8S, Kentmere Pan 400, developed in LegacyPro L110 at 1:31 for 5.5 minutes.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52268855102_c9cd9d8cd7_c.jpgI think I need to try Kentmere 400. Looks really nice. Does this have any of the scratching and curling problems that something like Fomapan 400 has, or is it more well behaved?Never had any issues w/ Kentmere 400. One thing that is super nice is, as @dourbalistar@ mentioned, it dries completely flat making it so easy to handle.
It does not have as good anti-halation properies as HP5, but then again that is one reason I like it so much. It really gives you that classic B&W look.
I have not had quality issues w Fomapan 400 but do not use it anymore as I prefer Kentmere for price, and even more so that Kentmere 400 acts like an ISO 400 film, whereas in my use Fomapan 400 seems to be an ISO 200 film.
If I'm buying an ISO 400 film, it's because I want it to be an ISO 400 film!...Show more →
I've mentioned it before, and will again (at the risk of sounding like a really old guy...), but Kentmere 400 reminds me very much of the old Tri-X formulation. And, I will say that I prefer the Kentmere 100 to FP4. I think the contrast is more manageable.
Out of the fourteen B&W emulsions I've tried, Ilford Delta 3200 is easily the one I like the least (though this judgement might be unfair since the lab uses TMax developer which is probably not the best choice). This roll was rated at EI 1600 and pushed two stops, in an unsuccessful attempt to inject some life into it.
Jman13 wrote: dourbalistar wroteJman13 wrotedourbalistar wroteNikon FM2n, AI Nikkor 50mm f/1.8S, Kentmere Pan 400, developed in LegacyPro L110 at 1:31 for 5.5 minutes.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52268855102_c9cd9d8cd7_c.jpgI think I need to try Kentmere 400. Looks really nice. Does this have any of the scratching and curling problems that something like Fomapan 400 has, or is it more well behaved?@Jman13@@@, I've never tried Fomapan 400 (though I'm sure @Desmolicious@@ has), but no scratching so far with Kentmere 400. It's an Ilford/Harman product, so QC is top notch. I use distilled water for the developing and final wash, and the film dries perfectly flat - great for digitizing/scanning. It does have somewhat weak anti-halation, so very bright highlights might glow a bit. Depending on your preference, that's either a feature or a bug. I'm part way through my second bulk roll, and I've only had one instance where the weak anti-halation was a problem, where a very overexposed (right) edge of a frame piped light and slightly fogged the (left) edge of the next frame.
Speaking of bulk rolls, at the current price (~$70 per 100-foot), it's probably one of the best cost/value B&W films available. I've gotten 18 (+a few shorter rolls) 36-exposure rolls, which breaks down to about $3.88/36-exposure roll. I just ordered two more bulk rolls from Freestyle.Thanks. Unfortunately, I see it's only for 35mm, which is a bummer (I pretty much only shoot 120 when I shoot film).
@Jman13, take this with a giant grain of silver halide, but some people on the web think that Kentmere 400 = Rollei RPX 400, which is available in both 120 (and 135 format). Never tried any of the Rollei RPX films myself, so YMMV. Are they actually the same? Who knows... Are they very similar? For $9.99 at B&H, I guess you could try a roll of RPX 400 in 120 and compare...
GA645 60/4 these of mine were shot on Reala 120 mostly, some NPH. They used to say use the colours on the box that matches the subject. Green/blue (Fuji) for landscapes, red/yellow (Kodak) for people, events. Some truth in that. [scanned on a Minolta MultiPro]