Post your recent film shots!
p.807 #1Post your recent film shots!
beardedspoooon wrote:
Nikon S2, 5cm/1.4, Ilford Delta 3200 scanned with the plustek 8200i.
Rescanning old negatives. Sort of fun.
Nice, I've rescanned some negs from the pre digital age. And was really surprised as to how much detail was there, as the prints from that era were so bad!
Nikon S2, 5cm/1.4, Ilford Delta 3200 scanned with the plustek 8200i.
Rescanning old negatives. Sort of fun.
Nice, I've rescanned some negs from the pre digital age. And was really surprised as to how much detail was there, as the prints from that era were so bad!
Oct 27, 2020 at 03:55 PM
p.807 #3Post your recent film shots!
Desmolicious wrote:
Love those shots Earl!
Which Summicron did u use for the Ford Falcon (?) shot?
thanks man, I only own the 50mm collapsible summicron.
Love those shots Earl!
Which Summicron did u use for the Ford Falcon (?) shot?
thanks man, I only own the 50mm collapsible summicron.
Oct 28, 2020 at 07:25 AM
p.807 #4Post your recent film shots!
taemo wrote:
Which Summicron did u use for the Ford Falcon (?) shot?thanks man, I only own the 50mm collapsible summicron.
Nice! I have that one too. The only thing I don't like about it is the extra resistance due to the locking mechanism when it gets close to infinity. Those lenses are so much better built than the new stuff.
I like the flare in the shot!
Huss
Desmolicious wrote
Love those shots Earl!Which Summicron did u use for the Ford Falcon (?) shot?
Nice! I have that one too. The only thing I don't like about it is the extra resistance due to the locking mechanism when it gets close to infinity. Those lenses are so much better built than the new stuff.
I like the flare in the shot!
Huss
Oct 28, 2020 at 10:00 AM
p.807 #6Post your recent film shots!
First photo from a old 5x7 Kodak 2D developed in a pretty much exhausted Df96 monobath but I kinda like the look after post processing. The second from a Bronica EC-TL with fresh developer. Both HP5 and window light.
Edited on Oct 30, 2020 at 05:37 AM · View previous versions
Edited on Oct 30, 2020 at 05:37 AM · View previous versions
Oct 28, 2020 at 04:58 PM
p.807 #8Post your recent film shots!
Minolta 600 si - Fuji Reala
Sans titre by LT. Z, sur Flickr
Sans titre by LT. Z, sur FlickrOct 30, 2020 at 02:32 AM
p.807 #9Post your recent film shots!
Taken with Kodak 2D 5x7, Paragon anastigmat 7 1/2 inch, HP5 developed in Df95 monobath. I found and easy way of developing 5x7 using a light tent with a 5x7 tray within a 8x10 tray in case of spillage. The monobath makes it simple and has good results if you only have 1 or 2.
Oct 31, 2020 at 11:10 AM
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p.807 #12Post your recent film shots!
Alpha_Geist wrote:
This leads to my question on pre washing. Do you pre wash prior to development at all, or only for certain film stocks? I mainly shot TMAX 400TMY(?) and was told to always pre wash the film before developing, and have been doing so for all my films. I do recall seeing a bluish/purple dye when washing TMAX though.
IIRC (it's been almost 20 years), I eventually prewashed TMAX film due to the residual purple tint to the film base that sometimes didn't come out after fixing (IIRC it depended on the freshness of the fixer?). I may also have prewashed Agfa APX.... IIRC, compared to other films it had a stronger tendency to get pinholes even with standard agitation for 5-10 seconds every minute.
I'm in an environment where tap water is rarely too warm. I recall way, way back when I was pretty new to home processing, that I did a batch of Tri-X and washed it with straight out of the tap cold water... in the middle of winter. Massive reticulation, haha.
This leads to my question on pre washing. Do you pre wash prior to development at all, or only for certain film stocks? I mainly shot TMAX 400TMY(?) and was told to always pre wash the film before developing, and have been doing so for all my films. I do recall seeing a bluish/purple dye when washing TMAX though.
IIRC (it's been almost 20 years), I eventually prewashed TMAX film due to the residual purple tint to the film base that sometimes didn't come out after fixing (IIRC it depended on the freshness of the fixer?). I may also have prewashed Agfa APX.... IIRC, compared to other films it had a stronger tendency to get pinholes even with standard agitation for 5-10 seconds every minute.
I'm in an environment where tap water is rarely too warm. I recall way, way back when I was pretty new to home processing, that I did a batch of Tri-X and washed it with straight out of the tap cold water... in the middle of winter. Massive reticulation, haha.
Nov 01, 2020 at 10:35 AM
p.807 #14Post your recent film shots!
Humihiro wrote:
Rolleicord vb
Foma 100
Like it, spooky!
Rolleicord vb
Foma 100
Like it, spooky!
Nov 01, 2020 at 01:13 PM
p.807 #15Post your recent film shots!
rscheffler wrote:
IIRC (it's been almost 20 years), I eventually prewashed TMAX film due to the residual purple tint to the film base that sometimes didn't come out after fixing (IIRC it depended on the freshness of the fixer?). I may also have prewashed Agfa APX.... IIRC, compared to other films it had a stronger tendency to get pinholes even with standard agitation for 5-10 seconds every minute.
I'm in an environment where tap water is rarely too warm. I recall way, way back when I was pretty new to home processing, that I did a batch of Tri-X and washed it with...Show more →
So reticulation can occur on both extreme ends of the temperature spectrum then, correct? I believe I had too warm of a wash and you had too cold of a wash.
I recall the first time I developed color film (C-41) and was pleasantly surprised on how easy it was to develop compared to black and white, especially with regards to temperature. It was easy and quick for me to get the developer and subsequent blix/stab up to temperature than cooling the developer and baths to a lower 20 deg Celsius for b&w. I almost always have to have a bucket of ice to bring the temperature down for my black and white developing.
Alpha_Geist wrote
This leads to my question on pre washing. Do you pre wash prior to development at all, or only for certain film stocks? I mainly shot TMAX 400TMY(?) and was told to always pre wash the film before developing, and have been doing so for all my films. I do recall seeing a bluish/purple dye when washing TMAX though.I'm in an environment where tap water is rarely too warm. I recall way, way back when I was pretty new to home processing, that I did a batch of Tri-X and washed it with...Show more →
So reticulation can occur on both extreme ends of the temperature spectrum then, correct? I believe I had too warm of a wash and you had too cold of a wash.
I recall the first time I developed color film (C-41) and was pleasantly surprised on how easy it was to develop compared to black and white, especially with regards to temperature. It was easy and quick for me to get the developer and subsequent blix/stab up to temperature than cooling the developer and baths to a lower 20 deg Celsius for b&w. I almost always have to have a bucket of ice to bring the temperature down for my black and white developing.
Nov 01, 2020 at 01:31 PM
p.807 #18Post your recent film shots!
taemo wrote:
was motivated enough to scan some films (DSLR + NLP)
Love the shot of Fisherman's Wharf! Although I may be biased, I live & work within a 5 minute walk from there
was motivated enough to scan some films (DSLR + NLP)
Love the shot of Fisherman's Wharf! Although I may be biased, I live & work within a 5 minute walk from there
Nov 03, 2020 at 08:39 PM
p.807 #19Post your recent film shots!
helimat wrote:
Love the shot of Fisherman's Wharf! Although I may be biased, I live & work within a 5 minute walk from there
thanks man, you sure live in a really nice island!
looking forward going back there again next year.
taemo wrote
was motivated enough to scan some films (DSLR + NLP)thanks man, you sure live in a really nice island!
looking forward going back there again next year.
Nov 04, 2020 at 10:25 AM
