It just reminds us that a camera is just a light-tight box with film on one end & maybe a lens on the other
I was going to do test shots for light-tite check but ended up just doing bright light in the dark.
Since I was headed to Yosemite, this was an excellent field test opportunity.
Though it currently is a 1 lens solution w/90mm, have already thought of a way to make it a 2 lens kit with a different length body piece.
Still very light by comparison to the Toyo.
Since going the "weight weenie" route, looking for a reasonably priced light meter that is much smaller/lighter than the Sekonic.
BTW, like you color shots. Your'e not timid about the processing either. I just got a color kit from CineStill that I'm going to have to get comfortable with
That's a mighty fine shot, Dan. Especially considering it's HANDHELD large format. Is that from Glacier Point? I hope the skies in October will be that cooperative. I'm starting to lay in my film and such even though it's still a few months off.
Since the body size was for a 60mm lens, I had to add a spacer about 10-12mm to get it right for the 90mm
Now here's the sketchy part for some.
While the seller showed different item prices, he didn't set up the listing to buy to those choices.
So when he agreed to sell just the parts I wanted, he asked me to pay the whole amount, $239+ shipping, then he would refund me the $145. I hesitated but read his feedback, how long he was around & took the chance.
My PayPal account was refunded the proper amount in <24 hours.
BTW, it does come with a ground glass insert that latches in nicely.
I can dig up the spreadsheet with measurements, etc.
For any LF lens you would use, there are specs for infinity focus from back of glass, etc.
I can get you the link.
Since this was for the 90mm, I only had to add 10-12mm.
If you want to use a 150 (50equiv), you would have to have a longer center section.
I prototyped it up to take measurements & check focus.
I am going to make up a different center section for my 150, but that's more work.
Hey, Dan, if you're able to meet up in October, I'll most definitely be interested in checking out this rig of yours. Seeing that pic you posted almost tempts me to pack the Crown Graphic along.
Since the body size was for a 60mm lens, I had to add a spacer about 10-12mm to get it right for the 90mm
Now here's the sketchy part for some.
While the seller showed different item prices, he didn't set up the listing to buy to those choices.
So when he agreed to sell just the parts I wanted, he asked me to pay the whole amount, $239+ shipping, then he would refund me the $145. I hesitated but read his feedback, how long he was around & took the chance.
My PayPal account was refunded the proper amount in <24 hours.
BTW, it does come with a ground glass insert that latches in nicely.
I can dig up the spreadsheet with measurements, etc.
For any LF lens you would use, there are specs for infinity focus from back of glass, etc.
I can get you the link.
Since this was for the 90mm, I only had to add 10-12mm.
If you want to use a 150 (50equiv), you would have to have a longer center section.
I prototyped it up to take measurements & check focus.
I am going to make up a different center section for my 150, but that's more work.
Jon Buffington wrote:
Huss, how do you like that 35-70 rokkor?
Hey Jon. It is a shockingly good lens. For very little money.
Even though I have an MD 58 1.2 , the 35-70 is attached to my XK about 95% of the time.
I have the version before they added the macro functionality. The one to avoid, apparently , is the first version.
Desmolicious wrote:
Hey Jon. It is a shockingly good lens. For very little money.
Even though I have an MD 58 1.2 , the 35-70 is attached to my XK about 95% of the time.
I have the version before they added the macro functionality. The one to avoid, apparently , is the first version.
I have the AF version that is attached to my maxxum 7k (it is f4) but rarely use that camera. I like my xd-11, 101 and 102's much better. I may have to pick one of these up.
I'm really liking your treatment of the HP5. Seems more contrasty than my lab gives it to me. I'd love to develop myself but my wife would shoot me... Great work regardless.
Hey, Jon, I like your Guadualupe shots. I walked the trail last fall hoping for some of the much touted fall color. Alas, it had been too hot and there just wasn't much color to be seen. I did manage to turn an ankle down in the bed of the wash.
Kenny
ps I need to get back out there this summer...there's a shot of El Capitan I'm dying to try with large format. Won't even require much hiking either.
rico wrote:
Wow, an XK shooter! Color me impressed.
Butt wait, there's more!
Minolta XK, 35-70 3.5, Portra 400, played with in LR.
An ode to global warming...
I use my Minolta XK with both the AE and AE-S heads. The AE one is the original CDS celled metered head that makes the camera look like Herman Munster. So ugly I love it, and so unique too.
The AE-S head was the 'improved' design using SPD cells. Physically it is less imposing, and thus IMO lost some of the original character. But the SPD cells allow it to react to light quicker thus making it "better". It is also about a stop more sensitive. The AE-S head is much harder and more expensive to find.
So why do I prefer the old style Herman head? Several reasons:
1/ You see the entire shutter speed scale at the same time. Sounds simple enough, no? But the AE-S head shows about half of them at any time, you need to flip a switch between them.
2/ The AE head's shutter speed scale is very legible and very easy to read in most lighting conditions. The AE-S head's LEDs are invisible in bright light, and blind out the read out in dim light.
3/ Switching to manual exposure mode, the AE head uses simple and very effective match needle metering. The AE-S head shows a mechanical actual shutter speed read out in a tiny window in the top right corner of the vf, which you then need to match with the lit LED in the main read out.
4/ The AE head has an Auto Exposure Overide Control switch which allows you to seamlessly dial in exposure compensation while looking through the VF. Once you let go of it, it reverts back to the standard exposure. The AE-S head replaces that with an exposure compensation dial. Problem is there is no indication of it in the VF, so if you forget to change it back...
And now the advantages of the AE-S head:
1/ Film speed setting is harder to accidentally change.
2/ 3 position meter on switch - off, always on w/ no LEDs in VF (saves battery life), always on. The AE head has ON or OFF. Both use the sensor switch on the front of the camera.
For me, the advantages of the old AE head by far outway those of the AE-S head.
Desmolicious wrote:
For me, the advantages of the old AE head by far outway those of the AE-S head.
I agree the AE head gives the XK a special impact, but didn't realize the superior analog readout. Rumor says the XK meters have suffered the ravages of time. Are working samples hard to find?
rico wrote:
I agree the AE head gives the XK a special impact, but didn't realize the superior analog readout. Rumor says the XK meters have suffered the ravages of time. Are working samples hard to find?
I haven't seen any issues with the meters, I have always had accurate exposures in all conditions. The problems I have seen have been with the bodies, those can go flaky and have inaccurate shutters. As those are controlled electronically it is a very hard fix if you can find anyone to do the work. It seems that the flaky cameras may have been miss-treated/improperly stored/got wet. The one I tried to fix I could not budge the screws on the body, nor could the repair shop! Signs of internal corrosion due to the camera having become wet.
Forgot to address this bit:
"Are working samples hard to find?"
These are old cameras but very well made. If it works, it works so make sure you have a return policy if you get one. Many sellers, as with all old gear, will claim they don't know if it works/do not have a battery (they use regular 1.5v button cells!) etc etc. The risk is the same as with any old gear.
Mamiya C330S with 80/2.8 lens and Franka Solida II folder with Schneider Xenar lens (image 3 and 4) - all images taken on Ekta 100 and scanned in with a Nikon Coolscan 9000
The wife and I took a road trip on memorial weekend, our first stop just happened to be Fort Donelson National Cemetary. Fitting for the weekend. Leica M5, canon 50/1.8 ltm, triX, d-76 1:1, pakon scan.
