Post your recent film shots!
p.837 #1Post your recent film shots!
Alpha_Geist wrote:
I developed in Cinestill Df96 with the continuous agitation method (~80°F) which resulted in reticulation. I think I will stick with the standard minimal agitation method as I've had very good luck with that particular method and not getting reticulated negatives.
Also, I shot this on a Nikon FE that a coworker let me borrow. He said I could make him an offer on the camera if I'd like. It's very clean and has been well kept since he purchased it in 1983. The only issue I've noticed is that one of the shutter speeds (likely near 1/1000) isn't accurate as I'm seeing black horizontal bands on the bottom half of some of the negatives/photos. I'm trying to factor in the extra cost associated with sending the camera out for a CLA. Would anyone know of a good source to send out a FE for a CLA?
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51045608756_33b8b5a9da_b.jpg
Nikon FE - Voigtlander Nokton 58mm f1.4 SL II S by Senior Frog, on Flickr
Example of one of a few pictures where the shutter is out of sync.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51045623911_03e423f973_b.jpg
Nikon FE - Voigtlander Nokton 58mm f1.4 SL II S by Senior Frog, on FlickrShutter issues on a $100 camera? Honestly I'd pass on it, it looks like other electrical issues may be occurring.
There are too many good ones out there for little money to deal with one that needs fixin.
I unloaded an FE2 because it started to act up.Thank you Huss! It’s a fun little camera to shoot. It’s a shame about the shutter though. I’m guessing the cost of CLA would be about the same or more than another FE then? Bummer. Oh well, at least I captured some fun shots with it. 
I've got perfectly good Nikon Fm and FM2n which are - dare I say it - more fun to use than a broken FE. Just happen to be unloading them (along with about 60-70 other cameras, I kid you not...) I give u good price because I like your hat!
I just took inventory of my film camera bodies. 80. And I just recently sold 8! I need to get rid of a bunch, this has become, umm, worrying...
Desmolicious wrote
Alpha_Geist wrote
Ilford HP5 Plus 400 w/ Orange filterI developed in Cinestill Df96 with the continuous agitation method (~80°F) which resulted in reticulation. I think I will stick with the standard minimal agitation method as I've had very good luck with that particular method and not getting reticulated negatives.
Also, I shot this on a Nikon FE that a coworker let me borrow. He said I could make him an offer on the camera if I'd like. It's very clean and has been well kept since he purchased it in 1983. The only issue I've noticed is that one of the shutter speeds (likely near 1/1000) isn't accurate as I'm seeing black horizontal bands on the bottom half of some of the negatives/photos. I'm trying to factor in the extra cost associated with sending the camera out for a CLA. Would anyone know of a good source to send out a FE for a CLA?
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51045608756_33b8b5a9da_b.jpg
Nikon FE - Voigtlander Nokton 58mm f1.4 SL II S by Senior Frog, on Flickr
Example of one of a few pictures where the shutter is out of sync.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51045623911_03e423f973_b.jpg
Nikon FE - Voigtlander Nokton 58mm f1.4 SL II S by Senior Frog, on Flickr
There are too many good ones out there for little money to deal with one that needs fixin.
I unloaded an FE2 because it started to act up.
I've got perfectly good Nikon Fm and FM2n which are - dare I say it - more fun to use than a broken FE. Just happen to be unloading them (along with about 60-70 other cameras, I kid you not...) I give u good price because I like your hat!
I just took inventory of my film camera bodies. 80. And I just recently sold 8! I need to get rid of a bunch, this has become, umm, worrying...
Mar 17, 2021 at 03:23 PM
p.837 #3Post your recent film shots!
Desmolicious wrote:
I developed in Cinestill Df96 with the continuous agitation method (~80°F) which resulted in reticulation. I think I will stick with the standard minimal agitation method as I've had very good luck with that particular method and not getting reticulated negatives.
Also, I shot this on a Nikon FE that a coworker let me borrow. He said I could make him an offer on the camera if I'd like. It's very clean and has been well kept since he purchased it in 1983. The only issue I've noticed is that one of the shutter speeds (likely near 1/1000) isn't accurate as I'm seeing black horizontal bands on the bottom half of some of the negatives/photos. I'm trying to factor in the extra cost associated with sending the camera out for a CLA. Would anyone know of a good source to send out a FE for a CLA?
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51045608756_33b8b5a9da_b.jpg
Nikon FE - Voigtlander Nokton 58mm f1.4 SL II S by Senior Frog, on Flickr
Example of one of a few pictures where the shutter is out of sync.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51045623911_03e423f973_b.jpg
Nikon FE - Voigtlander Nokton 58mm f1.4 SL II S by Senior Frog, on FlickrShutter issues on a $100 camera? Honestly I'd pass on it, it looks like other electrical issues may be occurring.
There are too many good ones out there for little money to deal with one that needs fixin.
I unloaded an FE2 because it started to act up.Thank you Huss! It’s a fun little camera to shoot. It’s a shame about the shutter though. I’m guessing the cost of CLA would be about the same or more than another FE then? Bummer. Oh well, at least I captured some fun shots with it. I've got perfectly good Nikon Fm and FM2n which are - dare I say it - more fun to use than a broken FE. Just happen to be unloading them (along with about 60-70 other cameras, I kid you not...) I give u good price because I like your hat!
I just took inventory of my film camera bodies. 80. And I just recently sold 8! I need to get rid of a bunch, this has become, umm, worrying...
I've never tried a Nikon FM3a, but I have a Nikon FM2n and it's the bee's knees. The mechanical 1/4000 is more useful than I thought, especially for someone who mainly uses ISO 400 film.
80 film camera bodies?! Good lord, Huss, save some for the rest of us!
Alpha_Geist wrote
Desmolicious wrote
Alpha_Geist wrote
Ilford HP5 Plus 400 w/ Orange filterI developed in Cinestill Df96 with the continuous agitation method (~80°F) which resulted in reticulation. I think I will stick with the standard minimal agitation method as I've had very good luck with that particular method and not getting reticulated negatives.
Also, I shot this on a Nikon FE that a coworker let me borrow. He said I could make him an offer on the camera if I'd like. It's very clean and has been well kept since he purchased it in 1983. The only issue I've noticed is that one of the shutter speeds (likely near 1/1000) isn't accurate as I'm seeing black horizontal bands on the bottom half of some of the negatives/photos. I'm trying to factor in the extra cost associated with sending the camera out for a CLA. Would anyone know of a good source to send out a FE for a CLA?
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51045608756_33b8b5a9da_b.jpg
Nikon FE - Voigtlander Nokton 58mm f1.4 SL II S by Senior Frog, on Flickr
Example of one of a few pictures where the shutter is out of sync.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51045623911_03e423f973_b.jpg
Nikon FE - Voigtlander Nokton 58mm f1.4 SL II S by Senior Frog, on Flickr
There are too many good ones out there for little money to deal with one that needs fixin.
I unloaded an FE2 because it started to act up.
I just took inventory of my film camera bodies. 80. And I just recently sold 8! I need to get rid of a bunch, this has become, umm, worrying...
I've never tried a Nikon FM3a, but I have a Nikon FM2n and it's the bee's knees. The mechanical 1/4000 is more useful than I thought, especially for someone who mainly uses ISO 400 film.
80 film camera bodies?! Good lord, Huss, save some for the rest of us!
Mar 17, 2021 at 04:03 PM
p.837 #4Post your recent film shots!
dourbalistar wrote:
I developed in Cinestill Df96 with the continuous agitation method (~80°F) which resulted in reticulation. I think I will stick with the standard minimal agitation method as I've had very good luck with that particular method and not getting reticulated negatives.
Also, I shot this on a Nikon FE that a coworker let me borrow. He said I could make him an offer on the camera if I'd like. It's very clean and has been well kept since he purchased it in 1983. The only issue I've noticed is that one of the shutter speeds (likely near 1/1000) isn't accurate as I'm seeing black horizontal bands on the bottom half of some of the negatives/photos. I'm trying to factor in the extra cost associated with sending the camera out for a CLA. Would anyone know of a good source to send out a FE for a CLA?
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51045608756_33b8b5a9da_b.jpg
Nikon FE - Voigtlander Nokton 58mm f1.4 SL II S by Senior Frog, on Flickr
Example of one of a few pictures where the shutter is out of sync.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51045623911_03e423f973_b.jpg
Nikon FE - Voigtlander Nokton 58mm f1.4 SL II S by Senior Frog, on FlickrShutter issues on a $100 camera? Honestly I'd pass on it, it looks like other electrical issues may be occurring.
There are too many good ones out there for little money to deal with one that needs fixin.
I unloaded an FE2 because it started to act up.Thank you Huss! It’s a fun little camera to shoot. It’s a shame about the shutter though. I’m guessing the cost of CLA would be about the same or more than another FE then? Bummer. Oh well, at least I captured some fun shots with it. I've got perfectly good Nikon Fm and FM2n which are - dare I say it - more fun to use than a broken FE. Just happen to be unloading them (along with about 60-70 other cameras, I kid you not...) I give u good price because I like your hat!
I just took inventory of my film camera bodies. 80. And I just recently sold 8! I need to get rid of a bunch, this has become, umm, worrying...I've never tried a Nikon FM3a, but I have a Nikon FM2n and it's the bee's knees. The mechanical 1/4000 is more useful than I thought, especially for someone who mainly uses ISO 400 film.
80 film camera bodies?! Good lord, Huss, save some for the rest of us!
I keep buying them thinking I'll try them out for a week or so, then release.
Except that last part never happens.
Desmolicious wrote
Alpha_Geist wrote
Desmolicious wrote
Alpha_Geist wrote
Ilford HP5 Plus 400 w/ Orange filterI developed in Cinestill Df96 with the continuous agitation method (~80°F) which resulted in reticulation. I think I will stick with the standard minimal agitation method as I've had very good luck with that particular method and not getting reticulated negatives.
Also, I shot this on a Nikon FE that a coworker let me borrow. He said I could make him an offer on the camera if I'd like. It's very clean and has been well kept since he purchased it in 1983. The only issue I've noticed is that one of the shutter speeds (likely near 1/1000) isn't accurate as I'm seeing black horizontal bands on the bottom half of some of the negatives/photos. I'm trying to factor in the extra cost associated with sending the camera out for a CLA. Would anyone know of a good source to send out a FE for a CLA?
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51045608756_33b8b5a9da_b.jpg
Nikon FE - Voigtlander Nokton 58mm f1.4 SL II S by Senior Frog, on Flickr
Example of one of a few pictures where the shutter is out of sync.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51045623911_03e423f973_b.jpg
Nikon FE - Voigtlander Nokton 58mm f1.4 SL II S by Senior Frog, on Flickr
There are too many good ones out there for little money to deal with one that needs fixin.
I unloaded an FE2 because it started to act up.
I just took inventory of my film camera bodies. 80. And I just recently sold 8! I need to get rid of a bunch, this has become, umm, worrying...
80 film camera bodies?! Good lord, Huss, save some for the rest of us!
I keep buying them thinking I'll try them out for a week or so, then release.
Except that last part never happens.
Mar 17, 2021 at 04:20 PM
p.837 #5Post your recent film shots!
fjablo wrote:
Some more recent re-scans.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51045513708_2a7e157144_c.jpgBronica SQ-Ai / Ilford XP2 / 2015 by Felix, auf Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51046331237_1760971398_c.jpgBronica SQ-Ai / Ilford XP2 / 2015 by Felix, auf Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51046244886_e870dd5b58_c.jpgBronica SQ-Ai / Ilford XP2 / 2015 by Felix, auf Flickr
the last of these is from the Eastern Pediment of the Temple of Aphaia in Aegina. A magnificent expression of early Classical art.
Some more recent re-scans.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51045513708_2a7e157144_c.jpgBronica SQ-Ai / Ilford XP2 / 2015 by Felix, auf Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51046331237_1760971398_c.jpgBronica SQ-Ai / Ilford XP2 / 2015 by Felix, auf Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51046244886_e870dd5b58_c.jpgBronica SQ-Ai / Ilford XP2 / 2015 by Felix, auf Flickr
the last of these is from the Eastern Pediment of the Temple of Aphaia in Aegina. A magnificent expression of early Classical art.
Mar 17, 2021 at 04:48 PM
p.837 #6Post your recent film shots!
Desmolicious wrote:
I developed in Cinestill Df96 with the continuous agitation method (~80°F) which resulted in reticulation. I think I will stick with the standard minimal agitation method as I've had very good luck with that particular method and not getting reticulated negatives.
Also, I shot this on a Nikon FE that a coworker let me borrow. He said I could make him an offer on the camera if I'd like. It's very clean and has been well kept since he purchased it in 1983. The only issue I've noticed is that one of the shutter speeds (likely near 1/1000) isn't accurate as I'm seeing black horizontal bands on the bottom half of some of the negatives/photos. I'm trying to factor in the extra cost associated with sending the camera out for a CLA. Would anyone know of a good source to send out a FE for a CLA?
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51045608756_33b8b5a9da_b.jpg
Nikon FE - Voigtlander Nokton 58mm f1.4 SL II S by Senior Frog, on Flickr
Example of one of a few pictures where the shutter is out of sync.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51045623911_03e423f973_b.jpg
Nikon FE - Voigtlander Nokton 58mm f1.4 SL II S by Senior Frog, on FlickrShutter issues on a $100 camera? Honestly I'd pass on it, it looks like other electrical issues may be occurring.
There are too many good ones out there for little money to deal with one that needs fixin.
I unloaded an FE2 because it started to act up.Thank you Huss! It’s a fun little camera to shoot. It’s a shame about the shutter though. I’m guessing the cost of CLA would be about the same or more than another FE then? Bummer. Oh well, at least I captured some fun shots with it. I've got perfectly good Nikon Fm and FM2n which are - dare I say it - more fun to use than a broken FE. Just happen to be unloading them (along with about 60-70 other cameras, I kid you not...) I give u good price because I like your hat!
I just took inventory of my film camera bodies. 80. And I just recently sold 8! I need to get rid of a bunch, this has become, umm, worrying...I've never tried a Nikon FM3a, but I have a Nikon FM2n and it's the bee's knees. The mechanical 1/4000 is more useful than I thought, especially for someone who mainly uses ISO 400 film.
80 film camera bodies?! Good lord, Huss, save some for the rest of us!I keep buying them thinking I'll try them out for a week or so, then release.
Except that last part never happens.
I don't have 80 film bodies yet, but certainly have more than my fair share. I haven't bought a new film camera body since last February (which is probably a personal record for me) and also sold a few bodies in the last few months. I already resisted the Pen F temptation upthread, so don't tempt me with whatever else you're trying to unload, Huss!
dourbalistar wrote
Desmolicious wrote
Alpha_Geist wrote
Desmolicious wrote
Alpha_Geist wrote
Ilford HP5 Plus 400 w/ Orange filterI developed in Cinestill Df96 with the continuous agitation method (~80°F) which resulted in reticulation. I think I will stick with the standard minimal agitation method as I've had very good luck with that particular method and not getting reticulated negatives.
Also, I shot this on a Nikon FE that a coworker let me borrow. He said I could make him an offer on the camera if I'd like. It's very clean and has been well kept since he purchased it in 1983. The only issue I've noticed is that one of the shutter speeds (likely near 1/1000) isn't accurate as I'm seeing black horizontal bands on the bottom half of some of the negatives/photos. I'm trying to factor in the extra cost associated with sending the camera out for a CLA. Would anyone know of a good source to send out a FE for a CLA?
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51045608756_33b8b5a9da_b.jpg
Nikon FE - Voigtlander Nokton 58mm f1.4 SL II S by Senior Frog, on Flickr
Example of one of a few pictures where the shutter is out of sync.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51045623911_03e423f973_b.jpg
Nikon FE - Voigtlander Nokton 58mm f1.4 SL II S by Senior Frog, on Flickr
There are too many good ones out there for little money to deal with one that needs fixin.
I unloaded an FE2 because it started to act up.
I just took inventory of my film camera bodies. 80. And I just recently sold 8! I need to get rid of a bunch, this has become, umm, worrying...
80 film camera bodies?! Good lord, Huss, save some for the rest of us!
Except that last part never happens.
I don't have 80 film bodies yet, but certainly have more than my fair share. I haven't bought a new film camera body since last February (which is probably a personal record for me) and also sold a few bodies in the last few months. I already resisted the Pen F temptation upthread, so don't tempt me with whatever else you're trying to unload, Huss!
Mar 17, 2021 at 04:51 PM
p.837 #7Post your recent film shots!
dourbalistar wrote:
There are too many good ones out there for little money to deal with one that needs fixin.
I unloaded an FE2 because it started to act up.Thank you Huss! It’s a fun little camera to shoot. It’s a shame about the shutter though. I’m guessing the cost of CLA would be about the same or more than another FE then? Bummer. Oh well, at least I captured some fun shots with it. I've got perfectly good Nikon Fm and FM2n which are - dare I say it - more fun to use than a broken FE. Just happen to be unloading them (along with about 60-70 other cameras, I kid you not...) I give u good price because I like your hat!
I just took inventory of my film camera bodies. 80. And I just recently sold 8! I need to get rid of a bunch, this has become, umm, worrying...I've never tried a Nikon FM3a, but I have a Nikon FM2n and it's the bee's knees. The mechanical 1/4000 is more useful than I thought, especially for someone who mainly uses ISO 400 film.
80 film camera bodies?! Good lord, Huss, save some for the rest of us!I keep buying them thinking I'll try them out for a week or so, then release.
Except that last part never happens.
I don't have 80 film bodies yet, but certainly have more than my fair share. I haven't bought a new film camera body since last February (which is probably a personal record for me) and also sold a few bodies in the last few months. I already resisted the Pen F temptation upthread, so don't tempt me with whatever else you're trying to unload, Huss!
Pen FT is a keeper. It's an unusual and very fun format that can be used in so many creative ways.
Everyone should have one! Seriously. So enjoyable to use with an incredibly crisp and lag free shutter release.
Desmolicious wrote
dourbalistar wrote
Desmolicious wrote
Alpha_Geist wrote
Desmolicious wrote
Shutter issues on a $100 camera? Honestly I'd pass on it, it looks like other electrical issues may be occurring.There are too many good ones out there for little money to deal with one that needs fixin.
I unloaded an FE2 because it started to act up.
I just took inventory of my film camera bodies. 80. And I just recently sold 8! I need to get rid of a bunch, this has become, umm, worrying...
80 film camera bodies?! Good lord, Huss, save some for the rest of us!
Except that last part never happens.
Pen FT is a keeper. It's an unusual and very fun format that can be used in so many creative ways.
Everyone should have one! Seriously. So enjoyable to use with an incredibly crisp and lag free shutter release.
Mar 17, 2021 at 04:58 PM
p.837 #9Post your recent film shots!
Desmolicious wrote:
I've got perfectly good Nikon Fm and FM2n which are - dare I say it - more fun to use than a broken FE. Just happen to be unloading them (along with about 60-70 other cameras, I kid you not...) I give u good price because I like your hat!
I just took inventory of my film camera bodies. 80. And I just recently sold 8! I need to get rid of a bunch, this has become, umm, worrying...I've never tried a Nikon FM3a, but I have a Nikon FM2n and it's the bee's knees. The mechanical 1/4000 is more useful than I thought, especially for someone who mainly uses ISO 400 film.
80 film camera bodies?! Good lord, Huss, save some for the rest of us!I keep buying them thinking I'll try them out for a week or so, then release.
Except that last part never happens.
I don't have 80 film bodies yet, but certainly have more than my fair share. I haven't bought a new film camera body since last February (which is probably a personal record for me) and also sold a few bodies in the last few months. I already resisted the Pen F temptation upthread, so don't tempt me with whatever else you're trying to unload, Huss! Pen FT is a keeper. It's an unusual and very fun format that can be used in so many creative ways.
Everyone should have one! Seriously. So enjoyable to use with an incredibly crisp and lag free shutter release.
I have a Pen S, which I hear is mightier than the sword. If I get a Pen FT, will two half frame cameras make a full frame?
dourbalistar wrote
Desmolicious wrote
dourbalistar wrote
Desmolicious wrote
Alpha_Geist wrote
Thank you Huss! It’s a fun little camera to shoot. It’s a shame about the shutter though. I’m guessing the cost of CLA would be about the same or more than another FE then? Bummer. Oh well, at least I captured some fun shots with it.I just took inventory of my film camera bodies. 80. And I just recently sold 8! I need to get rid of a bunch, this has become, umm, worrying...
80 film camera bodies?! Good lord, Huss, save some for the rest of us!
Except that last part never happens.
Everyone should have one! Seriously. So enjoyable to use with an incredibly crisp and lag free shutter release.
I have a Pen S, which I hear is mightier than the sword. If I get a Pen FT, will two half frame cameras make a full frame?
Mar 17, 2021 at 06:03 PM
p.837 #10Post your recent film shots!
Nikon FM2n, AI Nikkor 50mm f/1.8S, Kentmere Pan 400, developed in LegacyPro L110 at 1:31 for 5.5 minutes.
2021.02.06 Roll #268-05965-positive.jpg by dourbalistar, on Flickr
2021.02.06 Roll #268-05965-positive.jpg by dourbalistar, on Flickr
Mar 17, 2021 at 06:04 PM
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p.837 #11Post your recent film shots!
Desmolicious wrote:
I developed in Cinestill Df96 with the continuous agitation method (~80°F) which resulted in reticulation. I think I will stick with the standard minimal agitation method as I've had very good luck with that particular method and not getting reticulated negatives.
Also, I shot this on a Nikon FE that a coworker let me borrow. He said I could make him an offer on the camera if I'd like. It's very clean and has been well kept since he purchased it in 1983. The only issue I've noticed is that one of the shutter speeds (likely near 1/1000) isn't accurate as I'm seeing black horizontal bands on the bottom half of some of the negatives/photos. I'm trying to factor in the extra cost associated with sending the camera out for a CLA. Would anyone know of a good source to send out a FE for a CLA?
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51045608756_33b8b5a9da_b.jpg
Nikon FE - Voigtlander Nokton 58mm f1.4 SL II S by Senior Frog, on Flickr
Example of one of a few pictures where the shutter is out of sync.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51045623911_03e423f973_b.jpg
Nikon FE - Voigtlander Nokton 58mm f1.4 SL II S by Senior Frog, on FlickrShutter issues on a $100 camera? Honestly I'd pass on it, it looks like other electrical issues may be occurring.
There are too many good ones out there for little money to deal with one that needs fixin.
I unloaded an FE2 because it started to act up.Thank you Huss! It’s a fun little camera to shoot. It’s a shame about the shutter though. I’m guessing the cost of CLA would be about the same or more than another FE then? Bummer. Oh well, at least I captured some fun shots with it. I've got perfectly good Nikon Fm and FM2n which are - dare I say it - more fun to use than a broken FE. Just happen to be unloading them (along with about 60-70 other cameras, I kid you not...) I give u good price because I like your hat!
I just took inventory of my film camera bodies. 80. And I just recently sold 8! I need to get rid of a bunch, this has become, umm, worrying...I've never tried a Nikon FM3a, but I have a Nikon FM2n and it's the bee's knees. The mechanical 1/4000 is more useful than I thought, especially for someone who mainly uses ISO 400 film.
80 film camera bodies?! Good lord, Huss, save some for the rest of us!I keep buying them thinking I'll try them out for a week or so, then release.
Except that last part never happens.
I'm nowhere remotely near 80 film bodies but, after believing for a year that an M4 was the only film body I needed (or wanted), I've recently succumbed to Pen FT & FV mania and, as I sit writing this post, I'm waiting for the DHL guy to drop off a Canon 7S.
dourbalistar wrote
Desmolicious wrote
Alpha_Geist wrote
Desmolicious wrote
Alpha_Geist wrote
Ilford HP5 Plus 400 w/ Orange filterI developed in Cinestill Df96 with the continuous agitation method (~80°F) which resulted in reticulation. I think I will stick with the standard minimal agitation method as I've had very good luck with that particular method and not getting reticulated negatives.
Also, I shot this on a Nikon FE that a coworker let me borrow. He said I could make him an offer on the camera if I'd like. It's very clean and has been well kept since he purchased it in 1983. The only issue I've noticed is that one of the shutter speeds (likely near 1/1000) isn't accurate as I'm seeing black horizontal bands on the bottom half of some of the negatives/photos. I'm trying to factor in the extra cost associated with sending the camera out for a CLA. Would anyone know of a good source to send out a FE for a CLA?
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51045608756_33b8b5a9da_b.jpg
Nikon FE - Voigtlander Nokton 58mm f1.4 SL II S by Senior Frog, on Flickr
Example of one of a few pictures where the shutter is out of sync.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51045623911_03e423f973_b.jpg
Nikon FE - Voigtlander Nokton 58mm f1.4 SL II S by Senior Frog, on Flickr
There are too many good ones out there for little money to deal with one that needs fixin.
I unloaded an FE2 because it started to act up.
I just took inventory of my film camera bodies. 80. And I just recently sold 8! I need to get rid of a bunch, this has become, umm, worrying...
80 film camera bodies?! Good lord, Huss, save some for the rest of us!
Except that last part never happens.
I'm nowhere remotely near 80 film bodies but, after believing for a year that an M4 was the only film body I needed (or wanted), I've recently succumbed to Pen FT & FV mania and, as I sit writing this post, I'm waiting for the DHL guy to drop off a Canon 7S.
Mar 17, 2021 at 06:27 PM
p.837 #13Post your recent film shots!
I'm sorry in advance if this is too much of a derail, but what filter systems do you all use? I only need a 3 stop grad ND, and while I am flexible on the price, I am hell-bent on avoiding color casts. It will be used on a 6x7 camera with a 110 mm lens or longer, not on a wide angle lens.
Mar 17, 2021 at 06:48 PM
p.837 #14Post your recent film shots!
Desmolicious wrote:
Especially love the first one. The OOF foreground really works.
Thanks. I wasn't sure at the time how it would turn out, but I'm glad I went for it.
helimat wrote
67 + 105/2.4 + Portra 800Thanks. I wasn't sure at the time how it would turn out, but I'm glad I went for it.
Mar 17, 2021 at 07:21 PM
p.837 #15Post your recent film shots!
theHUN wrote:
I'm sorry in advance if this is too much of a derail, but what filter systems do you all use? I only need a 3 stop grad ND, and while I am flexible on the price, I am hell-bent on avoiding color casts. It will be used on a 6x7 camera with a 110 mm lens or longer, not on a wide angle lens.
I've used the Singh-Ray grad ND's for years. Pricey, but decent quality. No colour cast that I have noticed... It seems the price of used grad filters has come down as a lot of the digital only folks have gone to image blending in PS, so there's a good chance you'll find something for a decent price. Good luck!
I'm sorry in advance if this is too much of a derail, but what filter systems do you all use? I only need a 3 stop grad ND, and while I am flexible on the price, I am hell-bent on avoiding color casts. It will be used on a 6x7 camera with a 110 mm lens or longer, not on a wide angle lens.
I've used the Singh-Ray grad ND's for years. Pricey, but decent quality. No colour cast that I have noticed... It seems the price of used grad filters has come down as a lot of the digital only folks have gone to image blending in PS, so there's a good chance you'll find something for a decent price. Good luck!
Mar 17, 2021 at 07:24 PM
p.837 #17Post your recent film shots!
Desmolicious wrote:
I developed in Cinestill Df96 with the continuous agitation method (~80°F) which resulted in reticulation. I think I will stick with the standard minimal agitation method as I've had very good luck with that particular method and not getting reticulated negatives.
Also, I shot this on a Nikon FE that a coworker let me borrow. He said I could make him an offer on the camera if I'd like. It's very clean and has been well kept since he purchased it in 1983. The only issue I've noticed is that one of the shutter speeds (likely near 1/1000) isn't accurate as I'm seeing black horizontal bands on the bottom half of some of the negatives/photos. I'm trying to factor in the extra cost associated with sending the camera out for a CLA. Would anyone know of a good source to send out a FE for a CLA?
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51045608756_33b8b5a9da_b.jpg
Nikon FE - Voigtlander Nokton 58mm f1.4 SL II S by Senior Frog, on Flickr
Example of one of a few pictures where the shutter is out of sync.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51045623911_03e423f973_b.jpg
Nikon FE - Voigtlander Nokton 58mm f1.4 SL II S by Senior Frog, on FlickrShutter issues on a $100 camera? Honestly I'd pass on it, it looks like other electrical issues may be occurring.
There are too many good ones out there for little money to deal with one that needs fixin.
I unloaded an FE2 because it started to act up.Thank you Huss! It’s a fun little camera to shoot. It’s a shame about the shutter though. I’m guessing the cost of CLA would be about the same or more than another FE then? Bummer. Oh well, at least I captured some fun shots with it. I've got perfectly good Nikon Fm and FM2n which are - dare I say it - more fun to use than a broken FE. Just happen to be unloading them (along with about 60-70 other cameras, I kid you not...) I give u good price because I like your hat!
I just took inventory of my film camera bodies. 80. And I just recently sold 8! I need to get rid of a bunch, this has become, umm, worrying...
I have the FM3A, as you’ve seen, but I wouldn’t mind seeing your list of different cameras you have for sale. As for the hat, that company was one of our customers when I worked in Torrance. Those were some busy, but also fun times!
Alpha_Geist wrote
Desmolicious wrote
Alpha_Geist wrote
Ilford HP5 Plus 400 w/ Orange filterI developed in Cinestill Df96 with the continuous agitation method (~80°F) which resulted in reticulation. I think I will stick with the standard minimal agitation method as I've had very good luck with that particular method and not getting reticulated negatives.
Also, I shot this on a Nikon FE that a coworker let me borrow. He said I could make him an offer on the camera if I'd like. It's very clean and has been well kept since he purchased it in 1983. The only issue I've noticed is that one of the shutter speeds (likely near 1/1000) isn't accurate as I'm seeing black horizontal bands on the bottom half of some of the negatives/photos. I'm trying to factor in the extra cost associated with sending the camera out for a CLA. Would anyone know of a good source to send out a FE for a CLA?
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51045608756_33b8b5a9da_b.jpg
Nikon FE - Voigtlander Nokton 58mm f1.4 SL II S by Senior Frog, on Flickr
Example of one of a few pictures where the shutter is out of sync.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51045623911_03e423f973_b.jpg
Nikon FE - Voigtlander Nokton 58mm f1.4 SL II S by Senior Frog, on Flickr
There are too many good ones out there for little money to deal with one that needs fixin.
I unloaded an FE2 because it started to act up.
I just took inventory of my film camera bodies. 80. And I just recently sold 8! I need to get rid of a bunch, this has become, umm, worrying...
I have the FM3A, as you’ve seen, but I wouldn’t mind seeing your list of different cameras you have for sale. As for the hat, that company was one of our customers when I worked in Torrance. Those were some busy, but also fun times!
Mar 17, 2021 at 07:30 PM
p.837 #18Post your recent film shots!
helimat wrote:
I've used the Singh-Ray grad ND's for years. Pricey, but decent quality. No colour cast that I have noticed... It seems the price of used grad filters has come down as a lot of the digital only folks have gone to image blending in PS, so there's a good chance you'll find something for a decent price. Good luck!
I’ve been looking for a filter akin to sun glasses (with the warm colored lenses). I have a pair of prescription sunglasses that I use when driving and I love how they warm everything up while increasing contrast. Is there a filter out there that can do that? I’ve heard of Singh-Ray (blue & gold or something like that) filters, but never had an opportunity to see one in person and try in-store to determine if it’s something like my sun glasses. Is Singh-Ray the closest I can get to putting a warm pair of sunglasses on my lens? I would love to use something like that on my color negative film. Almost like a skylight filter, but warmer and with increased contrast and a CPL-like property to it.
theHUN wrote
I'm sorry in advance if this is too much of a derail, but what filter systems do you all use? I only need a 3 stop grad ND, and while I am flexible on the price, I am hell-bent on avoiding color casts. It will be used on a 6x7 camera with a 110 mm lens or longer, not on a wide angle lens.I’ve been looking for a filter akin to sun glasses (with the warm colored lenses). I have a pair of prescription sunglasses that I use when driving and I love how they warm everything up while increasing contrast. Is there a filter out there that can do that? I’ve heard of Singh-Ray (blue & gold or something like that) filters, but never had an opportunity to see one in person and try in-store to determine if it’s something like my sun glasses. Is Singh-Ray the closest I can get to putting a warm pair of sunglasses on my lens? I would love to use something like that on my color negative film. Almost like a skylight filter, but warmer and with increased contrast and a CPL-like property to it.
Mar 17, 2021 at 07:36 PM
p.837 #19Post your recent film shots!
fjablo wrote:
Some more recent re-scans.
these look amazingly 3d!!
Some more recent re-scans.
these look amazingly 3d!!
Mar 17, 2021 at 08:49 PM
p.837 #20Post your recent film shots!
Alpha_Geist wrote:
I've used the Singh-Ray grad ND's for years. Pricey, but decent quality. No colour cast that I have noticed... It seems the price of used grad filters has come down as a lot of the digital only folks have gone to image blending in PS, so there's a good chance you'll find something for a decent price. Good luck!I’ve been looking for a filter akin to sun glasses (with the warm colored lenses). I have a pair of prescription sunglasses that I use when driving and I love how they warm everything up while increasing contrast. Is there a filter out there that can do that? I’ve heard of Singh-Ray (blue & gold or something like that) filters, but never had an opportunity to see one in person and try in-store to determine if it’s something like my sun glasses. Is Singh-Ray the closest I can get to putting a warm pair of sunglasses on my lens? I...Show more →
Yes, that's another product they have that induces a colour cast purposely. Unfortunately, I haven't tried one, as they are quite expensive for a niche product. I would like to though I do have a Moose Peterson Warming circular polarizer that I've had for years - I've been meaning to try it on film. That would be similar to your sunglasses I think, and much, much less expensive.
helimat wrote
theHUN wrote
I'm sorry in advance if this is too much of a derail, but what filter systems do you all use? I only need a 3 stop grad ND, and while I am flexible on the price, I am hell-bent on avoiding color casts. It will be used on a 6x7 camera with a 110 mm lens or longer, not on a wide angle lens.Yes, that's another product they have that induces a colour cast purposely. Unfortunately, I haven't tried one, as they are quite expensive for a niche product. I would like to though
I do have a Moose Peterson Warming circular polarizer that I've had for years - I've been meaning to try it on film. That would be similar to your sunglasses I think, and much, much less expensive. Mar 17, 2021 at 09:47 PM