Post your recent film shots!
Aug 16, 2016 at 05:15 AM
p.622 #2Post your recent film shots!
nicoimages wrote:
Thank you - really like the Pakon scans - so hard to find the scanner at a reasonable price. Do you have to do a lot of PP to the output to correct colour or do the inbuilt profiles work well enough?The baked in profiles are fantastic. If I do any adjusting, it is WB and that is primarily due to shooting in shade/evening. Also sometimes sloppy in my developing so get that magenta cast from bad temps/expired chems. However when I am doing it correctly, no correction needed. You can also do the correction in the PSI software so really working at that point with the raw file. I forget this though and do simple edits in LR (black/white point setting, little bit sharpening and that is it).
The pakon is really a joy to use. I got mine (plus model) back when they were $250. Nowhere near that now. The non plus though can use the TLX client software and get the same rez files, just a tad slower (the plus can use the PSI software, a little less clunky than TLX). If you like to shoot a lot of 35mm, it really is worth the money. I can scan a weeks worth of film in under a half hour with minimal to no post processing compared to what would take all day on a flatbed plus lots of color correction.Great to hear that - does it have a profile for Ektar 100 - as this is the film I love to use and is the most challenging to colour correct particularly in the shadows.
Same here. I've seen a lot of nice stuff from other people with their Ektar, but I just can't seem to get the colors looking right.
Jon Buffington wrote
nicoimages wrote
Jon Buffington wrote
Very nice Gary and Nicholas!The pakon is really a joy to use. I got mine (plus model) back when they were $250. Nowhere near that now. The non plus though can use the TLX client software and get the same rez files, just a tad slower (the plus can use the PSI software, a little less clunky than TLX). If you like to shoot a lot of 35mm, it really is worth the money. I can scan a weeks worth of film in under a half hour with minimal to no post processing compared to what would take all day on a flatbed plus lots of color correction.
Same here. I've seen a lot of nice stuff from other people with their Ektar, but I just can't seem to get the colors looking right.
Aug 16, 2016 at 10:04 AM
p.622 #3Post your recent film shots!
arduluth wrote:
Thank you - really like the Pakon scans - so hard to find the scanner at a reasonable price. Do you have to do a lot of PP to the output to correct colour or do the inbuilt profiles work well enough?The baked in profiles are fantastic. If I do any adjusting, it is WB and that is primarily due to shooting in shade/evening. Also sometimes sloppy in my developing so get that magenta cast from bad temps/expired chems. However when I am doing it correctly, no correction needed. You can also do the correction in the PSI software so really working at that point with the raw file. I forget this though and do simple edits in LR (black/white point setting, little bit sharpening and that is it).
The pakon is really a joy to use. I got mine (plus model) back when they were $250. Nowhere near that now. The non plus though can use the TLX client software and get the same rez files, just a tad slower (the plus can use the PSI software, a little less clunky than TLX). If you like to shoot a lot of 35mm, it really is worth the money. I can scan a weeks worth of film in under a half hour with minimal to no post processing compared to what would take all day on a flatbed plus lots of color correction.Great to hear that - does it have a profile for Ektar 100 - as this is the film I love to use and is the most challenging to colour correct particularly in the shadows.Same here. I've seen a lot of nice stuff from other people with their Ektar, but I just can't seem to get the colors looking right.
The trick lies in the white balance setting of the digitized negative. I found out about it after I printed directly from one of my Ektar 100 film negatives using the RA-4 process. Color looked fantastic and realistic in the print, but the digitized photo didn't look right at the time. I managed to get an equivalent looking digital image by setting first the black point and then a white point in one digitized negative after channel inversion. I saved this obtained curve and applied it to the remaining Ektar 100 negatives of the same film. You can still slightly adjust by setting the grey point if available in the image and by using the Hue/Saturation tool for each color channel. The correct grey point setting is needed to avoid too much of a bluish cast in the shadows as shown below.
nicoimages wrote
Jon Buffington wrote
nicoimages wrote
Jon Buffington wrote
Very nice Gary and Nicholas!The pakon is really a joy to use. I got mine (plus model) back when they were $250. Nowhere near that now. The non plus though can use the TLX client software and get the same rez files, just a tad slower (the plus can use the PSI software, a little less clunky than TLX). If you like to shoot a lot of 35mm, it really is worth the money. I can scan a weeks worth of film in under a half hour with minimal to no post processing compared to what would take all day on a flatbed plus lots of color correction.
The trick lies in the white balance setting of the digitized negative. I found out about it after I printed directly from one of my Ektar 100 film negatives using the RA-4 process. Color looked fantastic and realistic in the print, but the digitized photo didn't look right at the time. I managed to get an equivalent looking digital image by setting first the black point and then a white point in one digitized negative after channel inversion. I saved this obtained curve and applied it to the remaining Ektar 100 negatives of the same film. You can still slightly adjust by setting the grey point if available in the image and by using the Hue/Saturation tool for each color channel. The correct grey point setting is needed to avoid too much of a bluish cast in the shadows as shown below.
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Aug 16, 2016 at 12:09 PM
p.622 #4Post your recent film shots!
Thanks for your comments about Ektar - really like the Pakon scans of it Jon and Retrofocus. I also seem to be getting best results by scanning using the generic negative profile in Vuescan and then usually tweak the levels of the blue channel and the magenta shadows are gone.
A few images of Ektar100 scanned using that method are at my flickr stream - https://www.flickr.com/photos/nico1974/
Rolleiflex T - Rollei 80S with yellow filter developed with XTOL stock for 6:30min
Really like the extended red sensitivity, non existent grain and tonality of this film and how easy it is to get dark skies with a yellow filter.
White Towers by Nicholas T, on Flickr
Old Street Roundabout by Nicholas T, on Flickr
Barbican Tower by Nicholas T, on Flickr
Funnel by Nicholas T, on Flickr
Old Street by Nicholas T, on Flickr
Old Street by Nicholas T, on Flickr
A few images of Ektar100 scanned using that method are at my flickr stream - https://www.flickr.com/photos/nico1974/
Rolleiflex T - Rollei 80S with yellow filter developed with XTOL stock for 6:30min
Really like the extended red sensitivity, non existent grain and tonality of this film and how easy it is to get dark skies with a yellow filter.
White Towers by Nicholas T, on FlickrOld Street Roundabout by Nicholas T, on FlickrBarbican Tower by Nicholas T, on FlickrFunnel by Nicholas T, on FlickrOld Street by Nicholas T, on FlickrOld Street by Nicholas T, on FlickrAug 16, 2016 at 03:18 PM
p.622 #5Post your recent film shots!
nicoimages wrote:
Rolleiflex T - Rollei 80S with yellow filter developed with XTOL stock for 6:30min
Really like the extended red sensitivity, non existent grain and tonality of this film and how easy it is to get dark skies with a yellow filter.
Wow I've been meaning to try some but I messed it up in my RZ, I'll prob use it in my Rollei or Mamiya 7. Just need to go out. Have you tried the 400s one?
Rolleiflex T - Rollei 80S with yellow filter developed with XTOL stock for 6:30min
Really like the extended red sensitivity, non existent grain and tonality of this film and how easy it is to get dark skies with a yellow filter.
Wow I've been meaning to try some but I messed it up in my RZ, I'll prob use it in my Rollei or Mamiya 7. Just need to go out. Have you tried the 400s one?
Aug 16, 2016 at 05:13 PM
p.622 #6Post your recent film shots!
nicoimages wrote:
Thanks for your comments about Ektar - really like the Pakon scans of it Jon and Retrofocus. I also seem to be getting best results by scanning using the generic negative profile in Vuescan and then usually tweak the levels of the blue channel and the magenta shadows are gone.
A few images of Ektar100 scanned using that method are at my flickr stream - https://www.flickr.com/photos/nico1974/
Rolleiflex T - Rollei 80S with yellow filter developed with XTOL stock for 6:30min
Really like the extended red sensitivity, non existent grain and tonality of this film and how easy it is to get dark skies...Show more →
Wow, that sold me on trying some. Those look great! I would not have guessed you used a yellow filter with that sky.
Thanks for your comments about Ektar - really like the Pakon scans of it Jon and Retrofocus. I also seem to be getting best results by scanning using the generic negative profile in Vuescan and then usually tweak the levels of the blue channel and the magenta shadows are gone.
A few images of Ektar100 scanned using that method are at my flickr stream - https://www.flickr.com/photos/nico1974/
Rolleiflex T - Rollei 80S with yellow filter developed with XTOL stock for 6:30min
Really like the extended red sensitivity, non existent grain and tonality of this film and how easy it is to get dark skies...Show more →
Wow, that sold me on trying some. Those look great! I would not have guessed you used a yellow filter with that sky.
Aug 16, 2016 at 06:19 PM
p.622 #7Post your recent film shots!
I agree, fantastic BW work! I will have to try some of the retro 80
Aug 16, 2016 at 07:42 PM
p.622 #8Post your recent film shots!
Nico, some nice work as usual. You do find some great comps!
Dan
Dan
Aug 16, 2016 at 10:00 PM
p.622 #9Post your recent film shots!
Thank you all for your lovely comments. I have also tried the Rollei Reto 400S that has very nice tonality too but found that it is more of a ISO200 film and has less red sensitivity than the 80S.
I have not tried the ISO200 version yet (Rollei Superpan 200) that is supposed to be very similar to the 80S.
I also took a few images with Acros 100 in XTOL stock - 7:30min on the same day again with a yellow filter and the Rolleiflex T - the tonality is very different compared to the Rollei 80S and the skies look brighter.
2016-08-17-0007 by Nicholas T, on Flickr
2016-08-17-0008-Edit by Nicholas T, on Flickr
2016-08-17-0002 by Nicholas T, on Flickr
I have not tried the ISO200 version yet (Rollei Superpan 200) that is supposed to be very similar to the 80S.
I also took a few images with Acros 100 in XTOL stock - 7:30min on the same day again with a yellow filter and the Rolleiflex T - the tonality is very different compared to the Rollei 80S and the skies look brighter.
2016-08-17-0007 by Nicholas T, on Flickr2016-08-17-0008-Edit by Nicholas T, on Flickr2016-08-17-0002 by Nicholas T, on FlickrAug 17, 2016 at 04:40 PM
p.622 #10Post your recent film shots!
nicoimages wrote:
Thank you all for your lovely comments. I have also tried the Rollei Reto 400S that has very nice tonality too but found that it is more of a ISO200 film and has less red sensitivity than the 80S.
I have not tried the ISO200 version yet (Rollei Superpan 200) that is supposed to be very similar to the 80S.
I also took a few images with Acros 100 in XTOL stock - 7:30min on the same day again with a yellow filter and the Rolleiflex T - the tonality is very different compared to the Rollei 80S and the skies...Show more →
That is surprising, but very telling. I think if I have to shoot anything daylight, I will go with the Rollei film. It looks great with the Yellow filter.
Thank you all for your lovely comments. I have also tried the Rollei Reto 400S that has very nice tonality too but found that it is more of a ISO200 film and has less red sensitivity than the 80S.
I have not tried the ISO200 version yet (Rollei Superpan 200) that is supposed to be very similar to the 80S.
I also took a few images with Acros 100 in XTOL stock - 7:30min on the same day again with a yellow filter and the Rolleiflex T - the tonality is very different compared to the Rollei 80S and the skies...Show more →
That is surprising, but very telling. I think if I have to shoot anything daylight, I will go with the Rollei film. It looks great with the Yellow filter.
Aug 17, 2016 at 04:50 PM
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p.622 #11Post your recent film shots!
Bugigattolo by Adam Maas, on Flickr
X-700, MD Celtic 28/2.8 (55mm)
I was pretty impressed by the performance of this cheap little 28.
Aug 19, 2016 at 05:39 AM
p.622 #12Post your recent film shots!
I too have the celtic 28/2.8 and I agree, a stellar lens for sure.
Aug 20, 2016 at 11:44 AM
p.622 #13Post your recent film shots!
From 2012, Fujichrome Velvia 50, Zeiss Ikon + ZM 50/2
120803B21 by edward karaa, on Flickr
120803B21 by edward karaa, on FlickrAug 20, 2016 at 11:55 AM
p.622 #15Post your recent film shots!
Portra 400, leica iiif, summitar, unicolor c-41, pakon f135+
I didn't know if this roll would work. My 9 month old overgrown puppy who is into everything stole this roll and chewed it up. The canister was smashed in and teeth marks all over it. Not sure if there would be light leaks or not. Trimmed the leader which was covered in dog slobber and loaded it in the old barnack. It worked.
I didn't know if this roll would work. My 9 month old overgrown puppy who is into everything stole this roll and chewed it up. The canister was smashed in and teeth marks all over it. Not sure if there would be light leaks or not. Trimmed the leader which was covered in dog slobber and loaded it in the old barnack. It worked.
Aug 21, 2016 at 10:40 AM
p.622 #16Post your recent film shots!
From an evening walk in the woods during a light rain. Kentmere 400 at 800, developed in ID-11, pakon f135+ scan. This was I believe a Nikon FM with 35.2.5 series E.
Aug 21, 2016 at 10:52 AM
p.622 #17Post your recent film shots!
Jon Buffington wrote:
Fantastic!
Thank you very much Jon!
It's amazing how resilient film is. If it was an SD card that your dog chewed on, I'm pretty sure it would have been unusable
Great shots btw.
Fantastic!
Thank you very much Jon!
It's amazing how resilient film is. If it was an SD card that your dog chewed on, I'm pretty sure it would have been unusable
Great shots btw. Aug 21, 2016 at 10:57 AM
p.622 #18Post your recent film shots!
edwardkaraa wrote:
From 2012, Fujichrome Velvia 50, Zeiss Ikon + ZM 50/2
Very nice Edward; I always enjoy family groups...
Regards,
Edd
From 2012, Fujichrome Velvia 50, Zeiss Ikon + ZM 50/2
Very nice Edward; I always enjoy family groups...
Regards,
Edd
Aug 21, 2016 at 11:01 AM
p.622 #19Post your recent film shots!
roboticspro wrote:
Very nice Edward; I always enjoy family groups...
Regards,
Edd
Thanks a lot, Edd!!!
edwardkaraa wrote
From 2012, Fujichrome Velvia 50, Zeiss Ikon + ZM 50/2Regards,
Edd
Thanks a lot, Edd!!!
Aug 21, 2016 at 11:17 AM
p.622 #20Post your recent film shots!
Not sure if Tom is still viewing this thread but this is for him. portra 400, iiif, summitar
Aug 21, 2016 at 02:26 PM